To save a constant barrage of "what bike shall I buy?" posts, this post is intended to help guide you in the right direction initially before asking for more specific help if you need it.
--- Bikes on a Budget ----------------------------------
I'll start with the obvious places to look if you've got a tight budget. (Note: these are sites that I would use, if you know of any other sites, let me know and I'll add them!)
--- Join the Society ------------------------------------
Click here to join the Cyclists Society! We now have a Strava group! Join to connect with other cyclists from TSR. ----------------------------------------------------------
[This is very much a work in progress and welcome any and all suggestions to improve the information here.]
--- Anatomy of a Bike ----------------------------------
Currently sat on a plane post Tour of the Reservoir heading back to Bristol. I wasn't racing but doing motocam work for Eurosport. Very tough race. Yesterday we had periodic sleet and snow downpours which is never fun!
Women's racing is getting pretty damn good these days. The field this weekend was head and shoulders above the field from last year. Very competitive.
Anyone got a shock pump they can recommend? I may have a need for one for a new bike
I've got a rockshox one, I picked it up 2nd hand about 5 years ago, it was well used prior to me using it but is still going strong. To be honest though, they're a much for muchness. Shouldn't go far wrong with one branded by the big suspension brands though or same design at least.
Ignore most of the spec. Very little is original on my bike. The forks and frame are the main original parts. Seat, seatpost, stem, handlebars, gear shifters, brake rotors are original too. If you want to know the rest of the spec tell me and I'll let you know what I installed. Honestly not sure where I want to ride, hence why I need to look into MTBing. I guess with a FS I was thinking of taking jumps. Fork is biggest concern because, well, I'm not sure frame is cost effective to replace and they're nothing special.
Ignore most of the spec. Very little is original on my bike. The forks and frame are the main original parts. Seat, seatpost, stem, handlebars, gear shifters, brake rotors are original too. If you want to know the rest of the spec tell me and I'll let you know what I installed. Honestly not sure where I want to ride, hence why I need to look into MTBing. I guess with a FS I was thinking of taking jumps. Fork is biggest concern because, well, I'm not sure frame is cost effective to replace and they're nothing special.
Its a good, if heavy starting point if the newer model we have at work is anything to go by. I would take your current bike and just start exploring mtb trails etc, maybe not DH runs at Cwmcarn or Fort Will though But for general trail riding, single track, trail centres and smaller jumps or drops (1-2feet), start with that, get the technique right, learn where you want to go and then what needs to upgrade.
Hardtails teach you better control of the bike over rough stuff which a FS doesn't, not to mention, most places doesn't need FS in the UK, its just nice to have. Best thing is to go out for several rides until you learn where your current bike is holding you back, then you'll know what needs upgrading.
Anyone got a shock pump they can recommend? I may have a need for one for a new bike
It's worth getting a decent one as cheap ones do have a tendency to leak air. Also check the pump can reach the pressure you need. If it's for a fork generally 150psi is sufficient, but some shocks need 220+. A release button that lets a couple psi out at a time is handy. I'd agree with ouch's advice.
Its a good, if heavy starting point if the newer model we have at work is anything to go by. I would take your current bike and just start exploring mtb trails etc, maybe not DH runs at Cwmcarn or Fort Will though But for general trail riding, single track, trail centres and smaller jumps or drops (1-2feet), start with that, get the technique right, learn where you want to go and then what needs to upgrade.
Hardtails teach you better control of the bike over rough stuff which a FS doesn't, not to mention, most places doesn't need FS in the UK, its just nice to have. Best thing is to go out for several rides until you learn where your current bike is holding you back, then you'll know what needs upgrading.
A lot of weight in the original parts is in the bottom bracket, cranks, pedals, I found. Wheels to a degree. I have a deore chainset, nukeproof electron pedals, some DT Swiss wheels. Obviously the forks carry a bit more weight than better forks. Imagine the frame holds a bit too but by comparison I'd say my bike is considerably lighter than stock. Used bathroom scales to weigh it and it comes to a hair under 13kg, bearing in mind that has city tyres on. Not too bad considering, I'd say. Does that make much difference?
What do I need to know about saddle height and dry lube? Think my forks need servicing too.
A lot of weight in the original parts is in the bottom bracket, cranks, pedals, I found. Wheels to a degree. I have a deore chainset, nukeproof electron pedals, some DT Swiss wheels. Obviously the forks carry a bit more weight than better forks. Imagine the frame holds a bit too but by comparison I'd say my bike is considerably lighter than stock. Used bathroom scales to weigh it and it comes to a hair under 13kg, bearing in mind that has city tyres on. Not too bad considering, I'd say. Does that make much difference?
What do I need to know about saddle height and dry lube? Think my forks need servicing too.
The weight in wheels is more important though due to them being a fast rotating part. You will be surprised by just how much weight in in the frame and forks too.
saddle height, just go with what is comfortable and efficient for you. As for dry lube, each to their own on that really. Can't comment on the forks, but if you have mainly be using on roads/canal paths, then after 3/4 years I wouldn't be so sure they need servicing, but maybe you have higher standards than me
The weight in wheels is more important though due to them being a fast rotating part. You will be surprised by just how much weight in in the frame and forks too.
saddle height, just go with what is comfortable and efficient for you. As for dry lube, each to their own on that really. Can't comment on the forks, but if you have mainly be using on roads/canal paths, then after 3/4 years I wouldn't be so sure they need servicing, but maybe you have higher standards than me
Came across a GMBN vid and think I need to throw on some knobblies first. So I'll get some dry lube and throw on the knobblies before I give the trail another good go. I just did a bit of work on the forks because I think I mucked up the lockout a bit before. They seem a lot better, though I think I can permanently lock them out if I want to. Not sure if they need anything else doing. They did squeak a bit. Could possibly use a go of a shock pump(to reset the pressure if nothing else) but that will probably have to wait.
I also gave my chain a clean and threw on some wet lube to keep me going. Going to listen out for any problems. Not sure if the lube settled in enough or not. Might give my bb a look-see too.
Am I right in thinking you can get an adapter to fit in the cable routing of a frame, so you can run a full length outer gear cable instead on partial gear outer and partial exposed wire? Struggling to find the part and I can't think what it is called. May have been a few years ago?
Am I right in thinking you can get an adapter to fit in the cable routing of a frame, so you can run a full length outer gear cable instead on partial gear outer and partial exposed wire? Struggling to find the part and I can't think what it is called. May have been a few years ago?