Motorbike Society- IV
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Original post by 2Wheels&AnEngine
Ahh okay, well I guess it's one of those situations where I'll leave it till after my mod 1 & 2 exams and which are soon, and give companies a call... Any tips for mod 1 & 2? I'm excited and nervous at the same time 😩😂
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Practice mod 1 procedures in a car park if you have access to a small bike.
Mod 2, keep an eye on lifesavers, constantly.
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Original post by 2Wheels&AnEngine
That explains the high costs then. Damn.
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Original post by Motorbiker
Yup probably... Insurance in London is always much more expensive... I guess I just assumed you guys were from London too 😩 that's the thing though with the money spent on insurance I can buy an even better bike 😩
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Original post by Motorbiker
Practice mod 1 procedures in a car park if you have access to a small bike.
Mod 2, keep an eye on lifesavers, constantly.
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Mod 2, keep an eye on lifesavers, constantly.
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I've got a block course booked out for the 4 days before the exam so i should be fine right? 😩 I'm excited to get on a bike, tired of cars 😩
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Original post by 2Wheels&AnEngine
Oh and btw in addition to that, what website/company should I check for insurance with? I'm getting some silly quotes from "the bike insurer" thanks again
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Whack it into compare the market, cheapest for me has been mce
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In London, my sv1000s on the driveway is about £400 a year fully comp, with a silly excess though.
The most I have paid is about £500, but the was tpo (on either a fzs600 or the bros).
The most I have paid is about £500, but the was tpo (on either a fzs600 or the bros).
Original post by Boristhethird
In London, my sv1000s on the driveway is about £400 a year fully comp, with a silly excess though.
The most I have paid is about £500, but the was tpo (on either a fzs600 or the bros).
The most I have paid is about £500, but the was tpo (on either a fzs600 or the bros).
You've got to remember I have no no claims bonus and no years riding experience either... They always rip off new riders and drivers :/
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Original post by Imperial_Maniac
Thanks, I'll check it out later on
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Original post by 2Wheels&AnEngine
You've got to remember I have no no claims bonus and no years riding experience either... They always rip off new riders and drivers :/
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Posted from TSR Mobile
Yam sr125, 0 ncb, £265 tpo
Honda bros 400, 1 ncb, £350 tpo
Honda bros 400, 2 NCB, £450 tpo
yam fzs600, 3 ncb, £500
Original post by 2Wheels&AnEngine
It's always going to differ quite substantially person to person as quite a few things affect the pricing.
Original post by Boristhethird
Yam sr125, 0 ncb, £265 tpo
Honda bros 400, 1 ncb, £350 tpo
Honda bros 400, 2 NCB, £450 tpo
yam fzs600, 3 ncb, £500
Honda bros 400, 1 ncb, £350 tpo
Honda bros 400, 2 NCB, £450 tpo
yam fzs600, 3 ncb, £500
I got my SV for 145 tpo this year.
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We need to actually do the tsr bike so meet up this year, when are people free?
Original post by Imperial_Maniac
It'll get cheaper over time =p
Original post by Boristhethird
We need to actually do the tsr bike so meet up this year, when are people free?
No weekends at the moment. Can only get hours weds through to Sunday until they sort it.
BIG CATCH UP POST
Some of them mate. Been a bit quiet on that front; although I have done a couple recently. Not long come back from Scotland with a LOAD of video to work my way through.
Contrary to Motorbiker's advice below, manhole covers, potholes, white paint (other than mini roundabouts; always go around them) oil, diesel etc are fine to to ride over in the dry and in the wet. Make sure you're upright, you've brought your speed down a touch, and that you don't steer, accelerate or brake as you go across and you'll be good.
Leave the clutch alone in a situation like this. You did the right thing by coming off your revs but pulling the clutch in loses drive to the rear wheel, means you're coasting and increases the chances of locking the wheels up if you were to panic brake.
Completely agree.
Disagree. Bad advice. See above. Love you Martin.
