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    (Original post by Iqbal007)
    http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007KTY4A...SIN=B007KTY4A6

    Get that motherboard instead it's cheaper than that, but also much more highly rated in reviews for it's performance.

    Look at Samsung f3 harddrives as well much better reliability.

    also have a look at other SSD's like these which have more space but also reliable http://www.ebuyer.com/268693-corsair...ssd-f120gb3-bk

    http://www.ebuyer.com/341349-kingsto...-svp200s3-120g

    http://www.ebuyer.com/266526-crucial...sd-ct128m4ssd2

    http://www.ebuyer.com/318420-samsung...-mz-7pc128n-eu this one is particular good


    Also that specific gtx 670 is a lot of power, heads up and your games will be capped in terms of fps so you won't get anymore out of SC2, plus that's stock cooler which I don'tl ike.
    Honestly I would never, ever go for an ASROCK board. They're a spin off of ASUS and whilst ASUS are decent, ASROCK are crap. The capacitors are sub-standard, RMA's are common and the returns process is horrific, not to mention the non-existent customer service.

    I'm sure many people have fine experiences with ASROCK boards but I've had 3 now, 2 have completely failed within 4 months (capacitor failures) and the other failed after 2 years (not sure why, but I'd still expect it to last longer than 2 years).

    The Corsairs really have very few issues with reliability. Like the Vertex OCZ drivers, the older versions had stability issues due to chipset drivers, but the new chipsets and drivers solve those issues. If the Samsung is cheaper then I'd go for it, it's a cracking drive, but it wasn't when I looked. Might be in some places though.

    The Crucial M4's are excellent and highly recommended, think they're a bit more expensive though. The Kingston drives (or Sandisk) are just **** from my experience, I wouldn't take them.

    Like I said with the 670, I only included the OC'd version because it's ~£15 cheaper than a stock clocked version. I'd go for one with a stock clock over it at standard prices. Also stock coolers are fine, there are no reasons to add an aftermarket cooler to a GPU for the vast vast majority of users......

    As for game caps, things like SC2 aren't capped at all unless you turn on Vsync. They're not like console games with a 60FPS limit. Obviously you don't see any difference above 60FPS, but there is no cap.
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    (Original post by Killjoy-)
    I've never used a mechanical KB, but from reading I can see that Cherry Red switches require less force to actuate than Cherry Blacks.

    Your best bet is to try both types of keys; I don't know how you'll manage that though as I don't know of any brick-and-mortar stores that sell these keyboards.
    I know :/ I was trying to find somewhere that stock it but nothing, especially up here!

    And I have agonised for days over which keys to get!

    After looking at youtube clips I know I definitely don't want the blues, even with the o-rings they were very loud.

    Blacks, don't know. I love the steelseries, the look is perfect, but I don't know how they would be to type.

    Browns sound like the ones for me, the only keyboard I could find that wasn't gaming lights etc was the Filco... But that's £120!

    So, red one was only £65, and I have a lighter typing style, so we'll see. I've got 7 day period for returns.
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    (Original post by neillya1)
    Honestly I would never, ever go for an ASROCK board. They're a spin off of ASUS and whilst ASUS are decent, ASROCK are crap. The capacitors are sub-standard, RMA's are common and the returns process is horrific, not to mention the non-existent customer service.

    I'm sure many people have fine experiences with ASROCK boards but I've had 3 now, 2 have completely failed within 4 months (capacitor failures) and the other failed after 2 years (not sure why, but I'd still expect it to last longer than 2 years).

    The Corsairs really have very few issues with reliability. Like the Vertex OCZ drivers, the older versions had stability issues due to chipset drivers, but the new chipsets and drivers solve those issues. If the Samsung is cheaper then I'd go for it, it's a cracking drive, but it wasn't when I looked. Might be in some places though.

    The Crucial M4's are excellent and highly recommended, think they're a bit more expensive though. The Kingston drives (or Sandisk) are just **** from my experience, I wouldn't take them.

    Like I said with the 670, I only included the OC'd version because it's ~£15 cheaper than a stock clocked version. I'd go for one with a stock clock over it at standard prices. Also stock coolers are fine, there are no reasons to add an aftermarket cooler to a GPU for the vast vast majority of users......

