If a car has sat for 20+ years in a barn... what would I need to do.
What would I need to do to start a car that has been sitting in a barn for the last 20+ years?
Car was in perfect working condition before it was last used.
Am told there is at least 3/4 tank of fuel in it (petrol)
Advice please.
If it helps, car in question is a Jaguar Mk2
Car was in perfect working condition before it was last used.
Am told there is at least 3/4 tank of fuel in it (petrol)
Advice please.
If it helps, car in question is a Jaguar Mk2
(edited 13 years ago)
Scroll to see replies
Well the engine if it hasn't been turned over will be difficult to start/not start at all.
Despite being stored in a barn, it's still succeptible to rust.
The fuel should be fine otherwise. I'm no mechanic/expert when it comes to this sort of stuff I'm afraid, but maybe try googling or researching into the matter (try a specialist Jag forum or something?).
Despite being stored in a barn, it's still succeptible to rust.
The fuel should be fine otherwise. I'm no mechanic/expert when it comes to this sort of stuff I'm afraid, but maybe try googling or researching into the matter (try a specialist Jag forum or something?).
Take a new battery or even a crank handle
Theres petrol in it? Probably worth more than the car given the current price of petrol 
Seriously though.
Replacing the battery will be the first thing as it will be flat. Then you'll need to inspect the engine, most parts will probably have seized up because of 20 years of no use (presuming you're not exaggerating).
Brakes will be seized, the engine won't be lubricated, rust on calipers etc.
Everything will need checking. A nightmare to someone or a project for another. Enjoy.
Seriously though.
Replacing the battery will be the first thing as it will be flat. Then you'll need to inspect the engine, most parts will probably have seized up because of 20 years of no use (presuming you're not exaggerating).
Brakes will be seized, the engine won't be lubricated, rust on calipers etc.
Everything will need checking. A nightmare to someone or a project for another. Enjoy.
change the oil, top the water, stick a new battery in, turn the engine from the crank a few times just to check that its turning good, turn the key and hope it starts lol o yeh if it dont start then the fuel might have gone off so u may want to drain it and put some fresh new petrol in
if the engines siezed then you can try ur luck by taking out the spark plugs and puttin a cap full of oil in each cylinder leave it for a few days and try turn it over a few times, youd be better off with a whole engine rebuild if that happens lol
o yeh if it dont start then the fuel might have gone off so u may want to drain it and put some fresh new petrol inif the engines siezed then you can try ur luck by taking out the spark plugs and puttin a cap full of oil in each cylinder leave it for a few days and try turn it over a few times, youd be better off with a whole engine rebuild if that happens lol
(edited 13 years ago)
buy new one
Original post by Genocidal
Check if it still works would be a good start.
no it wouldn't
fuel goes 'off', trying to start it would move bad petrol though the engine, spreading gunk everywhere
OP, id:
-drain and replace oils, and petrol.
-clean the air filter
-try starting it, jump start if you can, as the battery will be knackered, but no point buying a new one if the car is far from working anyway
-post up the symptoms of it not working on TSR (or motoring forums)
I think you need to read up on car restoration first.
The first thing to do is move it via a trailer to where you are going to carry out the work and have your tools etc.
The first thing to do is move it via a trailer to where you are going to carry out the work and have your tools etc.
Original post by motorsportUK
The first thing to do is move it via a trailer to where you are going to carry out the work and have your tools etc.
The first thing to do is move it via a trailer to where you are going to carry out the work and have your tools etc.
That is the problem. The barn it is sitting in is in a weird position where it is difficult for a trailer to get in there. Only way to get it on to a trailer is to drive it at least 1/2 a mile or so up a rather steep hill that has a 4 very tight hairpin turns which is impossible to do.
Original post by Boristhethird
no it wouldn't
fuel goes 'off', trying to start it would move bad petrol though the engine, spreading gunk everywhere
OP, id:
-drain and replace oils, and petrol.
-clean the air filter
-try starting it, jump start if you can, as the battery will be knackered, but no point buying a new one if the car is far from working anyway
-post up the symptoms of it not working on TSR (eor motoring forums)
fuel goes 'off', trying to start it would move bad petrol though the engine, spreading gunk everywhere
OP, id:
-drain and replace oils, and petrol.
