[Bathwiggle]

Come join in the motorbike society, whether you ride, like watching bike racing, or saw a pretty bike go past. We don't bite, and even if the thread seems off topic, we will always help with any bike questions.

THE SOCIETY PAGE

You’re probably here as you want to know about riding a motorbike/scooter/moped. There should be all the information you need to know included somewhere in this post, although I know it’s long, there is a lot of stuff included!

Step one

Before you can get near a bike you need to obtain a provisional license. If you have a car license (full or provisional) check your paper bit, you may already have the provisional entitlement (this should show as a ‘p’ for a moped or ‘a’ for motorbike. They are different.

If you don’t have a provisional entitlement, then you can apply on-line here or get a D1 form from a post office. Once you have received this you can start your training.

New Bike test routes

Options
Options at 16 – get a CBT and ride a 50cc bike or moped
Options at 17-18 – get a CBT and ride up to a 125cc bike/scooter, or do your CBT, theory test and full restricted tests and ride a 125cc
Options at 19-23 – get a CBT and ride up to a 125cc bike/scooter, or do your CBT, theory test and full restricted tests and ride anything that is restricted to 46.6bhp.
Options at 24+ - get a CBT or or do your CBT, theory test and DAS and ride anything.

CBT … what is that?

This is a 1 day training course, which is compulsory and lasts for 2 years once it is completed. It should cost about £100, and is carried out both on and off road, and teaches you to ride safely. There are 5 parts:
-Eye sight
-Learning bike controls
-Learning to ride the bike
-Talk about the Highway Code and bike safety
-Road riding

Once successfully completed you get a certificate enabling you to ride a bike relevant to your age. You must ride displaying L plates; you cannot go on motorways, or carry pillions. If you are 16, you can ride a 50cc, or a 125cc if you’re 17 or over. It lasts for 2 years and then you must redo it, unless you pass your full test in the meantime.

Theory test … But I’ve done the car one

Whether you’ve done the car theory test or not; you have to do a bike one as well. Much of it is the same, although there are some bike specific questions. It costs the same as the car (£31) and lasts two years

Free trials here

If you want to know more, read this

’ I’m bored of my 125, I want something BIGGER!’

Lessons You can learn by yourself, or lessons with an instructor like car lessons, or you can do an intensive course

what you can ride
Options at 17-18 – get a CBT and ride up to a 125cc bike/scooter, or do your CBT, theory test and full restricted tests and ride a 125cc
Options at 19-23 – get a CBT and ride up to a 125cc bike/scooter, or do your CBT, theory test and full restricted tests and ride anything that is restricted to 46.6bhp.
Options at 24+ - get a CBT, or do your CBT, theory test and full restricted tests and ride anything that is restricted to 46.6bhp, or or do your CBT, theory test and DAS and ride anything.


Ok, fussy details out the way, about the actual test..
The motorbike test are the same, all that differs is the size of bike you take your test on. The bike tests have 2 parts.

Module 1- from £15.50
You must take with you your CBT certificate (DL196), your Theory and Hazard Perception Test pass certificate (less than 2 years old) and a valid licence. You must also be wearing suitable clothing. This covers manual handling, slalem and a figure of 8, cornering, hazard avoidance at 30mph, a U turn, slow riding, and an emergency stop at 32mph.It takes, on average, about 22 minutes. If you've reached the required standard your examiner will issue you with a pass certificate.

Module one advice from Armador

There are a lot of cool tips for it, though. I'll give you a few of the ones my instructor gave me:
- Slalom and figure of 8 are all about keeping revs high but keeping the clutch in the friction zone and looking at the cones. If you feel the bike slip, don't drop the bike or put your foot down - let go of the clutch. It'll bring you back above ground level
- Slow ride is piss-easy. Clutch in friction zone, about 3k rpm, watch for balance
- Emergency stop brake order is a bit of front, a bit of back, a lot of front. Instructors are looking for the weight transfer, NOT the distance. If your front forks are compressed, he'll pass you. Remember the check over the shoulder at the end for added cool points.
- Swerve is the trickiest bit of it. Counter steering makes it easy, but the hard bit is to do the swerve and land in the line of cones. The way my instructor kept saying is the easiest is to hammer into 2nd gear all the way to the speed trap, and as soon as you've gone past it, to let go of the throttle. Cruise past the swerve, and then brake nicely in the line. It worked for me the 2nd go (stopped accelerating too early on first go, 45kph)

Module 2- from £75
Is a road ride taking about 40minutes, which assesses your ability to ride safely. You will start with an eye test, then 2 show me, tell me questions before beginning the ride. You need all the documents you took to module one, plus the equipment.

