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Did I cross thread sump bolt when doing oil changer ? plug was tight to put back in.

I Did an oil and oil filter change 2000 miles ago, this was about the 4th or 5th one I have done on this car. I usually do this myself every 5000 miles or there about.
On the last oil change I tried to undo the sump drain plug bolt and it was very tight, I realised I had the ratchet on tighten , I was tightening it further instead of loosening it.
Anyway, got the bolt off, put in the new oil and new filter and went to tighten up the drain plug.
As soon as I was tightening it the ratchet went very tight despite the plug being almost fully out.
I had to really put a lot of strength into turning the ratchet to get the plug in and finally I got it in properly and tight.


I am wondering now and thinking ahead for the next oil and filter change in the next month or 2 if there will be any problems, if either the oil sump plug or the threads in the sump could be damaged. I think if the sump thread was damaged it would not have tightened at the end into the sump would it ? ?
The sump plug was replaced with a new one last year
any advice appreciated. thanks
(edited 4 years ago)
Reply 1
Original post by Cleverboy1991
I Did an oil and oil filter change 2000 miles ago, this was about the 4th or 5th one I have done on this car. I usually do this myself every 5000 miles or there about.
On the last oil change I tried to undo the sump drain plug bolt and it was very tight, I realised I had the ratchet on tighten , I was tightening it further instead of loosening it.
Anyway, got the bolt off, put in the new oil and new filter and went to tighten up the drain plug.
As soon as I was tightening it the ratchet went very tight despite the plug being almost fully out.
I had to really put a lot of strength into turning the ratchet to get the plug in and finally I got it in properly and tight.


I am wondering now and thinking ahead for the next oil and filter change in the next month or 2 if there will be any problems, if either the oil sump plug or the threads in the sump could be damaged. I think if the sump thread was damaged it would not have tightened at the end into the sump would it ? ?
The sump plug was replaced with a new one last year
any advice appreciated. thanks


Oh for god's sake...

Is it an aluminium sump? They're ridiculously easy to strip and you'll probably end up with a leak.

You may need a new sump. Good luck.
Original post by IWMTom
Oh for god's sake...

Is it an aluminium sump? They're ridiculously easy to strip and you'll probably end up with a leak.

You may need a new sump. Good luck.


why did you respond negatively ? if it is inconveniencing you , you did not have to reply.
I appreciate that you did reply but don't come across as it being as problem me asking questions because you don't have to click to come onto the thread and respond.
Not sure if it is aluminum or not. there appears to be no leak from this area or anywhere else.
If the sump threads are stripped can't it be fixed with helicoil or something with the sump still on the car ? cheers
(edited 4 years ago)
Reply 3
Original post by Cleverboy1991
why did you respond negatively ? if it is inconveniencing you , you did not have to reply.
I appreciate that you did reply but don't come across as it being as problem me asking questions because you don't have to click to come onto the thread and respond.
Not sure if it is aluminum or not. there appears to be no leak from this area or anywhere else.
If the sump threads are stripped can't it be fixed with helicoil or something with the sump still on the car ? cheers


Don't bother - with a car as old as yours, you will find a used sump for pennies. None of these repairs are any good as I once found out with my old Corsa.

Find out what material it is made of.
Original post by IWMTom
Don't bother - with a car as old as yours, you will find a used sump for pennies. None of these repairs are any good as I once found out with my old Corsa.

Find out what material it is made of.

Labour to replace a sump would be quite high , I assume fitting a helicoil to it would be cheap like under £30
Reply 5
Original post by Cleverboy1991
Labour to replace a sump would be quite high , I assume fitting a helicoil to it would be cheap like under £30


Just do it yourself? You've done harder things yourself..
Original post by IWMTom
Just do it yourself? You've done harder things yourself..

I have done wheel bearings brake disc brake pads glow plugs radiators drop links exhaust tie rod and a lot of other things but I thought doing a sump would be much harder task thanks for the encouragement what do you think
Reply 7
Original post by Cleverboy1991
I have done wheel bearings brake disc brake pads glow plugs radiators drop links exhaust tie rod and a lot of other things but I thought doing a sump would be much harder task thanks for the encouragement what do you think


Get yourself a Haynes manual and give it a shot, but don't bother if you don't have any leaks.

Just keep an eye for now.
Reply 8
Original post by Cleverboy1991
I have done wheel bearings brake disc brake pads glow plugs radiators drop links exhaust tie rod and a lot of other things but I thought doing a sump would be much harder task thanks for the encouragement what do you think


You drain the old oil, unbolt the 10-20 bolts around the perimeter, drop the pan, (clean the pick up while you're in there) slap the new pan on with a new gasket, refill oil. Super easy job.

The real question is - why did you keep on hulking on the drain plug when it was obvious that it wasn't going in right? It should go in all the way using just your fingers.
Original post by IWMTom
Get yourself a Haynes manual and give it a shot, but don't bother if you don't have any leaks.

Just keep an eye for now.

thanks, I already have a haynes manual I think it is rated 4/5 for difficulty on the book.
Original post by Nuffles
You drain the old oil, unbolt the 10-20 bolts around the perimeter, drop the pan, (clean the pick up while you're in there) slap the new pan on with a new gasket, refill oil. Super easy job.