    As for game caps, things like SC2 aren't capped at all unless you turn on Vsync. They're not like console games with a 60FPS limit. Obviously you don't see any difference above 60FPS, but there is no cap.
    ASrock have generally been especially price for performance and being good value for money, especially the one I linked which is reviewed well for what it gives.

    Everyone has bad experiences to be fair.

    The OCZ definitely have issues, they are a few quid more but you get 38gb worth of storage more which is a very good deal.

    I'm speaking in terms of temps wise, the after manufacturer who add on there own coolers are so much better, especially if the user is going to use it to render over long period of times, temps become important.

    I'm pretty sure you are capped in many cases, especially due to the screen and internal cap limits in some cases.
    Hence the 670 is overkill in terms of SC2.
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    (Original post by Iqbal007)

    The OCZ definitely have issues, they are a few quid more but you get 38gb worth of storage more which is a very good deal.

    I'm speaking in terms of temps wise, the after manufacturer who add on there own coolers are so much better, especially if the user is going to use it to render over long period of times, temps become important.

    I'm pretty sure you are capped in many cases, especially due to the screen and internal cap limits in some cases.
    Hence the 670 is overkill in terms of SC2.
    I have the Vertex 4 in my new rig and no issues at all so far, it's fantastic. Most review sites agree too - the days of old with crap chipsets are over, the new SandForce controllers are pretty damn good.

    I get what you mean about the GPU cooler, thought you meant adding an aftermarket cooler. I have the stock cooler on my EVGA 670 and I've stress tested over 48 hours (CPU, RAM and GPU testing) with no issues at all, temps don't even exceed 65C at full usage. I know non-stock coolers are generally better but I haven't seen any issues with this one. The power draw is pretty high though, but obviously that's just the card.

    For something like SC2 then yes of course the 670 is overkill, it's a card built to demolish any game around today and for the near future. If all it was needed for was basic gaming I wouldn't recommend it at all, but since there'll be a lot of rendering, it seems a good choice. Plus the poster said they wanted to buy now and not need to upgrade for a while - a 670 will last 4/5 years before being outdated.
    Very few games are capped, only (poor) console ports. From Dust springs to mind.... what an awful game.
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    (Original post by neillya1)
    Very few games are capped, only (poor) console ports.
    LA Noire
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    (Original post by Killjoy-)
    LA Noire
    Tell me about it
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    Is this PC worth it? O_o not really a tech expert so need some advice.
    http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B...omputers&psc=1
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    (Original post by neillya1)
    You said you don't have the time to build yourself - I built mine and within 3 hours of the parts arriving I had it built and my OS was installing.

    Also I know you want it on finance, have you looked at Scan.co.uk finance plans?
    Interest free for 9 or 12 months, plus you can buy all the individual parts and save yourself a small fortune.

    You could probably knock a minimum of £250, maybe up to £350 off your build price buy just buying the parts from them and building. It's really not hard, you still get your interest free finance and save a small fortune. Assuming it takes 3 hours to build, you're essentially saving over £100 per hour of work.... That's a bloody good hourly rate.
    Thanks just made as similar build as possible on scan.co.uk and it came to £1430. The psu is upgraded for about £25, case seems overkill because there's so many to chose from and it's the most expensive one on pcspecialist.

    aaannnd cooler is this >>> Corsair H80 Hydro Series High Performance CPU cooler for £75.36, no idea whether I need it or not I just sorted by most popular and chose one that looked decent. :confused:

    Prices seem better if slightly but choice is way too much for me and it's 9 months finance not 12 which is kind of annoying but ok still. not £250-350 off build though.
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    (Original post by Iqbal007)
    that sounds a bit funny to me




    http://www.ebuyer.com/260589-samsung...-ls20a300ns-en it's £67 from ebuyer.

    So 2 of those with mouse and keyboard is £149, so £351.




    how much you looking to spend?


