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Morris Minis

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    I've always wanted to own one, but they incredibly difficult to find.:dontknow:
    Any ideas? +price range?

    This was posted from The Student Room's Android App on my GT-I9100
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    http://pistonheads.com/sales/1349472.htm
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    Must it be a morris? What about the Austin or Rover badged examples?
    You can pick up a mini from anywhere between £1000 and £100,000 for an ex rally car with provable racing history!
    There's plenty to choose from in the £5k range, though.
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    lol 13k... i aint that rich mate!

    This was posted from The Student Room's Android App on my GT-I9100
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    (Original post by JC.)
    Must it be a morris? What about the Austin or Rover badged examples?
    You can pick up a mini from anywhere between £1000 and £100,000 for an ex rally car with provable racing history!
    There's plenty to choose from in the £5k range, though.
    Any between 1k (or less)-2k in awrite condition, wont worry much about the history...

    This was posted from The Student Room's Android App on my GT-I9100
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    Also been looking for a classic Mini (not fussed about whether its Rover, Austin or Morris, should I be? ) but it seems like the ones under a few thousand are beaten up and rusting. Anyone know how heavy they are on fuel? With them being under a 1L engine id assume fairly light but being so old maybe not very efficient but I have no idea. Cant seem to find any performance and economy figures for any on AutoTrader. Also, good idea for a first car or will I spend more time in the garage then on the road?
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    (Original post by hypercaine.)
    Also been looking for a classic Mini (not fussed about whether its Rover, Austin or Morris, should I be? ) but it seems like the ones under a few thousand are beaten up and rusting. Anyone know how heavy they are on fuel? With them being under a 1L engine id assume fairly light but being so old maybe not very efficient but I have no idea. Cant seem to find any performance and economy figures for any on AutoTrader. Also, good idea for a first car or will I spend more time in the garage then on the road?
    It seems that the only ones in good conditions are all out of my price range :hmpf:.


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    Dont expect a cheap car with a mini.

    If you do buy one expect to have your pocket drained.

    http://pistonheads.com/sales/4031668.htm

    This is very good for the money. About 1200 pounds under valued in the current market. If the photos are a true indication of the condition of course.

    40+ mpg can be had out of a 998. I know my daily is one.

    Its safe to say I know a thing or two about these cars.
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    (Original post by Sam Walters)
    Dont expect a cheap car with a mini.

    If you do buy one expect to have your pocket drained.

    http://pistonheads.com/sales/4031668.htm

    This is very good for the money. About 1200 pounds under valued in the current market. If the photos are a true indication of the condition of course.

    40+ mpg can be had out of a 998. I know my daily is one.

    Its safe to say I know a thing or two about these cars.
    I would say £1200 is a little high. More like £500. It has a fair few mods so it would be pricey to insure. It also has had all the work done by an amateur - look at that door gap, its wonky. It looks good but I can see rust so give it 3 years and I dare say it will have lots of it. The condition of the subframes isn't mentioned at all, the suspension has been messed with and that is a real pain to sort if something isn't right. No mention of the gearbox. If that goes wrong then again its a big job. Well done for spotting but anyone thinking of buying had best take a mini expert with them as this seems too good to be true.
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    (Original post by ken2)
    It seems that the only ones in good conditions are all out of my price range :hmpf:.


    This was posted from The Student Room's Android App on my GT-I9100
    I have a 1987 city e, cost me £1,900 and has FSH and history like the yellow pages Keep looking and you will find one. My advise would be to look for one which needs TLC but avoid rust, gearbox issues and mods. If buying on ebay, ask to go in person and negotiate. don't be afraid to knock them down as NO mini is ever perfect and you can use this to your advantage. Ask them what oil they use- a careful owner will use 20/50w as 20/40w causes premature wear. Its not a deal breaker but it will give you an idea as to how well the car is looked after. I would also join the mini forum and get to know their failings as minis do go wrong in many places. Good luck and if you need anything just ask
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    (Original post by quattro94)
    I have a 1987 city e, cost me £1,900 and has FSH and history like the yellow pages Keep looking and you will find one. My advise would be to look for one which needs TLC but avoid rust, gearbox issues and mods. If buying on ebay, ask to go in person and negotiate. don't be afraid to knock them down as NO mini is ever perfect and you can use this to your advantage. Ask them what oil they use- a careful owner will use 20/50w as 20/40w causes premature wear. Its not a deal breaker but it will give you an idea as to how well the car is looked after. I would also join the mini forum and get to know their failings as minis do go wrong in many places. Good luck and if you need anything just ask
    Thanx man...To the yellow pages then

    This was posted from The Student Room's Android App on my GT-I9100
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    (Original post by quattro94)
    I would say £1200 is a little high. More like £500. It has a fair few mods so it would be pricey to insure. It also has had all the work done by an amateur - look at that door gap, its wonky. It looks good but I can see rust so give it 3 years and I dare say it will have lots of it. The condition of the subframes isn't mentioned at all, the suspension has been messed with and that is a real pain to sort if something isn't right. No mention of the gearbox. If that goes wrong then again its a big job. Well done for spotting but anyone thinking of buying had best take a mini expert with them as this seems too good to be true.
    You dont put A032R`s on something you dont intend to do properly.