-clean the air filter
-try starting it, jump start if you can, as the battery will be knackered, but no point buying a new one if the car is far from working anyway
-post up the symptoms of it not working on TSR (eor motoring forums)
Will do that as a bare minimum.
Original post by Manesh2468
change the oil, top the water, stick a new battery in, turn the engine from the crank a few times just to check that its turning good, turn the key and hope it starts lol o yeh if it dont start then the fuel might have gone off so u may want to drain it and put some fresh new petrol in
if the engines siezed then you can try ur luck by taking out the spark plugs and puttin a cap full of oil in each cylinder leave it for a few days and try turn it over a few times, youd be better off with a whole engine rebuild if that happens lol
o yeh if it dont start then the fuel might have gone off so u may want to drain it and put some fresh new petrol inif the engines siezed then you can try ur luck by taking out the spark plugs and puttin a cap full of oil in each cylinder leave it for a few days and try turn it over a few times, youd be better off with a whole engine rebuild if that happens lol
I hope the engine isn't seized up. Am told by the person having custody of it that the engine can still turn, no idea how she knows.
Original post by Jmzie-Coupe
Theres petrol in it? Probably worth more than the car given the current price of petrol
Seriously though.
Replacing the battery will be the first thing as it will be flat. Then you'll need to inspect the engine, most parts will probably have seized up because of 20 years of no use (presuming you're not exaggerating).
Brakes will be seized, the engine won't be lubricated, rust on calipers etc.
Everything will need checking. A nightmare to someone or a project for another. Enjoy.
Seriously though.
Replacing the battery will be the first thing as it will be flat. Then you'll need to inspect the engine, most parts will probably have seized up because of 20 years of no use (presuming you're not exaggerating).
Brakes will be seized, the engine won't be lubricated, rust on calipers etc.
Everything will need checking. A nightmare to someone or a project for another. Enjoy.
Car was last driven in 1988, it was restored and rebuilt then, was only driven every now and then for 2 months. The previous keeper is my aunt's late husband who went missing while trekking in Nepal.... She has only now decided to move on.... or rather she has decided it's time to get rid of everything and move to Australia to be with her son.
Original post by iPodAddict93
Well the engine if it hasn't been turned over will be difficult to start/not start at all.
Despite being stored in a barn, it's still succeptible to rust.
The fuel should be fine otherwise. I'm no mechanic/expert when it comes to this sort of stuff I'm afraid, but maybe try googling or researching into the matter (try a specialist Jag forum or something?).
Despite being stored in a barn, it's still succeptible to rust.
The fuel should be fine otherwise. I'm no mechanic/expert when it comes to this sort of stuff I'm afraid, but maybe try googling or researching into the matter (try a specialist Jag forum or something?).
Heh don't want to post it on any of the automotive forums as many know me in person.... don't want to let them know I'm going into classics
Surprisingly, there is hardly any rust on it,
If it's a manual the clutch may well have seized, so make sure it's in neutral before you try to start it. If it is seized then push the car outside and basically hammer the clutch until it frees off (rolling along in first while pressing the brakes as hard as you can, putting your foot down and then lifting off again, basically jerking it around until it frees). If it's an auto one or more of the clutches in the box again may be seized and you might have problems with the box not changing up or down properly, and there might also be problems with the torque converter. These may drive themselves off, or need further attention, but it's impossible to say without playing with the car. That said, it may well simply start up with the a fresh battery.
The tyres may well foobared too, check for cracking along the sidewalls. If cracking is in evidence then don't attempt to drive at any kind of speed (not that you would anyway, seeing as you can't drive it on the road
)
The tyres may well foobared too, check for cracking along the sidewalls. If cracking is in evidence then don't attempt to drive at any kind of speed (not that you would anyway, seeing as you can't drive it on the road
)
XK engines are fragile things so there are a few things to do. (I'm assuming it's actually a MK2 and not a damiler 250V8)
1) First of all check the colour of the oil. If it's nice and clean you're off to a good start. If it's black you may as well give up because the acidity of the oil will have eaten through the shell bearings. If it's black just pull the engine out and rebuild it.
2) Assuming the oil is a healthy colour, drain it and fill it with fresh.
3) take out the spark plugs and put some oil down the bores.
4) Get out the breaker bar and try and turn the engine over by hand
5) when you can turn the engine completely over a full cycle check that you can get the 'box in neutral.