    What parts would you recommend for the things I listed? And what about the extras like fans and power supply?
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    (Original post by neillya1)
    I have the Vertex 4 in my new rig and no issues at all so far, it's fantastic. Most review sites agree too - the days of old with crap chipsets are over, the new SandForce controllers are pretty damn good.

    I get what you mean about the GPU cooler, thought you meant adding an aftermarket cooler. I have the stock cooler on my EVGA 670 and I've stress tested over 48 hours (CPU, RAM and GPU testing) with no issues at all, temps don't even exceed 65C at full usage. I know non-stock coolers are generally better but I haven't seen any issues with this one. The power draw is pretty high though, but obviously that's just the card.

    For something like SC2 then yes of course the 670 is overkill, it's a card built to demolish any game around today and for the near future. If all it was needed for was basic gaming I wouldn't recommend it at all, but since there'll be a lot of rendering, it seems a good choice. Plus the poster said they wanted to buy now and not need to upgrade for a while - a 670 will last 4/5 years before being outdated.
    Very few games are capped, only (poor) console ports. From Dust springs to mind.... what an awful game.
    Well I was talking about the current ones like Vertex 3 and the likes, a lot of complaints....but the other ones are priced pretty well and would definitely suggest the Crucial M4 or Samsung 830 even if it is a bit more, more storage.

    Oh that would be silly it'll void the warranty tried to put a better thermal paste than realised the little stickers
    Well considering its rendering, anything which extensively pushes a high temp for a long period of time is quite damaging to be fair. Yeah its the card.

    Well they did say they may be willing to upgrade, but a 6850 will play SC2 pretty well on max settings, plus I did suggest a quadro for the rendering which would have been better for the rendering. GTX670 will start to struggle on max settings withing a few years with the new console releases so game makers will up their game.
    Yeah I know, I got the YLOD again after fixing it :dry:
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    (Original post by Cupid Stunt)
    Thanks just made as similar build as possible on scan.co.uk and it came to £1430. The psu is upgraded for about £25, case seems overkill because there's so many to chose from and it's the most expensive one on pcspecialist.

    aaannnd cooler is this >>> Corsair H80 Hydro Series High Performance CPU cooler for £75.36, no idea whether I need it or not I just sorted by most popular and chose one that looked decent. :confused:

    Prices seem better if slightly but choice is way too much for me and it's 9 months finance not 12 which is kind of annoying but ok still. not £250-350 off build though.
    list the specs..........

    if your not going to overlock and just want better temps and cooling than a Gelid cooler will do fine.
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    (Original post by hines)
    What parts would you recommend for the things I listed? And what about the extras like fans and power supply?
    monitor x 2: http://www.ebuyer.com/260589-samsung...-ls20a300ns-en £66.99
    Mouse & keyboard:http://www.ebuyer.com/226938-xenta-b...-3518b-hm-3301 £10.99

    Motherboard: http://www.ebuyer.com/351614-gigabyt...rd-ga-b75m-d3h £59.40 not sure if you want this motherboard, it's a small mATX one and doesn't offer much features as a full ATX.
    CPU: i3-2120http://www.ebuyer.com/254978-intel-c...-bx80623i32120 £90.12 could swap it for a amd quad core.
    Ram: 2 x 4gb 1600mhzhttp://www.ebuyer.com/195372-kingsto...1600c9d3k2-8gx £29.98
    PSU:XFX ProSeries 450W http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/c...450s-u2b9.html £38.38
    GPU: did you want any sort of graphics card?
    Case:Antec 300 http://www.ebuyer.com/143854-antec-3...761345-08300-3 £39.99
    HDD: 500gb http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005GOTMR...SIN=B005GOTMR2 £47.98


    £450.82 in total not including Windows OS, read my comments, the main issues are the motherboard, power supply, cpu and graphics. Are you happy with it?
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    (Original post by Jin3011)
    Is this PC worth it? O_o not really a tech expert so need some advice.
    http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B...omputers&psc=1
    Nope, they basically trick you.