*Entitlement to ride bikes of different sizes*

License changes

MOPED - Licence category AM - maximum design speed between 25-45 km/h (also includes small three wheelers up to 50 cc and below 4 kW and light quadricycles with unladen mass less than 350 kg and up to 45 km/h). The minimum age to ride these vehicles will still be 16 and you'll still need to pass your CBT, theory test and practical test if you want a full moped licence.



SMALL MOTORCYCLE - Licence category A1 (up to 125 cc, power output not more than 11 kW and a power to weight ratio not more than 0.1 kW per kg. Also tricycles with a power output not more than 15 kW). The minimum age limit for category A1 will still be 17 years and you'll still need to pass your CBT, theory test and practical test if you want a full A1 licence so that you can move up to a bigger bike two years later.



MEDIUM MOTORCYCLE - Licence category A2 (up to 35 kW, (47bhp) with or without a sidecar, a power to weight ratio not more than 0.2 kW per kg - NB: the bike must not be restricted down from a vehicle of more than double its power). The minimum age for category A2 is 19 years. There are two ways to get this entitlement: 'Staged Access' if you have two years' experience on an A1 motorcycle by passing another practical test. 'Direct Access' if you do not have two years' experience on an A1 motorcycle, by passing a theory test and a practical test.



LARGE MOTORCYCLE - Licence category A (machines unlimited in size and power, with or without a sidecar, and trikes with a power output of more than 15 kW). There are two ways to get this entitlement too. 'Staged Access' if you have two years' experience on an A2 motorcycle by passing another practical test. 'Direct Access' if you are aged 24 or older and do not have two years' experience on an A2 motorcycle, by passing a theory test and a practical test.



TRIKES - You'll need to follow the same rules if you want to ride a trike that falls within these categories. MAG has asked for confirmation from DSA whether this takes us from a position where you can currently ride a trike from age 17 on a car licence, to a position where you will have to be aged at least 21 and have worked your way through Staged Access (or take Direct Access from age 24). NB: Tests using mopeds with three or four wheels, motorcycle-sidecar outfits, A1 tricycles and A tricycles will only be offered to the physically disabled.

So you’ve passed your CBT/bike test and are ready to go? (Equipment)

Equipment
Legally you HAVE to wear a helmet. That’s it. Not even a pair of pants, just a helmet.

You should also get gloves, jacket, trousers, and boots. This doesn't mean full leathers, although these are still considered the best, but at £700 plus for a full suit, it can be expensive. Textile protective clothing is a cheaper option, but sacrifices itself in an accident.

A helmet can cost from £45 although the more expensive ones will offer more protection, be quieter, wind proof, not fog up, can have blue tooth, an a sun visor built in, Shoei and Arai don't do helmets with built in sun visors as they state it compromises safety and they are designed for race use. If you want to get one and not use sun glasses, a tinted visor works, but these should not be used at night

Gloves can cost from £30, they can be textile or leather gloves, with amour in the knuckles, and they shouldn't be too tight as in winter you will get cold quickly, but tight enough they don't fall of. In winter heated grips and motorbike muffs help keep hands warm

Jackets cost from £60, you want textile or leather, with built in body armour, this will help absorb the impact of an accident. Most come with a thin bit of foam as a back protector. KNOX do a CE approved replacement, or a separate one can be used
Trousers can be over trousers or instead of your normal trousers, and can cost from £40. Look for knee and hip amour. Draggin jeans/hood jeans/RST do some are an option, but while they will save your skin, you may still shatter your knee caps on impact, so you should look into some amour inserts for the point of impact, i.e. your knees and hips. You won't need knee sliders until you are trying to get your knee down and can actually ride.