6) block off the fuel supply - take the fuel pipe off and put a bolt or a screwdriver up it so no manky fuel can come through.
7) Spin the engine over on the starter until you see it make oil pressure on the guage - should be about 20psi on an XK engine. If the battery is goosed either swap it or take a jump from another car.
8) Put the spark plugs back in and check you have a spark.
9) Under the arse end of the car there will be a little bolt on plate remove this
10) you should be able to see the bottom of the fuel tank now. Remove the sump to drain the tank - I think it's a 9/16" socket.
11) You should be able to see the fuel pickup pipe. Check that to make sure it's clear from crud. Also wash out the sump with some fresh fuel.
12) Replace the sump and fill with 1 gallon of petrol.
13) remove the air box from the carbs.
14) Remove the dashpot filler and undo the three bolts holding the dashpot top to the top of the carbs.
15) withdraw the piston and clean with carb cleaner - the finger prints on your fingers are abrasive enough to clean off any old petrol deposits.
16) reassemble the carbs and pour a little 20w/50 down the dashpot. You should then put your finger into the mouth of the carb and work the piston up and down a few times to make sure it's free. Don't forget to re-connect up the fuel supply at this point.
17) Put the key in the ignition and turn it. You should hear a ticking that will eventually stop - this is the fuel pump pressurising the system.
18) Slide the choke control lever to the fully on position - it's the little sliding controll to the right of the key.
19) On the centre panel in the dash there will be a little black button - this is the starter button. Push it.
It'll churn over for a bit but it should fire if everything else above was followed.
20) work the throttle pedal a little bit. It will take eventually.
-JC.
1) First of all check the colour of the oil. If it's nice and clean you're off to a good start. If it's black you may as well give up because the acidity of the oil will have eaten through the shell bearings. If it's black just pull the engine out and rebuild it.
2) Assuming the oil is a healthy colour, drain it and fill it with fresh.
3) take out the spark plugs and put some oil down the bores.
4) Get out the breaker bar and try and turn the engine over by hand
5) when you can turn the engine completely over a full cycle check that you can get the 'box in neutral.
6) block off the fuel supply - take the fuel pipe off and put a bolt or a screwdriver up it so no manky fuel can come through.
7) Spin the engine over on the starter until you see it make oil pressure on the guage - should be about 20psi on an XK engine. If the battery is goosed either swap it or take a jump from another car.
8) Put the spark plugs back in and check you have a spark.
9) Under the arse end of the car there will be a little bolt on plate remove this
10) you should be able to see the bottom of the fuel tank now. Remove the sump to drain the tank - I think it's a 9/16" socket.
11) You should be able to see the fuel pickup pipe. Check that to make sure it's clear from crud. Also wash out the sump with some fresh fuel.
12) Replace the sump and fill with 1 gallon of petrol.
13) remove the air box from the carbs.
14) Remove the dashpot filler and undo the three bolts holding the dashpot top to the top of the carbs.
15) withdraw the piston and clean with carb cleaner - the finger prints on your fingers are abrasive enough to clean off any old petrol deposits.
16) reassemble the carbs and pour a little 20w/50 down the dashpot. You should then put your finger into the mouth of the carb and work the piston up and down a few times to make sure it's free. Don't forget to re-connect up the fuel supply at this point.
17) Put the key in the ignition and turn it. You should hear a ticking that will eventually stop - this is the fuel pump pressurising the system.
18) Slide the choke control lever to the fully on position - it's the little sliding controll to the right of the key.
19) On the centre panel in the dash there will be a little black button - this is the starter button. Push it.
It'll churn over for a bit but it should fire if everything else above was followed.
20) work the throttle pedal a little bit. It will take eventually.
-JC.
(edited 13 years ago)
Original post by JC.
XK engines are fragile things so there are a few things to do. (I'm assuming it's actually a MK2 and not a damiler 250V8)
1) First of all check the colour of the oil. If it's nice and clean you're off to a good start. If it's black you may as well give up because the acidity of the oil will have eaten through the shell bearings. If it's black just pull the engine out and rebuild it.
2) Assuming the oil is a healthy colour, drain it and fill it with fresh.
3) take out the spark plugs and put some oil down the bores.
4) Get out the breaker bar and try and turn the engine over by hand
5) when you can turn the engine completely over a full cycle check that you can get the 'box in neutral.