The real question is - why did you keep on hulking on the drain plug when it was obvious that it wasn't going in right? It should go in all the way using just your fingers.


From what I heard it is a lot more difficult than that.
Yes the drain plug should just screw back in like it has done all the other times, yet this time it didn't and I was about 5 miles away from home in a giant car park mostly empty so thought I would change it there quickly, so when the bolt wasn't going in I would have been stranded so I had to tighten it all the way back in which was very difficult due to really tight turns on the ratchet.

If it comes to it can't someone fit a heli coil ? took about 10 minutes doing that for one of the glow plug holes.
Reply 11
Original post by Cleverboy1991
From what I heard it is a lot more difficult than that.
Yes the drain plug should just screw back in like it has done all the other times, yet this time it didn't and I was about 5 miles away from home in a giant car park mostly empty so thought I would change it there quickly, so when the bolt wasn't going in I would have been stranded so I had to tighten it all the way back in which was very difficult due to really tight turns on the ratchet.

If it comes to it can't someone fit a heli coil ? took about 10 minutes doing that for one of the glow plug holes.


Yes, but expect a leak that won't go away.

Why did you change your oil in a car park away from home?
Original post by IWMTom
Yes, but expect a leak that won't go away.

Why did you change your oil in a car park away from home?


There is no leak at all.
TBH I don't like working on it at home because I get paranoid sometimes and feel the neighbors and watching me and think I have nothing better to do.

shouldget a heli coil fitted to it ( took 10 mins to do glow plug hole ) if it is rounded off threads ?
Reply 13
Original post by Cleverboy1991
There is no leak at all.
TBH I don't like working on it at home because I get paranoid sometimes and feel the neighbors and watching me and think I have nothing better to do.

shouldget a heli coil fitted to it ( took 10 mins to do glow plug hole ) if it is rounded off threads ?


No.. you should replace the sump.

You can get a kit from Laser that will cut new threads at M15 instead of M14 and it comes with a few new sump plugs, but I still had a leak.

If you don't have a leak, stop worrying.
Original post by IWMTom
No.. you should replace the sump.

You can get a kit from Laser that will cut new threads at M15 instead of M14 and it comes with a few new sump plugs, but I still had a leak.

If you don't have a leak, stop worrying.


I wouldn't do it myself I would take it to a professional if it needed a heli coil fitted to the car .
to get a sump replaced with labour could cost £300 + , helicoil probably around £30

It is not leaking now but am worried on the next oil change if I have to force the drain plug in again it could leak the next time

What measures should I take as precaution when I do the next oil change in about 2 months, I will do it at home next time in case I can't get the plug back in. I will also buy a new sump plug.
thanks
(edited 4 years ago)
Reply 15
Original post by Cleverboy1991
I wouldn't do it myself I would take it to a professional if it needed a heli coil fitted to the car .
to get a sump replaced with labour could cost £300 + , helicoil probably around £30

It is not leaking now but am worried on the next oil change if I have to force the drain plug in again it could leak the next time

What measures should I take as precaution when I do the next oil change in about 2 months, I will do it at home next time in case I can't get the plug back in. I will also buy a new sump plug.
thanks


The simple fact is you don't know if there's anything wrong until you take it off. Worry about it later - for all we know, it's perfectly fine
Original post by IWMTom
The simple fact is you don't know if there's anything wrong until you take it off. Worry about it later - for all we know, it's perfectly fine


Thanks, I just don't know why it didn't go all the way in with my fingers turning it like it usually does it was very tight as I was turning the ratchet the second it went in before the 1st thread.
I made sure I was holding the plug level and straight as it was going in.

When I looked at the threads at the very end on the sump I think the last 1 thread looked a little squashed in or something
Reply 17
Original post by Cleverboy1991
Thanks, I just don't know why it didn't go all the way in with my fingers turning it like it usually does it was very tight as I was turning the ratchet the second it went in before the 1st thread.
I made sure I was holding the plug level and straight as it was going in.

When I looked at the threads at the very end on the sump I think the last 1 thread looked a little squashed in or something


If you were really concerned and wanted it sorted now, you could drain the oil into a clean container and try putting the plug back in.

You could then fill it back up with the oil you just drained.
Original post by IWMTom
If you were really concerned and wanted it sorted now, you could drain the oil into a clean container and try putting the plug back in.

You could then fill it back up with the oil you just drained.

I did consider that.
What would happen if I can't get the plug back into the oil sump if I try this out side my home, will it have to be towed to a garage, can a mobile mechanic come and fit a heli coil, could I get a larger drain plug as I have read on the internet from other people's threads ? thanks
Reply 19
Original post by Cleverboy1991
I did consider that.
What would happen if I can't get the plug back into the oil sump if I try this out side my home, will it have to be towed to a garage, can a mobile mechanic come and fit a heli coil, could I get a larger drain plug as I have read on the internet from other people's threads ? thanks


Remember a few posts back I mentioned the kit from Laser being M15 instead of M14? That's larger.

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