Boots I'll be honest, I spent 3 years wearing hiking boots before finding a pair that fitted me. You can get boots from about £50, and the idea is in a crash they will hold your feet together. Trainers will not do this. There are a range of bots, touring, which are just a protective leather boot with padding on the shins, sports which feature toe sliders for when you are scraping along the floor, and motocross boots which ratchet up. These are the bulkiest. Chose them on your riding, cost and what you like the look of. As well as what’s comfortable!

Body armour is something you can use to increase your safety, for example a back protector (as made by Knox or Forcefield) could save your life, and possibly prevent you from being paralysed. You can get armour to put in your jacket for knees, shoulders, hips, elbows and chest.

I am going to stress the importance of Back Protectors

Basics. You wear a helmet to protect your head as without it you'd die. You can live with a severed spinal cord but you won't be walking. The aim of the back protector is to provide as much protection for your back as possible, from impact like landing on a stone, sliding along the road or being flung into a sign or armaco. when you crash you may have to roll or bend on impact which is why something ridged isn't ideal, the back protector she be able to absorb the impact on landing and not transfer it on to you, which not snapping as you are flung through the air. (This should apply to all)

A solid back protector will protect you from punctures, but soft will absorb the impact, it depends what you use it for.

My preference is for a Forcefield L2. Voted best buy in RiDe magazine, but there are Forcefield Level 1, 2 and 4. 4 is far thicker than level 2, and while it transmits less than 4kn to the body, compared to the less than 6 (I think of the L2) it is over twice the thickness and I didn't find it so comfortable.

Knox do them, Halvarssons, Oxford, Alpinestar. I use a separate one under my jacket, partially as I have 4 different jackets I use. If you already have leathers it might not fit under them so take your jacket with you when you go to buy on, or buy a new jacket
http://www.motorcyclenews.com/upload...tor%20test.pdf

So now am I ready, I’ve got the training and the gear?!?

I suppose you want a bike then!
Mopeds and Scooters
Mopeds (hair dryers) - less than 50cc automatic bike. Speed limited to 32mph.Examples include
Yamaha ones
Peugeot ones

Scooters
They are automatic, and range from 50cc up to 840cc. If you are 17 you can ride one that is 125cc, with a CBT, any larger and you need a full bike license to ride them

Motorbikes
Once you pass bike test there are different sorts of bike you can ride, what you get depends on your license and also where you want to ride.
125cc/250cc for town riding
Aprilia RS125 (not learner legal as is 33bhp when un-restricted)
Honda's CBR125
Yamaha YBR125
Honda CG125 (bomb proof)
Ninja 250 (Chilledice has one)
CB125 (Smilingsam has one)

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Motorways 400cc plus.
If you are on a restricted license you have to restrict these to 46.6bhp, easily done by a garage, or by yourself on a carbed bike if you have the know-how.

CBR400
BANDIT 400 (bathwiggle)
Suzuki GS500
Suzuki SV650 (Landyjon/bathwiggle/lantana)
XJ6 (gingerjak, bathwiggle has ridden one)
CB500
ER5
ER6 Philo has one
FZS600 (Fazer) (Boristhethird/Motorbiker both own and love these beautiful bikes)
Gladius

Restricting your bike is a legal requirement to allow you to meet the criteria of your license. If you don't restrict it, or remove the restricting (be it washers or ECU) you will not be riding in accordance with your license, therefore have no insurance and be breaking the law. Don't do it! And i know of cases should anyone want proof of police dyno'ing bikes to check the restriction. (This applies to mopeds and scooters too!)

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If you're a short female or just want to know what might suit you : http://cycle-ergo.com/ <-- that will tell you if you can sit on a bike, just tell it your height and it does the rest.
Here gives a list of bike seat heights

If you like a bike and it is too high you can remove padding from the seat, buy a different seat, adjust the suspension, raise the dog bones, or by Daytona Ladystar boots which have a nice thick sole to give you more height. – ask Bathwiggle or Lantana about this

Do not go buy the first bike you see, try different bikes, as different styles suit different people. Please don't go buy an R6, you will probably kill yourself 5 miles down the road.

License, gear bike……Insurance?