    Why would in three years it have a load of rust. Stop chatting a load of rubbish.

    You dont put polybushes and Kad handbrake quadrants into a rotton rear subframe....its not hard to have a look to check all the bits there. They are blue and bright orange......

    Why would the suspension be problematic.....? Its got a set of shocks, its got some hi-lo cones. Most mini`s now have at least hi-lo`s on the front to correct rubber doughnut droop. Same goes for stage 1 kits. (For those who dont know, this involves an airfilter changed to a nice pretty one, an inlet manifold, a new better flowing exaust including manifold, and the bit to adjust the fueling in the carb)

    In terms of door gap. Thats about as good as it gets. line it up at the back or line it up at the front. Only way to get a good gap is to weld tig welding steel rods onto the outer door skin and smooth them in.

    Been there, done that. Thats about as good as factory gaps get.

    99% of cars you see for sale will mention nothing about the gearbox.
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    Looks a nice little car to me. I can't see any rust?
    Certainly one i'd be going to look at. Nothing wrong with the door gaps either.

    If it wasn't in scotland I might have a look myself.
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    (Original post by Sam Walters)
    You dont put A032R`s on something you dont intend to do properly.

    Why would in three years it have a load of rust. Stop chatting a load of rubbish.

    You dont put polybushes and Kad handbrake quadrants into a rotton rear subframe....its not hard to have a look to check all the bits there. They are blue and bright orange......

    Why would the suspension be problematic.....? Its got a set of shocks, its got some hi-lo cones. Most mini`s now have at least hi-lo`s on the front to correct rubber doughnut droop. Same goes for stage 1 kits. (For those who dont know, this involves an airfilter changed to a nice pretty one, an inlet manifold, a new better flowing exaust including manifold, and the bit to adjust the fueling in the carb)

    In terms of door gap. Thats about as good as it gets. line it up at the back or line it up at the front. Only way to get a good gap is to weld tig welding steel rods onto the outer door skin and smooth them in.

    Been there, done that. Thats about as good as factory gaps get.

    99% of cars you see for sale will mention nothing about the gearbox.
    You don't put yoko's on a car that you don't intend to do properly... right, ok look at half the classifieds and we will see if you change your mind . Plenty of people chase performance and cut corners. I drove my mini for 500 miles this winter and it went from rust free to now being in our garaged having the rust dealt with. I can see rust in the arches so it will come through the A panel and bulkhead if left. Mini's have been known to bubble up 6 months after a respray, my point is that shiny with mods is not always the way to go. OP would probably be better off with something more modest and some money left for repairs.

    Why would the suspension be a pain? have you ever changed cones? its a pig of a job. Hi-Los do NOT correct sagged cones. I'm having to replace mine due to someone having a that will do attitude. Sagged cones ride like S*** and it IS noticeable. Again stage 1 kits can be problematic, and there is no mention of a rolling road which is pretty essential.

    My door gaps are factory and better than that. So why are they out of line? accident damage? poor fitting? neither is desirable. You say 99% don't mention the gearbox. Maybe but this is supposed to be something special. With mods and an 18 year old gearbox that was run on 10/40 at some point I would want reassurance. I am probably being over picky but I hope you can see my points in that it might not be as good as it seems. Few people sell a car for 65% of its value and say they are in no rush to sell. I suppose that really we are speculating here so without driving it, we can only guess and the few niggles are just what I noticed. I apologise if I am seeming down on you but with my dad owning classics and repairing them for all my life, you start to become cynical.
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    (Original post by ken2)
    Thanx man...To the yellow pages then

    This was posted from The Student Room's Android App on my GT-I9100
    Hey thought you might appreciate some more info on minis

    This site is excellent, really useful info http://www.itsamini.co.uk/index.htm

    If you go to buy a mini I would bring this along with you http://www.minifinity.com/images/tec...s_guide1_2.pdf

    Hope this helps
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    (Original post by quattro94)
    You don't put yoko's on a car that you don't intend to do properly... right, ok look at half the classifieds and we will see if you change your mind . Plenty of people chase performance and cut corners. I drove my mini for 500 miles this winter and it went from rust free to now being in our garaged having the rust dealt with. I can see rust in the arches so it will come through the A panel and bulkhead if left. Mini's have been known to bubble up 6 months after a respray, my point is that shiny with mods is not always the way to go. OP would probably be better off with something more modest and some money left for repairs.

    Why would the suspension be a pain? have you ever changed cones? its a pig of a job. Hi-Los do NOT correct sagged cones. I'm having to replace mine due to someone having a that will do attitude. Sagged cones ride like S*** and it IS noticeable. Again stage 1 kits can be problematic, and there is no mention of a rolling road which is pretty essential.

