Hey there! Sign in to join this conversationNew here? Join for free
x Turn on thread page Beta
    Offline

    19
    ReputationRep:
    Cool cheers, I'm staying carless (not driving at all!) for the next 5 months, but need to get something when I get back from Minorca
    Our 306 wasn't too bad, had a gearbox change which wasn't great, and a problem with idling/starting (MAP hose disconnected - d'oh!) but our 307's been a real problem Nothing like as nice a car either. Spoke to a pug mechanic, apparently when trying to sort rattles with them they were told (by Peugeot) to fill the chassis with expanding foam and pack the dash with tissue till the rattle stopped..
    • Thread Starter
    Offline

    15
    ReputationRep:
    Typical Pug!

    Although saying that, they fixed my car which no other twit could - so its all good.
    Offline

    19
    ReputationRep:
    Sure they could break it just as well though
    Offline

    1
    ReputationRep:
    Oooh, expanding foam! Here's a tip some people have been known to do. If you want to stiffen up your ride, but without adding a roll cage, get ahold of some expandin foam. I'll post a link soon.

    I know of some people who have done this. They fill gaps in the body work with the foam. Things like the rear quater panels/wings etc. Basically anywhere there is empty space. It really helps with body roll, handling and it makes the car almost completely rattle-free. That in fact is the most dramatic and noticable difference is the lack of rattles.

    That stuff is pretty tricky though, and you have to get a specific type and work very quickly once you've mixed it up as it acts rather fast. And you have to be careful how much you put in and how quickly. If you put too much too fast, it can expand and push out the body work. You also have to be careful what it falls on as it permanantly marks concrete. But if you practice and get it right, it does work wonders with your car.
    Offline

    1
    ReputationRep:
    the only thing that puts me off a pug is trim falling off and dodgy electrics (and i've got experience of 205s, 405s and 406s). An Mi16 205 is still tempting- with some work 200+bhp is easily got out of the engine, that plus a stripped 205 = seriously quick.

    307 is a bit of a dog. Shame really as the 306 is a good car.

    i've seen the expanding foam trick before (think it was a miata forum in the US I was looking at). Bit of a ***** to apply but works well. Few of my mates also use the stuff on ICE installs to fill in boot lids etc to prevent rattles. Dynomat works better but expanding foam is a hell of a lot cheaper.
    Offline

    1
    ReputationRep:
    The foam is better for body stiffening obviously. If it's rattles you want to sort out, then dynomat is the way to go.
    • Thread Starter
    Offline

    15
    ReputationRep:
    (Original post by walshie)
    The moment of truth - I am absolutely delighted. The mechanic drove my car round to the front of the forecourt and started revving it up in the showroom car park admist everyones happy smiles. I just had this dirty grin on my face. Sounded sweet.

    I put the key in the ignition and it started within a second, not 5 as previously had done. The slightest touch on the throttle and it was gagging to go. I decided to have a flirt with a Cooper S last night at about 02.30am down a nice stretch of A1. I completely left it. In fact, it would of been closer if I'd raced the JC Works. I now know everything is good and back in order

    So so happy, after 6 months (Mid-October). Now just need reimbursement as I'm a student and I have just paid out in excess of £5k in the last 6 months. My insurance is due in 2 weeks. :eek:

    Ok - what I just said here - scrap it.
    My car engine cut out last night at 3am down a dual carriageway.
    Sounded like battery at first, so left it a while, and the engine made a half attempt. Left it longer, but still to no avail. Called Ma to come and help. Jump leads etc - then half hour after that, car starts; ableit to sound of a bad of spanners. My engine, I swear is officially shot.

    My breaks, steering & engine had all failed. Towing me home wasn't easy.

    What's worse is that I was on a lay-by where all the local gays come for a gooden'. My gosh, I've dicovered an awful amount of gay people come to shag in the woods at 3am-4am in the morning. And the amount of cars wasn't letting up. To say I felt uncomfortable there is an understatement. I'm just hoping noone saw my car on the lay-by that I knew!