Insurance
I could sugar coat this, but I won’t. Most on here pay about £500 TPFT with no no-claims with no NCB.But compare this to £5,000 for similiar guys with cars and you'll see the £4.5k saving and the reason why motorbikes are awesome.
(Helpful bit)
Insurance depends on the bike (smaller=cheaper) age (older=cheaper) how you lock it (is it alarmed, disc locked, locked to an immovable object with a chain, go to a price comparison site, put in some details and see what it says, this is the most accurate way of giving you an idea of what insurance will cost. On the plus side, it’s cheaper than a car (normally)

Suggested companies include Express insurance and The Bike Insurer

You might want some Security

To reduce your insurance security can be added to your bike.
For example:
-Disk lock (goes on your brake disc so the bike can't be wheeled away, different locks are better than others)
-A chain (through the back wheel and around a lamp post or over the seat, if its on the ground it could be angle grinded away)
-Ground anchor (cemented or drilled in to the ground so you can chain your bike to it)
-Alarm (makes lots of noise when the bike is moved, but can drain your battery)
-Data tag/alpha dot (means that if you bike is stolen it can be tracked back to you)
-Tracker (emits a traceable signal that can be traced and used to locate the bike)

How you can make biking cheaper and maintenance

-You can keep costs down through varying means, for example sticking to the speed limit. I get 50miles more from my tank sitting at 70mph compared to sitting at 90mph.
-Pre-planning and not harshly accelerating/breaking.
-Shop around when your insurance is up, and Fully Comprehensive may be cheaper than Third Party. =If you have a cheap bike, Third Party, Fire and Theft will make more sense than Fully Comp.
-Pay monthly for your insurance makes it easier, but it is cheaper normally to pay annually.
-Don't get just 6 months tax, you can always SORN your bike if you aren't using it for a prolonged period of time. When you SORN the bike you can get a refund on the remaining full months of tax left.

Advanced Training

You have 4 main Options for advance rider training.
These are the Bikesafe, ERS, IAM training and the ROSPA test.

Bikesafe

Bikesafe

Summary:
- Bikesafe is an introduction to advanced training, run by the Police.
- It is a 1 or 2 day course
- You can do it on any size engine, and even on a scooter if in London on their Scootersafe scheme
- It is subsidised, and costs £40-60; you may get lunch included for this
- You get a talk in the morning/first day and a ride in the afternoon/second day
- You'll get lots of advice on how to improve your riding, and your bad habits will be pointed out so be prepared!

Bikesafe is a "ride check" thing rather than an ongoing course like IAM or RoSPA (the IAM also offer a one-off ride check that is similar, for £35 I believe). It's usually a one or two day affair, run by the police, and is less likely to reduce your insurance premium than the advanced groups, although there are exceptions, usually the more expensive/well-known motorcycle insurers such as Devitt.

A Bikesafe course usually costs between £40 and £60 - quite heavily subsidised by the police. It's not quite as centralised as other groups so there are differences in how it works depending on where you are in the country. In London, for example, the police run Scootersafe as well as Bikesafe, aiming to make scooter riders aware that they can improve their riding too. Unlike RoSPA and IAM (which require your machine to be totally capable of maintaining the national speed limit at all times), Bikesafe is open to people on smaller bikes as well.

The course will start with a presentation by the police, involving powerpoint/videos/an officer talking about safe riding techniques, positioning etc. and other important safety points like checking your bike over thoroughly on a regular basis and wearing appropriate gear. If it's a one-day affair, this usually fills the morning and then lunch may be provided depending on the constabulary running it. If it's a two-day course, the presentation element will be all you get for the first day.

In the afternoon/second day, you get the 'ride check' element. This involves riding around being followed by a police motorcyclist - don't worry, they're not always on police bikes! Much like your training, they usually take two riders to one police biker, and they'll match you up as closely as possible to another rider on the course in terms of machine capability & riding experience. They'll hook you up to a radio and take you on a variety of roads to see how you ride - you can specify which things you most want to concentrate on, e.g. filtering. They will tailor it for you to an extent. This won't last more than a couple of hours.

Finally you'll get a thorough debriefing, talking about the ride itself and pointers for how you can improve and what to concentrate on.

Bikesafe is more of an introduction to improving your riding - if you join the RoSPA/IAM a year after passing your test for example; Bikesafe is probably more suitable at 6 months after you pass.