    INTEL i5 2500K Quad Core 4x3,3GHz 2nd gen i5 well known and is good, but that 4 x 3.3 is trying to say its 13.2 which is a lie, seen it before.............also you won't be overclocking so don't see the point of this i5.
    Network LAN, Wireless LAN USB, 2xUSB3.0 No info on the motherboard at all, also a bad sign most likely a cheap one
    Windows7 Home Premium 64Bit English (DVD a.Lizenzkey)
    1000GB HDD most likely generic and a old tech one
    8GB DDR3 (1333 MHz) most likely again generic and slow
    DVD Writer most likely generic
    Grafik GeForce GTX550 Ti (1024MB DDR5-VGA-DVI-HDMI-DirectX 11) that graphics is the basic starting point of gaming graphics card from Nvidia, its inbetween the multimedia cards and the gaming ones

    The case is also something weird, but does certainly look decent with the cooling and ports.

    Another worrying thing is the power supply, which is likely to be cheap and generic which is a bad sign as it will explode within some time as seen from the reviews.

    Another thing is that it's from Germany so repairing will take some time.


    do you want some help in getting a pre-built one?
    or building it yourself ?
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    (Original post by Killjoy-)
    The Syncmaster doesn't look bad

    I'm hoping to get a Steelseries 6GV2 to use with a laptop, I've never had a mechanical keyboard though so I don't know what they 'feel' like when typing.

    (Original post by Killjoy-)
    I've never used a mechanical KB, but from reading I can see that Cherry Red switches require less force to actuate than Cherry Blacks.

    Your best bet is to try both types of keys; I don't know how you'll manage that though as I don't know of any brick-and-mortar stores that sell these keyboards.
    I use Cherry Black with my Steelseries 7G, and it's really not that hard to type, maybe you'd struggle after hours and hours of essays, but for gaming and just casual typing, it's not a problem at all. Syncmaster RZ was highly recommended to me, mainly for the 120 Hz / price.

    EDIT: At Quakecon yesterday apparently John Carmack was emphasizing how important 120 Hz true gameplay is to pros, to the point where their setups would have the really fat screens, just because they were true 120 Hz
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    Ok, got the build to this. Thinking of just keeping it around the £1400 mark because I keep getting carried away with the odd £30 upgrade etc.



    It comes to £1410.40, few things:
    1. Do I need a network card or anything for a wired internet connection?
    2. Do I need that sound card?
    3. Is anything a bit pointless e.g. Graphics card/motherboard upgrade?
    4. I want that case so no comments on that.
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    (Original post by Aristotle's' Disciple)
    I use Cherry Black with my Steelseries 7G, and it's really not that hard to type, maybe you'd struggle after hours and hours of essays, but for gaming and just casual typing, it's not a problem at all. Syncmaster RZ was highly recommended to me, mainly for the 120 Hz / price.

    EDIT: At Quakecon yesterday apparently John Carmack was emphasizing how important 120 Hz true gameplay is to pros, to the point where their setups would have the really fat screens, just because they were true 120 Hz
    From what I know I doubt I'd be able to tell the difference between a 120Hz and a 60Hz source; but 120Hz is necessary for nVidia 3D isn't it? I was reading an article about FPS the other day (I can't remember on which site) and they made a very good point that a immobile brick wall at 120Hz will appear the same as a immobile brick wall at 60Hz

    I looked at the 7G as well - is it the 6V02 with an armrest or is there more there?
    I'd prefer to get the 7G but it's quite expensive, for me at least.
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    (Original post by Cupid Stunt)
    Ok, got the build to this. Thinking of just keeping it around the £1400 mark because I keep getting carried away with the odd £30 upgrade etc.



    It comes to £1410.40, few things:
    1. Do I need a network card or anything for a wired internet connection?
    2. Do I need that sound card?
    3. Is anything a bit pointless e.g. Graphics card/motherboard upgrade?
    4. I want that case so no comments on that.
    You don't need a network card.

    Get rid of the sound card unless you're a studio producer or have 5.1 or above surround sound.

    Graphics card is good but the EVGA one is identical with (I find) better customer service should anything go wrong, and is around £25 cheaper. Always look on the "Todays Deals" section at Scan, you'll save a few quid here and there but it all adds up/

    I'd get an OEM DVDRW drive for about £5 then just buy a SATA cable. They cost about 30p, save a few quid.