    My door gaps are factory and better than that. So why are they out of line? accident damage? poor fitting? neither is desirable. You say 99% don't mention the gearbox. Maybe but this is supposed to be something special. With mods and an 18 year old gearbox that was run on 10/40 at some point I would want reassurance. I am probably being over picky but I hope you can see my points in that it might not be as good as it seems. Few people sell a car for 65% of its value and say they are in no rush to sell. I suppose that really we are speculating here so without driving it, we can only guess and the few niggles are just what I noticed. I apologise if I am seeming down on you but with my dad owning classics and repairing them for all my life, you start to become cynical.
    I didnt say the hi-lo`s were right. but this is what many people do.

    Door Gaps, mine are welded for this reason. You may have got lucky. Its worth noting the mini`s are hand built. Hence why the gaps are all over the place. You see gaps as bad as that in concourse original class.

    Also just to put you right on 10W40. Its the correct oil for the car in our climate. However using 10w50 wont make much odds. Not all oils are equal. 10W40 from halford is not the same as 10w40. Just to note. 10w50 from halford will destroy your cylinder walls. Its not the correct composition.

    The hype about the 10w50 has come about due to millers making an oil for the a-series transverse engine. It happened to be 10w50 as most of these engines are getting on a bit.

    I use silkolene pro 4. After sending my oil off for analysis a fair few times this has proven to be the best. The engine in my toy gets a rebuild every 3500-5000 miles. There is never normally any wear but asking a mini engine to pull 9000+ rpm is quite a tall order.

    You and your dad may have been repairing classics for years yet you think changing a set of cones is a hard job. There is no job on a mini that could be considered hard. Even the gearbox is fairly simple. I know, ive owned 10+ mini`s so far.
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    I can't see any rust in the arches? I can see waxoil deposits though?

    Unless you've actually been to see the car you can't realy comment with any authority. If you must have a cheap classic with an A series, look at a few MG midgets. Much better than a mini.
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    (Original post by Sam Walters)
    I didnt say the hi-lo`s were right. but this is what many people do.

    Door Gaps, mine are welded for this reason. You may have got lucky. Its worth noting the mini`s are hand built. Hence why the gaps are all over the place. You see gaps as bad as that in concourse original class.

    Also just to put you right on 10W40. Its the correct oil for the car in our climate. However using 10w50 wont make much odds. Not all oils are equal. 10W40 from halford is not the same as 10w40. Just to note. 10w50 from halford will destroy your cylinder walls. Its not the correct composition.

    The hype about the 10w50 has come about due to millers making an oil for the a-series transverse engine. It happened to be 10w50 as most of these engines are getting on a bit.

    I use silkolene pro 4. After sending my oil off for analysis a fair few times this has proven to be the best. The engine in my toy gets a rebuild every 3500-5000 miles. There is never normally any wear but asking a mini engine to pull 9000+ rpm is quite a tall order.

    You and your dad may have been repairing classics for years yet you think changing a set of cones is a hard job. There is no job on a mini that could be considered hard. Even the gearbox is fairly simple. I know, ive owned 10+ mini`s so far.
    20/50 is sworn by, its not just the engine but the gearbox that has to use the oil so 10/40 doesn't cut the mustard. Rover changed to 10/40 and had an increase in gearbox failures. Your mini is something else mind, so comparing my low mileage chugger to your full race screamer is a bit pointless. At the moment I have duckhams but I think next time around its going to be valvoline. I agree with the hellfrauds oil- I've heard some horror stories about that (on another note I went to get a bulb holder for the mini from halfords and the guys on the counter didn't know what it was :eek:) . As for the cones hard is the wrong word i suppose. Its more fiddley than difficult, the simplicity of minis is one of the many reasons I have one.
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    :confused: To be quiet frank, i dont get most of the mechanical jargon posted im really baffled. No worries i will just google what i dont understand

    This was posted from The Student Room's Android App on my GT-I9100
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    (Original post by quattro94)
    20/50 is sworn by, its not just the engine but the gearbox that has to use the oil so 10/40 doesn't cut the mustard. Rover changed to 10/40 and had an increase in gearbox failures. Your mini is something else mind, so comparing my low mileage chugger to your full race screamer is a bit pointless. At the moment I have duckhams but I think next time around its going to be valvoline. I agree with the hellfrauds oil- I've heard some horror stories about that (on another note I went to get a bulb holder for the mini from halfords and the guys on the counter didn't know what it was :eek:) . As for the cones hard is the wrong word i suppose. Its more fiddley than difficult, the simplicity of minis is one of the many reasons I have one.
    I dont see how the viscosity of oil can cause engine issues....But to be fair if they had an increase in failures it may be the content rather then the viscosity of the mixes.

    Nowadays oil is much better.

    The fundamentals are the same. They certainly are with my daily. Although I suspect the clearences on that engine are a bit tighter and in close to ideal spec given its 8,000 miles since it was rebored, cam bearings, ect ect.

    When i start rebuilding my **** heap of a daily mini ill put a project thread up on here.

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