ERS

The ERS is the Enhanced Riding Scheme. This Scheme is run by the DSA(the same people as the normal bike test). This is like the passplus of the bike world. This scheme is targeted at people who :
* have just passed their test
* are returning to riding
* are upgrading to a bigger bike
* feel their skills are a bit rusty

As training is tailored to your needs, you do as little or as much training as required - mostly to help reduce key risk areas in on-road riding, such as bend negotiation, overtaking, filtering, positioning and junctions.

ERS training starts when you book an ERS assessment with one of the expert trainers from the Driving Standards Agency (DSA) voluntary Register of Post-Test Motorcycle Trainers (RPMT).

The assessment will identify your main strengths and weaknesses but there is no 'pass' or 'fail' - no test is involved and you cannot lose your licence. If your riding skills are satisfactory, the process ends there and you will be issued with an ERS certificate.

If you do need training, the trainer will prepare a personalised training plan for you and concentrate on specific areas needing attention, rather than taking a �one size fits all� approach.

Once you've completed your training, you'll receive a report and a 'DSA Certificate of Competence - Enhanced Rider Bonus', which then qualifies you for an insurance discount.
Typical cost of ERS training
The cost of the training will vary from provider to provider, and often from rider to rider dependent on individual needs. Talk to your local ERS trainers to find the best choice for you.

IAM training

IAM training
Summary:
How much does it cost? £139 plus a voluntary contribution to your observers petrol costs, this includes your test and unlimited observed rides.
How do I join?: Go to www.iam.org.uk
Should I do it?: Yes.
IAM works by having a series of groups around the country, each has its own observers and leaders of the group, and the IAM supervises these groups and ensures all training is up to standard. To join the IAM you buy the "skills for life" program on the IAM website, currently costing £139 but it goes up each year. Once you have purchased your "skills for life" IAM will send you a pack containing a form which allows you to join your local IAM group, instructions on how to join, the IAM "how to be a better rider" book, a logbook and a form for booking your test.

Once you have found your local group you ring/text/email them and join as an associate, using the form that the IAM will have sent you. You will be assigned an observer to follow you on arranged rides and impart advice on how to improve your riding; they will mark your ride out of ten in the following categories:

* Vehicle Condition
* Attire
* Slow Riding
* Moving off
* Forward Observation
* Use of Mirrors and Lifesavers
* Positioning
* Compliance with speed limits
* Awareness of Road Surfaces and weather conditions
* Progress in built up areas
* Maintaining Progress
* Motorways/ Dual Carriageways
* Overtaking
* Machine Control
* General Restraint
* Aptitude
* Approach to the System


These will be assessed on your advanced test and need to be above a 7/10 across the board to pass your test. A 3 is considered the level for a DSA "L plate" pass, and 10+ being Police standard.

The training involves a series of rides where you will be instructed in skills such as correct road positioning, skilled town riding, the correct use of speed and how to overtake correctly. Once your observer believes that you are up to standard you will be put in for your advanced test; using the form that you received upon purchasing the "skills for life" pack. The advanced test is similar to an observed ride in that you will be followed by an advanced motorcyclist on a variety of roads over an extended ride. During the ride they will judge how safely and effectively you ride. The examiner is normally a police motorcyclist and *always* the best of the best.

If you pass your IAM test you will become a full member of your local group and gain the benefits that all IAM members receive: Cheaper insurance, a safer riding style and the knowledge that you are a better road user than 90% of the people around you. If you wish to give something back to the group you can apply to become an observer yourself, your local group will train you to a level that allows you to teach other associates to become better riders, what could be more rewarding?

ROSPA test

Cost- £54 for advanced riding test +£20 Annual fee for joining ROSPA
The Groups
Groups have volunteer tutors; they have all passed the advanced test themselves at a high grade and have also been trained and assessed in order to meet the requirements to provide training for the advanced test. They will all be registered tutors with RoSPA Advanced Drivers and Riders. Some approved tutors may have also undertaken further training in advanced instruction and have become advanced tutors. They also take retests every three years so you can be sure that you will receive a high level of training.

What happens when I join a group?
As a new member wishing to receive training you will be assigned to one of the group's tutors. You will both agree a convenient training session, usually weekly or fortnightly, lasting for 1-2 hours.

