The Student Room Group

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Reply 1
move off and stop normally however, when stood still do not depress the clutch but nock the car out of gear and apply the handbrake to save wear on the clutch release bearing.
So is it just a combination of the footbrake and clutch? Or can you actually stop and start using the clutch alone? I don't even know if the latter is possible, I'm really new to driving!
Reply 3
It can creep forward with the clutch just down so its a combination of clutch and brakes but mostly clutch. You can probably move without having to actually stop in a lot of times so you can just coast it.
I dont know if this is relevant but my driving instructor always taught me that if you are stationary or are going to be stationary for more than 5 seconds you should handbrake neutral it. He always used eexamples like slow moving traffic or pulling away from a busy junction :biggrin:

dont know why you would bother with that in traffic though unless you were not moving anywhere
louisedotcom
I dont know if this is relevant but my driving instructor always taught me that if you are stationary or are going to be stationary for more than 5 seconds you should handbrake neutral it. He always used eexamples like slow moving traffic or pulling away from a busy junction :biggrin:


To be honest I think that advice is poor, especially at a Junction. You need to be ready to pull away at the next available opportunity, which you can't do quickly if you're faffing around putting it into gear.
Reply 6
bigred
To be honest I think that advice is poor, especially at a Junction. You need to be ready to pull away at the next available opportunity, which you can't do quickly if you're faffing around putting it into gear.


Ditto
Reply 7
Always stay in gear at a junction, don't remember my instructor telling me to go to neutral at a junction....doesnt make sense.

In traffic i just do clutch down and footbrake unless its on a steep hill then its handbrake or just try not to stop
Reply 8
To op, cover the brake with your right foot, find your bite but it needs to be slightly lower (if that makes sense), let the brake go and put a little gas when you want to go forward. Apply brake and clutch when stopping at intervals. Traffic actaully means your feet are working overtime. Best to ask your instructor as in case these are all my own bad habits
The nuetral suggestion is probably to secure your car so you do not stall or move forwad (with the handbrake) - safety is more important that quick progress :biggrin:

In very slow moving traffic I just go forward with the cluth very slowly. when i get bored or my leg hurts i neutal and handbrake it. when i start moving i'll go back in first and move and as i slow down again i'll move forward with the clutch..
Reply 10
Re: leg hurts. Dont you just hate slow moving traffic? Everytime i see long ques, i curse them and shot masses of insults to anyone. I hate them
Reply 11
If you have a heavy clutch, put some WD40 on the clutch cable and get a mate to pump the clutch cable while you spray. Makes the clutch a lot lighter!

:smile:
gbduo
If you have a heavy clutch, put some WD40 on the clutch cable and get a mate to pump the clutch cable while you spray. Makes the clutch a lot lighter!

:smile:


wont that then mess up your biting point? will it also make the biting point a lot less 'hard' and harder to control?
Reply 13
Citroen AXs don't like queues in the heat, as I discovered on two separate occasions.
Reply 14
Clubber Lang
wont that then mess up your biting point? will it also make the biting point a lot less 'hard' and harder to control?


Not really, as the biting point is something in the clutch, by lubricating the clutch cable you are not moving the biting point, you are just making the clutch cable easier to move, which if anything should make finding the biting point easier as the cable does not jerk, get stuck or is very heavy.
Reply 15
My instructor only told me specifically to go into neutral and use the handbrake if I'm in say a queue behind few cars at traffic lights. Me being in neutral doesn't really matter then - as I have ample time to put it in 1st and be ready to move off. You should really put on your handbrake when you stop in slow moving traffic - you don't want the guy at the back to plough into you and then in turn make you plough into the guy in front...

I normally just stay in gear when first or near the very front of a queue.
I usually just bring the clutch up a bit (in my 306 TD) to get the car moving slowly, using gas as required. The clutch is very heavy on my car so its an absolute nightmare - I try to fully engage the clutch at the slowest possible speed without it stalling to avoid both excessive wear on the clutch and on my leg lol.

I use the handbrake only when I know I'll be stopped for at least 20 seconds or so. Generally hold the car on the footbrake at other times.

One point - I try to avoid using the brake at all in traffic. Especially on a motorway with heavy traffic. The more people brake, the more the person behind brakes (to a slightly lower speed) and it goes on and on and on. Heavy traffic and queues are caused most often by people tailgating and using excessive braking.
Reply 17
Hmm front of traffic light (in a 1.25 Fiesta) definitely in gear and no handbrake AFTER passing driving test. And a lot of clutchy clutch in slow moving traffic.

Handbrake on hills and middle of long traffic light queue, but with footbrake on so light is on if I am at the back so cars can see I have stopped.

I have also tried switching the engine off and back on again in traffic jams, but other drivers think you cant drive and keep stalling or something.
Reply 18
I personally find it much easier to have the handbreak on rather than the foot break. It takes a second to release so I don't know why some people are against using it.
DartsOfPleasure
This is probably going to sound so stupid, but how should you stop/start in slow moving traffic? Say if there is a long que, that's moving slowly but stopping for at intervals.

Thanks :redface:


Just aim not to stop, when the cars in front move off, wait a bit to build up a buffer and then just crawl along in first gear just above idle, adjusting it so by the time you catch up to the stationary cars they're just moving off again. One million times easier.

If there's a long stop, I just handbrake and neutral it when my feet get bored.

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