Stuff highlighted in bold is pretty much spot on for every gear change down; 4th to 3rd, 3rd to 2nd etc. Don't just rely on your gear changes to slow you down; use your brakes so that A) the procedure is a lot smoother and B) road users behind you know what you're doing because they'll see your brake light.
The reason the bike "revs high and sort of lurches forward" could be down to a bit of poor clutch control but more than likely, it's because you're going too fast for the gear you want to go into. Think of your speed and gears like this; 1st gear = 10mph, 2nd gear = 20mph, 3rd gear = 30mph etc. It applies to changing up gears as well as changing down gears.
Surprisingly, not true. Providing your bike meets the requirements for the category of licence you're choosing, you don't have to have any help from a training school. Why anyone ever would, I don't know, but it is possible.
Original post by F4LL3N
Landy - have you taken down your VLOGS?
Some of them mate. Been a bit quiet on that front; although I have done a couple recently. Not long come back from Scotland with a LOAD of video to work my way through.
Original post by Bioscientist_
Everything seems to be a danger trap! Manhole covers are absolutely everywhere, the white lines are slippery as anything and the bike wobbles whenever I go over them.
I quite quickly got my feet down to steady myself (whilst sliding along and wobbling all over the place) killed the throttle and engaged the clutch I reckon I would've ended up hitting the island.
I quite quickly got my feet down to steady myself (whilst sliding along and wobbling all over the place) killed the throttle and engaged the clutch I reckon I would've ended up hitting the island.
Contrary to Motorbiker's advice below, manhole covers, potholes, white paint (other than mini roundabouts; always go around them) oil, diesel etc are fine to to ride over in the dry and in the wet. Make sure you're upright, you've brought your speed down a touch, and that you don't steer, accelerate or brake as you go across and you'll be good.
Leave the clutch alone in a situation like this. You did the right thing by coming off your revs but pulling the clutch in loses drive to the rear wheel, means you're coasting and increases the chances of locking the wheels up if you were to panic brake.
Original post by Motorbiker
Riding in the rain sucks.
You want to avoid manhole covers completely
You want to avoid manhole covers completely
Completely agree.
Disagree. Bad advice. See above. Love you Martin.
Original post by IcomeinPeace
More noobie questions
When I'm travelling at speed on say 4th gear, as I spot a junction/roundabout/traffic ahead, then I gradually lower my gear down to 2nd and slow down, then if I have to stop then I : throttle off -> bit of front brake -> bit of rear brake -> clutch in -> move down gear so i'm ready to move again.
Is this the correct procedure?
Also as I'm moving at high speed on a high gear, and then I select a lower gear - the bike revs high and sort of lurches forward. Is this just poor clutch control or normal?
When I'm travelling at speed on say 4th gear, as I spot a junction/roundabout/traffic ahead, then I gradually lower my gear down to 2nd and slow down, then if I have to stop then I : throttle off -> bit of front brake -> bit of rear brake -> clutch in -> move down gear so i'm ready to move again.
Is this the correct procedure?
Also as I'm moving at high speed on a high gear, and then I select a lower gear - the bike revs high and sort of lurches forward. Is this just poor clutch control or normal?
Stuff highlighted in bold is pretty much spot on for every gear change down; 4th to 3rd, 3rd to 2nd etc. Don't just rely on your gear changes to slow you down; use your brakes so that A) the procedure is a lot smoother and B) road users behind you know what you're doing because they'll see your brake light.
The reason the bike "revs high and sort of lurches forward" could be down to a bit of poor clutch control but more than likely, it's because you're going too fast for the gear you want to go into. Think of your speed and gears like this; 1st gear = 10mph, 2nd gear = 20mph, 3rd gear = 30mph etc. It applies to changing up gears as well as changing down gears.
Original post by Imperial_Maniac
Nope, you have to rent the bike of them because you need to pass the test on a bike of a certain size, power etc and you can't do that on an A2 license unless you're with the training instructor/centre.