6) block off the fuel supply - take the fuel pipe off and put a bolt or a screwdriver up it so no manky fuel can come through.
7) Spin the engine over on the starter until you see it make oil pressure on the guage - should be about 20psi on an XK engine. If the battery is goosed either swap it or take a jump from another car.
8) Put the spark plugs back in and check you have a spark.
9) Under the arse end of the car there will be a little bolt on plate remove this
10) you should be able to see the bottom of the fuel tank now. Remove the sump to drain the tank - I think it's a 9/16" socket.
11) You should be able to see the fuel pickup pipe. Check that to make sure it's clear from crud. Also wash out the sump with some fresh fuel.
12) Replace the sump and fill with 1 gallon of petrol.
13) remove the air box from the carbs.
14) Remove the dashpot filler and undo the three bolts holding the dashpot top to the top of the carbs.
15) withdraw the piston and clean with carb cleaner - the finger prints on your fingers are abrasive enough to clean off any old petrol deposits.
16) reassemble the carbs and pour a little 20w/50 down the dashpot. You should then put your finger into the mouth of the carb and work the piston up and down a few times to make sure it's free.
17) Put the key in the ignition and turn it. You should hear a ticking that will eventually stop - this is the fuel pump pressurising the system.
18) Slide the choke control lever to the fully on position - it's the little sliding controll to the right of the key.
19) On the centre panel in the dash there will be a little black button - this is the starter button. Push it.
It'll churn over for a bit but it should fire if everything else above was followed.
-JC.
20) work the throttle pedal a little bit. It will take
1) First of all check the colour of the oil. If it's nice and clean you're off to a good start. If it's black you may as well give up because the acidity of the oil will have eaten through the shell bearings. If it's black just pull the engine out and rebuild it.
2) Assuming the oil is a healthy colour, drain it and fill it with fresh.
3) take out the spark plugs and put some oil down the bores.
4) Get out the breaker bar and try and turn the engine over by hand
5) when you can turn the engine completely over a full cycle check that you can get the 'box in neutral.
6) block off the fuel supply - take the fuel pipe off and put a bolt or a screwdriver up it so no manky fuel can come through.
7) Spin the engine over on the starter until you see it make oil pressure on the guage - should be about 20psi on an XK engine. If the battery is goosed either swap it or take a jump from another car.
8) Put the spark plugs back in and check you have a spark.
9) Under the arse end of the car there will be a little bolt on plate remove this
10) you should be able to see the bottom of the fuel tank now. Remove the sump to drain the tank - I think it's a 9/16" socket.
11) You should be able to see the fuel pickup pipe. Check that to make sure it's clear from crud. Also wash out the sump with some fresh fuel.
12) Replace the sump and fill with 1 gallon of petrol.
13) remove the air box from the carbs.
14) Remove the dashpot filler and undo the three bolts holding the dashpot top to the top of the carbs.
15) withdraw the piston and clean with carb cleaner - the finger prints on your fingers are abrasive enough to clean off any old petrol deposits.
16) reassemble the carbs and pour a little 20w/50 down the dashpot. You should then put your finger into the mouth of the carb and work the piston up and down a few times to make sure it's free.
17) Put the key in the ignition and turn it. You should hear a ticking that will eventually stop - this is the fuel pump pressurising the system.
18) Slide the choke control lever to the fully on position - it's the little sliding controll to the right of the key.
19) On the centre panel in the dash there will be a little black button - this is the starter button. Push it.
It'll churn over for a bit but it should fire if everything else above was followed.
-JC.
20) work the throttle pedal a little bit. It will take
What he said
Jaguar Mk.2 i.e. the Inspector Morse car?
Remember to fill the car up with BP Ultimate or Shell V-Power and then add lead replacement to stop any valve seat wear.
Any oils you use, make sure they are classic oils, I think the grade for the E-Type is 20w50 MINERAL oil, not semi synthetic or synthetic! Millers Oils are the norm.
Join the Jaguar Enthusiasts Club and go on their boards and ask the experts on there. J.C.s advice is good, but it is not exhaustive, on a car worth so much money nowadays, I would want to make sure that I am not going to knacker the engine.
Remember to replace the gearbox and diff oils when you replace the engine oil. You will also need to replace the brake fluid and clutch fluid. I would change the antifreeze as well.