The sessions are free. You will use your own vehicle for training and the tutors will give you guidance and advice. There is no limit to the number of lessons you are given - the groups are fully aware that everybody learns at a different pace and a training programme will be developed that best suits you.

Training will continue at a steady pace until your tutor feels that you are ready for the test. Once you have passed your test, training and guidance through the local group will continue because we feel that a good rider never stops learning and skills need to be developed to keep up with today's ever changing traffic conditions.

There are three standards of 'pass', gold being seen as the 'best' you can get outside of being a professional instructor or police rider.

Gold
This grade is recognised as the highest riding award available to the public. It will be awarded only to the polished systematic rider, who displays a complete understanding and appropriate application of the principles outlined in Motorcycle Roadcraft. The candidate will display a confidence and ability throughout the whole test which leads the examiner to consider that, if afforded the opportunity, the candidate has the potential with the basics already in place to do well on a police advanced course. The candidate's performance must be consistent throughout the whole of the test and so any lapses may result in a lower grade. Awards of this grade will therefore be reserved for the very best riders.

Silver
This grade will be awarded to riders who are well above the average. These riders will produce consistently safe and systematic rides but perhaps without the final polish, flair and smoothness of the Gold riders. They will demonstrate a thorough knowledge of the system of motorcycle control. Candidates must be able to ride up to the permitted speed limit where it is safe to do so but vary speed according to circumstances and conditions. It must be emphasised that silver is an extremely high grade and a commendable achievement.

Bronze
This grade will be awarded to riders whose performance is significantly above the standard required to pass the 'L' riding test. These riders will show a basic knowledge of Motorcycle Roadcraft but lack the ability to apply the system consistently throughout the test. The ride should be entirely safe, observing traffic signs, responding correctly to hazards and should display advanced riding techniques.

Candidates who fall below the minimum pass will be classified as 'fail'.

Once you have passed your test, you will be required to maintain your standard of riding by taking a re-test every three years, this is free to Members. When your retest is due we will send you a reminder and booking form. You must take your retest within a reasonable time of the due date in order to keep your Membership.

[Bathwiggle]

Motor biking is not the cheapest hobby, you have to pay for:
-insurance
-road tax (£35-£75)
- petrol (140p a litre, normally 50mpg for me)
- plus the maintenance (new tyres front and back £250, chain and sprockets £120, chain lube £10, oil £20, oil filter £8, spark plugs £8 ish each

If you can fix bikes yourself, such as using a Haynes manual, it will work out cheaper. Good equipment lasts years, so it pays to invest if you are planning to bike long term. If you get a faired bike and you crash it, it’s going to cost a lot.

Maintenance

While you can't carry out an MOT on your bike, if your bike is past the manufacturer’s warranty you may find that working on your bike yourself will save you a fair bit, especially as a basic service may cost over £100, and all it normally includes will be:

- Check operation of all Bulbs- turn on all your lights and check they work
-Chain Tension Adjustment and Lubrication- read your service manual, you will be told the chain needs between 2.5 to 3.5cm of slack, if it is too loose, find the tightest bit, loosen the rear wheel, tighten it until it is right, tighten everything back up and lube it. Or get a scotoiler.
Check front and rear drive sprockets - These should get replaced when the chain does, about every 10,000 or so miles, or more depending on how well you care for your chain.

Oil and Filter Change - Check the level of your oil, it should be between the max and min on your bike, check either the dipstick or the window, if it is low top it up! No oil and you will destroy you engine. check this before each ride . To change the oil, run the bike so it is warm, stand it upright, place a container under the sump plug, undo the sump plug and allow to drain. Then undo the oil filter and hand screw the replacement in, only hand tighten. Place the sump plug back in (tighten properly) and then refill with oil, don't over fill!
Check and adjust tyre pressures - low tyre pressure will affect handling, and can cause you to crash, as well as reduce mpg. It should say on the swing arm the optimum pressure, but you may find you prefer it slightly differently, check weekly!
-Check all brake pads - have a look, can you still see the brake pad?
Check and top up brake fluid levels - As brake fluid gets old it goes darker and should be replaced every couple of years, but if the level drops it is a good indication that you may need to replace your brake pads!
Check steering bearings - bike on centre stand and move the handle bars one way to the other, if it feels notchy, then they may need to be replaced
Check rear linkage bearings - First off set your bike on a stand and remove the rear tyre. Try to move the swing arm from side to side(opposite way it pivots normally) if u get any play even the smallest then the swing arm bearings are bad and need replaced.
Adjust and lubrication of all cables
Check tightness of vital nuts and bolts
Check suspension operation- when you are riding are you thrown everywhere when you hit a bump, do you feel every bump
Check the Charging rate of the battery using a multi-meter.
Change the spark plugs remove spark plug gap, unscrew, replace, and put cap back on for each.