Surprisingly, not true. Providing your bike meets the requirements for the category of licence you're choosing, you don't have to have any help from a training school. Why anyone ever would, I don't know, but it is possible.
Original post by LandyJon
BIG CATCH UP POST
Some of them mate. Been a bit quiet on that front; although I have done a couple recently. Not long come back from Scotland with a LOAD of video to work my way through.
Contrary to Motorbiker's advice below, manhole covers, potholes, white paint (other than mini roundabouts; always go around them) oil, diesel etc are fine to to ride over in the dry and in the wet. Make sure you're upright, you've brought your speed down a touch, and that you don't steer, accelerate or brake as you go across and you'll be good.
Leave the clutch alone in a situation like this. You did the right thing by coming off your revs but pulling the clutch in loses drive to the rear wheel, means you're coasting and increases the chances of locking the wheels up if you were to panic brake.
Completely agree.
Disagree. Bad advice. See above. Love you Martin.
Stuff highlighted in bold is pretty much spot on for every gear change down; 4th to 3rd, 3rd to 2nd etc. Don't just rely on your gear changes to slow you down; use your brakes so that A) the procedure is a lot smoother and B) road users behind you know what you're doing because they'll see your brake light.
The reason the bike "revs high and sort of lurches forward" could be down to a bit of poor clutch control but more than likely, it's because you're going too fast for the gear you want to go into. Think of your speed and gears like this; 1st gear = 10mph, 2nd gear = 20mph, 3rd gear = 30mph etc. It applies to changing up gears as well as changing down gears.
Surprisingly, not true. Providing your bike meets the requirements for the category of licence you're choosing, you don't have to have any help from a training school. Why anyone ever would, I don't know, but it is possible.
Some of them mate. Been a bit quiet on that front; although I have done a couple recently. Not long come back from Scotland with a LOAD of video to work my way through.
Contrary to Motorbiker's advice below, manhole covers, potholes, white paint (other than mini roundabouts; always go around them) oil, diesel etc are fine to to ride over in the dry and in the wet. Make sure you're upright, you've brought your speed down a touch, and that you don't steer, accelerate or brake as you go across and you'll be good.
Leave the clutch alone in a situation like this. You did the right thing by coming off your revs but pulling the clutch in loses drive to the rear wheel, means you're coasting and increases the chances of locking the wheels up if you were to panic brake.
Completely agree.
Disagree. Bad advice. See above. Love you Martin.
Stuff highlighted in bold is pretty much spot on for every gear change down; 4th to 3rd, 3rd to 2nd etc. Don't just rely on your gear changes to slow you down; use your brakes so that A) the procedure is a lot smoother and B) road users behind you know what you're doing because they'll see your brake light.
The reason the bike "revs high and sort of lurches forward" could be down to a bit of poor clutch control but more than likely, it's because you're going too fast for the gear you want to go into. Think of your speed and gears like this; 1st gear = 10mph, 2nd gear = 20mph, 3rd gear = 30mph etc. It applies to changing up gears as well as changing down gears.
Surprisingly, not true. Providing your bike meets the requirements for the category of licence you're choosing, you don't have to have any help from a training school. Why anyone ever would, I don't know, but it is possible.
Ah thx
So I can hire a 500cc motorcycle and then complete my A2 license test using that?
Original post by IcomeinPeace
Ah thx
So I can hire a 500cc motorcycle and then complete my A2 license test using that?
So I can hire a 500cc motorcycle and then complete my A2 license test using that?
Depends if you can get insurance
Original post by LandyJon
BIG CATCH UP POST
Some of them mate. Been a bit quiet on that front; although I have done a couple recently. Not long come back from Scotland with a LOAD of video to work my way through.
Contrary to Motorbiker's advice below, manhole covers, potholes, white paint (other than mini roundabouts; always go around them) oil, diesel etc are fine to to ride over in the dry and in the wet. Make sure you're upright, you've brought your speed down a touch, and that you don't steer, accelerate or brake as you go across and you'll be good.