To be honest, I would be tempted to just take the car to an expert to get it running, the Mk.II straight 6 engine although simple will require tuning if it has been sat for so long. Ask the JEC guys who is your local Mk.II specialist.
If you are around Reading/Basingstoke, Graham Bull is exceptionally good with E-Types/Mk.II, PM me if you need any info.
Get advice from the JEC!
Graham
Remember to fill the car up with BP Ultimate or Shell V-Power and then add lead replacement to stop any valve seat wear.
Any oils you use, make sure they are classic oils, I think the grade for the E-Type is 20w50 MINERAL oil, not semi synthetic or synthetic! Millers Oils are the norm.
Join the Jaguar Enthusiasts Club and go on their boards and ask the experts on there. J.C.s advice is good, but it is not exhaustive, on a car worth so much money nowadays, I would want to make sure that I am not going to knacker the engine.
Remember to replace the gearbox and diff oils when you replace the engine oil. You will also need to replace the brake fluid and clutch fluid. I would change the antifreeze as well.
To be honest, I would be tempted to just take the car to an expert to get it running, the Mk.II straight 6 engine although simple will require tuning if it has been sat for so long. Ask the JEC guys who is your local Mk.II specialist.
If you are around Reading/Basingstoke, Graham Bull is exceptionally good with E-Types/Mk.II, PM me if you need any info.
Get advice from the JEC!
Graham
Original post by Iorek
I hope the engine isn't seized up. Am told by the person having custody of it that the engine can still turn, no idea how she knows.
if it is turning then just change the oil, drain fuel, maybe new spark plugs to speed things up, new fuel, i dno if they used unleaded or leaded fuel got no idea about that but it might be worth finding out, put a new battery in and hope the old girl starts, oil filter and fuel filter too, and that start up spray is very useful the one that says on the can "start ya (person that is given birth to when parents aint married l0l you know what i mean...)" and gl with it.
Original post by Iorek
Car was last driven in 1988, it was restored and rebuilt then, was only driven every now and then for 2 months. The previous keeper is my aunt's late husband who went missing while trekking in Nepal.... She has only now decided to move on.... or rather she has decided it's time to get rid of everything and move to Australia to be with her son.
Car was last driven in 1988, it was restored and rebuilt then, was only driven every now and then for 2 months. The previous keeper is my aunt's late husband who went missing while trekking in Nepal.... She has only now decided to move on.... or rather she has decided it's time to get rid of everything and move to Australia to be with her son.
Great.
Original post by gbduo
Jaguar Mk.2 i.e. the Inspector Morse car?
Remember to fill the car up with BP Ultimate or Shell V-Power and then add lead replacement to stop any valve seat wear.
Any oils you use, make sure they are classic oils, I think the grade for the E-Type is 20w50 MINERAL oil, not semi synthetic or synthetic! Millers Oils are the norm.
Join the Jaguar Enthusiasts Club and go on their boards and ask the experts on there. J.C.s advice is good, but it is not exhaustive, on a car worth so much money nowadays, I would want to make sure that I am not going to knacker the engine.
Remember to replace the gearbox and diff oils when you replace the engine oil. You will also need to replace the brake fluid and clutch fluid. I would change the antifreeze as well.
To be honest, I would be tempted to just take the car to an expert to get it running, the Mk.II straight 6 engine although simple will require tuning if it has been sat for so long. Ask the JEC guys who is your local Mk.II specialist.
If you are around Reading/Basingstoke, Graham Bull is exceptionally good with E-Types/Mk.II, PM me if you need any info.
Get advice from the JEC!
Graham
Remember to fill the car up with BP Ultimate or Shell V-Power and then add lead replacement to stop any valve seat wear.
Any oils you use, make sure they are classic oils, I think the grade for the E-Type is 20w50 MINERAL oil, not semi synthetic or synthetic! Millers Oils are the norm.
Join the Jaguar Enthusiasts Club and go on their boards and ask the experts on there. J.C.s advice is good, but it is not exhaustive, on a car worth so much money nowadays, I would want to make sure that I am not going to knacker the engine.
Remember to replace the gearbox and diff oils when you replace the engine oil. You will also need to replace the brake fluid and clutch fluid. I would change the antifreeze as well.
To be honest, I would be tempted to just take the car to an expert to get it running, the Mk.II straight 6 engine although simple will require tuning if it has been sat for so long. Ask the JEC guys who is your local Mk.II specialist.