If you don't know what you are doing, a Haynes Manual or the bikes service manual should help. The Haynes has pictures and step by step instructions; it is probably the best £15 i ever spent.

Basic tools needed?
Battery charger! - For when you leave the lights on, the reg/rec goes, long term storage
Screwdrivers- Philips and flat heads
Socket set and ratchets 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 17, and 22 mm
Spanners, from an 8mm to a 14mm
Pliers
Adjustable Spanner
Hammer
Feeler gauges to check spark plug gaps
Spark plug remover (often in the bike toolkit)
Chain splitter
Chain Lube
Brake Fluid
Oil (check what your bike needs, motorbike NOT car oil!!
Muc Off to clean it
Autosol to polish the exhaust
Paraffin to remove oil
Penetrating fluid, WD40 or the like
*NOTE* I am not a trained mechanic, if you are unsure, ask, or just don't do it

Daily checks
Servicing
MOT Checks

Members List
Bathwiggle(Tribal Queen): 2000 Suzuki SV650s
MHorman: 1998 Yamaha FZS 600"Fazer"(Red/Black)/2004 Honda CRF230(Red/Black)
Chilledice: Had 2009 Kawasaki Ninja (Green) -Answers to the name Yoshi./ 2005 BMW F650 GS
LandyJon: 1999 Suzuki SV650s and White Street triple
Boristhethird: 1988 Honda Bros 400 Fazer
Lantana: 2007 Suzuki SV650
Smilingsam: CB125
Adamski91- Bandit
Hravan - Yamaha Vity 125
Juno GN125
F4LL3N SV650/CBR600F
Imperial_Maniac: 2012 Honda CBF125


Members without bikes:
Loz17
JollyJelly
WalkerPassingby
Darren Hyland

http://www.google.co.uk/maps/ms?ie=U...266fcb3de1239a

Useful Links
Bike test
Government website
Bike gear
Road rash Queen, graphic images

[LandyJon]

Ta da

[Boristhethird]

[quote-=R-KAM]
Something tells me you like angering him
[/quote]
would i do a thing like that

[R-KAM]

[Bathwiggle]

(Original post by R-KAM)

I'm a good girl! I don't get road rage unless people try to kil me thhten they get the finger and I get away from them

Boris I'm not commuting at the moment

[R-KAM]

(Original post by MHorman)
Look who got the 10,000th post in the old thread...

I noticed, bloody dictator (read Hitler)

(Original post by Bathwiggle)
I'm a good girl! I don't get road rage unless people try to kil me thhten they get the finger and I get away from them

Boris I'm not commuting at the moment

Hahaha. I'd do more than stick the finger up if they tried to kill me tbf. The guy in here was telling about the accidents he's had on his bike. One of them is foonay

[Juno]

Hi peoples

[JC.]

(Original post by Juno)
Hi peoples

hello trouble!

[Bathwiggle]

(Original post by R-KAM)
Hahaha. I'd do more than stick the finger up if they tried to kill me tbf. The guy in here was telling about the accidents he's had on his bike. One of them is foonay

Most of the time its easier to get out of their way. I've been run into the central reservation, had a woman drive on to my exhaust (she got pulled over once i managed to get her to realise i wasn't going to move because if i moved the leg holding the bike up it was going to fall, and then a mouthful), turn right in front of me (ok i followed him, stopped him driving and screamed at him) but most of the time they don't even realise they've done something wrong.

[Lantana]

(Original post by Bathwiggle)
You're still my number one!

There has to be enough to keep both of us amused. We wouldn't want to get bored. Plus the only big bike we have is riderz and i'm not sure his bike is enough to keep the two of us going?