Leave the clutch alone in a situation like this. You did the right thing by coming off your revs but pulling the clutch in loses drive to the rear wheel, means you're coasting and increases the chances of locking the wheels up if you were to panic brake.
Completely agree.
Disagree. Bad advice. See above. Love you Martin.
Stuff highlighted in bold is pretty much spot on for every gear change down; 4th to 3rd, 3rd to 2nd etc. Don't just rely on your gear changes to slow you down; use your brakes so that A) the procedure is a lot smoother and B) road users behind you know what you're doing because they'll see your brake light.
The reason the bike "revs high and sort of lurches forward" could be down to a bit of poor clutch control but more than likely, it's because you're going too fast for the gear you want to go into. Think of your speed and gears like this; 1st gear = 10mph, 2nd gear = 20mph, 3rd gear = 30mph etc. It applies to changing up gears as well as changing down gears.
Surprisingly, not true. Providing your bike meets the requirements for the category of licence you're choosing, you don't have to have any help from a training school. Why anyone ever would, I don't know, but it is possible.
Some of them mate. Been a bit quiet on that front; although I have done a couple recently. Not long come back from Scotland with a LOAD of video to work my way through.
Contrary to Motorbiker's advice below, manhole covers, potholes, white paint (other than mini roundabouts; always go around them) oil, diesel etc are fine to to ride over in the dry and in the wet. Make sure you're upright, you've brought your speed down a touch, and that you don't steer, accelerate or brake as you go across and you'll be good.
Leave the clutch alone in a situation like this. You did the right thing by coming off your revs but pulling the clutch in loses drive to the rear wheel, means you're coasting and increases the chances of locking the wheels up if you were to panic brake.
Completely agree.
Disagree. Bad advice. See above. Love you Martin.
Stuff highlighted in bold is pretty much spot on for every gear change down; 4th to 3rd, 3rd to 2nd etc. Don't just rely on your gear changes to slow you down; use your brakes so that A) the procedure is a lot smoother and B) road users behind you know what you're doing because they'll see your brake light.
The reason the bike "revs high and sort of lurches forward" could be down to a bit of poor clutch control but more than likely, it's because you're going too fast for the gear you want to go into. Think of your speed and gears like this; 1st gear = 10mph, 2nd gear = 20mph, 3rd gear = 30mph etc. It applies to changing up gears as well as changing down gears.
Surprisingly, not true. Providing your bike meets the requirements for the category of licence you're choosing, you don't have to have any help from a training school. Why anyone ever would, I don't know, but it is possible.
I agree you can ride over manhole covers etc sensibly but just avoiding them seems the easier option. Unless people will be encouraged to ride recklessly to try avoiding them.
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Original post by Motorbiker
I agree you can ride over manhole covers etc sensibly but just avoiding them seems the easier option. Unless people will be encouraged to ride recklessly to try avoiding them.
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Posted from TSR Mobile
But some people who avoid them just swerve randomly, rather than spot it and sensibly changing position, which will spook those behind and if its wet they are more likely to lose control.
I've never had an issue riding over them, jst make sure i'm upright.
Boris its the essex air ambulance this sunday, you going?
Landy - I understand. Have you changed the link or removed the existing videos? My blog is showing nothing anymore which is a bit strange. I'll try and fix it if there is a problem, or remove it if you've taken away the videos.
Also - for the member who asked about junctions I have done a blog post. Landy - if you'd like to add anything or think I have missed anything out feel free to let me know. It is only a basic overview of OSMPSL. I haven't been instructing for long so your input is always valued.
http://mcblogspot83.blogspot.co.uk/2015/09/what-is-correct-procedure-for-dealing.html
Also - for the member who asked about junctions I have done a blog post. Landy - if you'd like to add anything or think I have missed anything out feel free to let me know. It is only a basic overview of OSMPSL. I haven't been instructing for long so your input is always valued.
http://mcblogspot83.blogspot.co.uk/2015/09/what-is-correct-procedure-for-dealing.html
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