If you are around Reading/Basingstoke, Graham Bull is exceptionally good with E-Types/Mk.II, PM me if you need any info.
Get advice from the JEC!
Graham
Yup.. the Mk2 aka Inspector Morse car. It was restored in 1988 to a replica of the one used in the series. Only thing it doesn't have have is the vinyl roof and it is a 3.8l....originally at least.
After much ado, I decided to get in touch with the specialist who originally restored the engine and gearbox in 1988. They came with a flatbed and had it looked in their shop.
Decided will give it a strip down to restore it back to it's original colour, interior and to rebuild the original 3.8l engine which was sitting on the barn floor. Engine currently in it is a 4.2l from the E-Type that was sitting next to it, which also got picked up today... hope I don't regret it.
There are 3 other cars in that barn, thinking of taking them too but the wife only gave permission for 2
Am in touch with my local area JEC... the restoration work is being done by a specialist in Derby. May only end up keeping the Mk2 as the E-Type isn't a roadster but a 1968 hardtop, not sure why it is made in the year that it is supposed to be a Series 1, but it has exposed headlights.
Haha, I am very familiar with the 4.2! Dad has a '67 4.2ltr E-Type Roadster, why I know quite a bit about the XK engine, well enough to know to leave it to the professionals on something like this. Good decision!
Yeh 248 RPA the famous Mk.II was sold recently, fetched over £100k!
http://www.pistonheads.com/ultima/default.asp?storyId=12601
So what has happened to the E-Type then, are you keeping that? They are worth a FORTUNE now, we got ours for £30k about 5 years ago, they are now worth over £50k and only going to increase in value, particularly as it is the E-Types 50th Anniversary this year. Get it running and get to Silverstone Classic at the end of July, its a Jaguar E-Type/Jaguar weekend and there will be hundreds of E-Types and classic Jags there. Early bird ticket sales ended yesterday, but if you got in touch with the JEC they will probably be able to sort you out, if you can get the car back by July!
Yeh, the E-Type you have is a Series 1 and a 1/2, same as what we have, except we have the roadster. The hardtop is still sought after as it is an early model with the superior 4.2ltr and the chassis was more sports car like on the straight 6 engined cars, rather than the GT Series 3 with the heavy V12.
Have the cylinder heads been painted gold? On the 4.2 the cylinder head should be gold to show that it has been converted to run on unleaded, but to be honest, we still use lead additive to keep it running sweetly. On the 3.8ltr they are painted silver and you will either need to get the head converted to run on unleaded or definitely use lead replacement! You can imagine which option is cheaper...!
These cars are and will be worth a lot of money, to be honest, Dad has made more money on the E-Type than he has by having the same amount in the bank, so they are a good investment and they are great fun to boot! They always get looks, both the Mk.II and E alike.
Anyway you can see the gold head here, your 4.2 should have it...
And some other shameless pics because I know you are interested haha!
Best of luck with the restoration, keep me updated if you please!
Graham
Yeh 248 RPA the famous Mk.II was sold recently, fetched over £100k!
http://www.pistonheads.com/ultima/default.asp?storyId=12601
So what has happened to the E-Type then, are you keeping that? They are worth a FORTUNE now, we got ours for £30k about 5 years ago, they are now worth over £50k and only going to increase in value, particularly as it is the E-Types 50th Anniversary this year. Get it running and get to Silverstone Classic at the end of July, its a Jaguar E-Type/Jaguar weekend and there will be hundreds of E-Types and classic Jags there. Early bird ticket sales ended yesterday, but if you got in touch with the JEC they will probably be able to sort you out, if you can get the car back by July!
Yeh, the E-Type you have is a Series 1 and a 1/2, same as what we have, except we have the roadster. The hardtop is still sought after as it is an early model with the superior 4.2ltr and the chassis was more sports car like on the straight 6 engined cars, rather than the GT Series 3 with the heavy V12.
Have the cylinder heads been painted gold? On the 4.2 the cylinder head should be gold to show that it has been converted to run on unleaded, but to be honest, we still use lead additive to keep it running sweetly. On the 3.8ltr they are painted silver and you will either need to get the head converted to run on unleaded or definitely use lead replacement! You can imagine which option is cheaper...!