Just checking. I think we need a list of your harem in the OP *nods*

(Original post by MHorman)
Look who got the 10,000th post in the old thread...

Abuse!

(Original post by JC.)
Theres so many nice things out there, why stick with the same thing indefinately?

Because it's so much hassle changing and you get to know how it handles and can ride the roads better

(Original post by Chilledice)
:loveduck

Silly duck

[Bathwiggle]

(Original post by Lantana)
Just checking. I think we need a list of your harem in the OP *nods*

But what happens when i go, they won't get it...

it also comes like this

Landys going to buy me on

[JC.]

(Original post by Lantana)
Because it's so much hassle changing and you get to know how it handles and can ride the roads better

Hassle???
Nonsense, dealing up on something new is the best part! Then when you're bored of it in a couple of weeks deal up on something new and different.

I've had 11 cars and a bike since the start of the year.

Made money on everything so far too!

[Lantana]

(Original post by Bathwiggle)
it also comes like this

Don't like it - want it in blue! Also, am I being silly, but where is the exhaust?

(Original post by JC.)
Hassle???
Nonsense, dealing up on something new is the best part! Then when you're bored of it in a couple of weeks deal up on something new and different.

I've had 11 cars and a bike since the start of the year.

Made money on everything so far too!

Odd child! Well when I next want to change my car/bike I'll let you do it for me This is most likely to be several years away.

[JC.]

(Original post by Lantana)
Odd child! Well when I next want to change my car/bike I'll let you do it for me This is most likely to be several years away.

Works out quite well for me!
Little in the way of running repairs, no servicing bills, no depriciation + you get to own / use stuff you probably wouldn't have given a seccond look to.

Then when it's time to sell you get your money back and probably make enough to cover the petrol / insurnace etc.

Casing example, last month I bought a Rover p6. Had it 29 days paid a grand for it and sold it for £2100. Back in march I bought an MG v8 for £4900 and sold it about a month and a half later for £6300.

You buy smart you have your fun and make some money in the process.

Next car going up for sale is probably our Porsche and if I don't make a clear 2 grand on that I'll be stunned.

[Boristhethird]

(Original post by Bathwiggle)
BEFORE POSTING A QUESTION ABOUT THE TEST/FIRST BIKE/INSURANCE/GEAR PLEASE READ THE OP, IT CONTAINS PRETTY MUCH ALL THE INFO YOU WILL EVER NEED.

surly if they are going to read that, they are already reading the OP.

(Original post by Lantana)
Don't like it - want it in blue! Also, am I being silly, but where is the exhaust?

under the rear sear

Spoiler:

Show

[LandyJon]

(Original post by Bathwiggle)
Landys going to buy me on

Oh yeah?

(Original post by Lantana)
Don't like it - want it in blue! Also, am I being silly, but where is the exhaust?

Probably under the seat. It seems to be pretty common these days as it distributes the weight more easily. Even some of the latest 125s have got in on the act.

[Boristhethird]

(Original post by Chilledice)
x

you haven't lost your ninja have you

http://www.gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-m...-book/82632676


and on a lighter note, just back from cycling the 6 mile round trip to scouts.
boy that was a shock to the system, i really need to get fit again (bloody motorbikes, i used to do that kind of thing for fun!)

[Bathwiggle]

(Original post by Lantana)
Don't like it - want it in blue! Also, am I being silly, but where is the exhaust?

Odd child! Well when I next want to change my car/bike I'll let you do it for me This is most likely to be several years away.

Under the seat

(Original post by Boristhethird)
surly if they are going to read that, they are already reading the OP.

Well i'm hoping by putting it in caps they might look at the spoilers, rather than a quick glance and posting anyway

(Original post by LandyJon)
Oh yeah?

:CRY: you said you would so we could have matching ones. I'll go see if i can find the proof

i will reply to your pm soon, lifes kicking off again

[Boristhethird]

(Original post by LandyJon)
Oh yeah?

you did, same time as you where planning on getting a house, with a massive garage.

(Original post by Bathwiggle)
Well i'm hoping by putting it in caps they might look at the spoilers, rather than a quick glance and posting anyway

then you want it big, and scrolling


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