    Case is very good, I have it myself - highly recommend it.

    Motherboard seems a bit overkill, something like this:
    http://www.scan.co.uk/products/gigab...dvi-d-hdmi-atx

    Or this if you don't want SLi and still want an ASUS board:
    http://www.scan.co.uk/products/asus-...dvi-i-hdmi-atx

    I'd recommend the Gigabyte though, usually pretty solid.

    Go for LP (low profile) RAM. You don't need big heatsinks, it doesn't get hot - a marketing gimmick. LP sticks will give you more room and takes out the risk that it'll get in the way of your CPU cooler.

    Looks like a decent build though

    Oh and sorry but I don't know too much about that CPU cooler. Reviews online say it seems good but never tried it myself. Also 1TB storage isn't much these days, but you can always upgrade later
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    (Original post by Iqbal007)
    Nope, they basically trick you.

    INTEL i5 2500K Quad Core 4x3,3GHz 2nd gen i5 well known and is good, but that 4 x 3.3 is trying to say its 13.2 which is a lie, seen it before.............also you won't be overclocking so don't see the point of this i5.
    Network LAN, Wireless LAN USB, 2xUSB3.0 No info on the motherboard at all, also a bad sign most likely a cheap one
    Windows7 Home Premium 64Bit English (DVD a.Lizenzkey)
    1000GB HDD most likely generic and a old tech one
    8GB DDR3 (1333 MHz) most likely again generic and slow
    DVD Writer most likely generic
    Grafik GeForce GTX550 Ti (1024MB DDR5-VGA-DVI-HDMI-DirectX 11) that graphics is the basic starting point of gaming graphics card from Nvidia, its inbetween the multimedia cards and the gaming ones

    The case is also something weird, but does certainly look decent with the cooling and ports.

    Another worrying thing is the power supply, which is likely to be cheap and generic which is a bad sign as it will explode within some time as seen from the reviews.

    Another thing is that it's from Germany so repairing will take some time.


    do you want some help in getting a pre-built one?
    or building it yourself ?

    Hah, ripped it to shreds. But yh, looking to get a decent pre-built one that can handle HD video and music editing. [Budget ≤ £700]. There's just so many online that I haven't a clue where to start.
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    (Original post by Jin3011)
    Hah, ripped it to shreds. But yh, looking to get a decent pre-built one that can handle HD video and music editing. [Budget ≤ £700]. There's just so many online that I haven't a clue where to start.
    Any gaming at all?
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    (Original post by neillya1)
    You don't need a network card.

    Get rid of the sound card unless you're a studio producer or have 5.1 or above surround sound.

    Graphics card is good but the EVGA one is identical with (I find) better customer service should anything go wrong, and is around £25 cheaper. Always look on the "Todays Deals" section at Scan, you'll save a few quid here and there but it all adds up/

    I'd get an OEM DVDRW drive for about £5 then just buy a SATA cable. They cost about 30p, save a few quid.

    Case is very good, I have it myself - highly recommend it.

    Motherboard seems a bit overkill, something like this:
    http://www.scan.co.uk/products/gigab...dvi-d-hdmi-atx

    Or this if you don't want SLi and still want an ASUS board:
    http://www.scan.co.uk/products/asus-...dvi-i-hdmi-atx

    I'd recommend the Gigabyte though, usually pretty solid.

    Go for LP (low profile) RAM. You don't need big heatsinks, it doesn't get hot - a marketing gimmick. LP sticks will give you more room and takes out the risk that it'll get in the way of your CPU cooler.

    Looks like a decent build though

    Oh and sorry but I don't know too much about that CPU cooler. Reviews online say it seems good but never tried it myself. Also 1TB storage isn't much these days, but you can always upgrade later
    Gigabyte have brilliant customer service from what I hear. Usually less than 5 days turn around time (i.e. from receiving your item to you receiving it back fixed) and the warranty is 3 years long (same as EVGA).

    Furthermore, the gigabyte card is just a lot better on the whole; quieter, cooler, runs at a higher max and standard clock - worth the £25 extra.
Updated: June 10, 2013
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