These cars are and will be worth a lot of money, to be honest, Dad has made more money on the E-Type than he has by having the same amount in the bank, so they are a good investment and they are great fun to boot! They always get looks, both the Mk.II and E alike.
Anyway you can see the gold head here, your 4.2 should have it...
And some other shameless pics because I know you are interested haha!
Best of luck with the restoration, keep me updated if you please!
Graham
Original post by gbduo
Haha, I am very familiar with the 4.2! Dad has a '67 4.2ltr E-Type Roadster, why I know quite a bit about the XK engine, well enough to know to leave it to the professionals on something like this. Good decision!
Yes, some thing like this is best left to the professionals. Plus if I started to do it, the car may sit for another 20 years before it's driven
Original post by gbduo
Yeh 248 RPA the famous Mk.II was sold recently, fetched over £100k!
Yeh 248 RPA the famous Mk.II was sold recently, fetched over £100k!
That is somewhat of an anomaly... the price came more due to the history rather than the car itself, any average Mk2 2.4 can be had for £25k or less. Would be in fairly mint condition at £25k
Original post by gbduo
Get it running and get to Silverstone Classic at the end of July, its a Jaguar E-Type/Jaguar weekend and there will be hundreds of E-Types and classic Jags there. Early bird ticket sales ended yesterday, but if you got in touch with the JEC they will probably be able to sort you out, if you can get the car back by July!
Get it running and get to Silverstone Classic at the end of July, its a Jaguar E-Type/Jaguar weekend and there will be hundreds of E-Types and classic Jags there. Early bird ticket sales ended yesterday, but if you got in touch with the JEC they will probably be able to sort you out, if you can get the car back by July!
We will be there. I bought a Series 3 Roadster in Jan.... someone's unfinished project. It was drivable when I bought it... just needed a paint job, a new interior and hood. Now waiting for it to be reassembled after a disassembly for a new primer and paint job. Need to get the interior and hood sorted out.
Original post by gbduo
So what has happened to the E-Type then, are you keeping that?
So what has happened to the E-Type then, are you keeping that?
My wife wants the Series 3 to go if we keep it. Doubt she will change her mind on this one.
My aunt wants me to take all the cars in the barn or nothing at all. Since I want that Mk2, it will mean I have to take the 4 others as well.
Only thing is now I've got to think of what to do with the other 3 junks in there. Can't say much I suppose since she is giving them away for free.
Original post by gbduo
Yeh, the E-Type you have is a Series 1 and a 1/2, same as what we have, except we have the roadster. The hardtop is still sought after as it is an early model with the superior 4.2ltr and the chassis was more sports car like on the straight 6 engined cars, rather than the GT Series 3 with the heavy V12.
Yeh, the E-Type you have is a Series 1 and a 1/2, same as what we have, except we have the roadster. The hardtop is still sought after as it is an early model with the superior 4.2ltr and the chassis was more sports car like on the straight 6 engined cars, rather than the GT Series 3 with the heavy V12.
The noise the V12 makes is really nice though. But it does come with a nose-heavy feel.
Yes, the restorer from Derby did say that this car would most likely be far more sought after than the V12 versions.
The Series 3 I have is quite an interesting one though, only done 18000 miles since 1973 and first owner kept it till 2005.
Original post by gbduo
These cars are and will be worth a lot of money, to be honest, Dad has made more money on the E-Type than he has by having the same amount in the bank, so they are a good investment and they are great fun to boot! They always get looks, both the Mk.II and E alike.
Anyway you can see the gold head here, your 4.2 should have it...
And some other shameless pics because I know you are interested haha!
These cars are and will be worth a lot of money, to be honest, Dad has made more money on the E-Type than he has by having the same amount in the bank, so they are a good investment and they are great fun to boot! They always get looks, both the Mk.II and E alike.
Anyway you can see the gold head here, your 4.2 should have it...
And some other shameless pics because I know you are interested haha!
Leaving money in a bank only makes a bank rich
Nice pics
The 4.2 engine in the Mk2 doesn't have the gold painting on it so I'm assuming it either doesn't have the conversion... the specialist did mention they can make it run on unleaded with some minor modification. The red exterior and black is still by far the nicest combination for an E-Type.... unfortunately our FHC was originally painted in British Racing Green and tan interior.
Did your father buy it fully restored or had it restored after buying it?
Oh and love the spoked wheels.... neither of the units I have came with that type of wheels.
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