    Back to Pug it goes :rolleyes:
    If I had the same amount of good luck as bad, I'd be richer than Bill Gates.
    Offline

    11
    ReputationRep:
    Sorry about that Walshie, any ideas yet? If it was the charging circuit your light would have turned on to say so, if it was the battery you wouldn't usually notice it whilst driving (alternator does all that's needed) but you would at start up.

    Hopefully Peugeot will look at for free (hmm!) and find it's part of their workmanship (hmm!) and it will be fixed soon (hmm!) and not have any further problems (hmm!).

    Considering all the bits that have been replaced I wouldn't like to guess much. Sounds fairly bad though - not that you want to hear that - considering your engine lost power, is hard to restart and runs awfully when it does. Could be the cambelt slipped slightly...
    • Thread Starter
    Offline

    15
    ReputationRep:
    Cambelt looks tight.

    It sounds as though somethings let go, or somethings loose when it did start up. The mechanics word were: It could be something (i.e. new engine) or absolutely nothing.

    He then asked "you haven't been ragging it have you?" - quite the contrary last night actually. Ok - I was doing 70-80 when it cut out, but I certainly wasn't killing the engine. I was in 6th with about 4000 revs left!

    Put it this way - when my car was a state previosuly, it sounded terrible, but it never broke down even when ragging it. So I'm guessing it is something they have done.

    - No dash lights came on prior to giving up and temperature was good as I was regulalrly looking at my speed

    When the car managed to restart - no lights came on, on the dash. Everything was fine, even the autodiagnostics light.

    I've just had enough to be honest. I'm gutted. I was so happy that everything was fine again. The exhaust note was crisp, the car engine was perfect, no noises, no nothing. Now this out of the blue.
    Offline

    1
    ReputationRep:
    Mayber you should've left the Cooper S alone that night, until you're engine had broken in properly.

    When the engine is broken in properly (which I'm sure it will once those guys fix it soon!), then it's going to feel even faster!

    BUT GIVE IT SOME MILES FIRST!!!! I'd be on the safe side and wait about 2-3 months of normal driving before ragging again, and again, and again...
    • Thread Starter
    Offline

    15
    ReputationRep:
    To be honest - I did have a little spirited drive with the Cooper S, but far from anything I have done before against those pesky 325s or 172/182s. What I'm saying is, although I pushed it, it wasn't hardcore redlining it. I seemed to comfortably fly pass with ease.

    I might have to consider blaming myself for that, but I wouldn't expect the car to give in over something like that. Prior to giving my car to Pug, the car was awful, misfiring etc, but it never broke down even after spirited drives. So I can only assume its something to do with the repair job :confused:

    Just took it backl to Pug, and the first thing he said was: it could be the vaccum. Then said: could be the battery as that can really stuff up your engine! :rolleyes: 'Not like this' was my reply.
    Managed to start my engine and then said it sounds as though something is loose. Answer will come tomorrow morning. I'm praying.
    Offline

    1
    ReputationRep:
    Yeah, lets just find out what they say.
    • Thread Starter
    Offline

    15
    ReputationRep:
    Oooh - 4 weeks ince I posted. Blimey, is that how long I haven't driven my beloved for!

    Anyway, took a few photo's of the damage. All as attached.
    Attached Images
         
    • Thread Starter
    Offline

    15
    ReputationRep:
    Sump II.jpg shows the big end bearing with inner broken bearings due to possible oil starvation. You can see the oil everywhere, but this was not to say it had recently been neglected by a garage.

    Sump III.jpg - I have no idea what that is :confused:

    Sump.jpg is the main sump itself, which as you can see has been badly scorched all round really.

    Undertray.jpg shows undernaeth the car where they took the sump from. A lot of people thought you had to take the engine out. YOu can see the cambelt loose, as well as a chain.

    Engine Bay.jpg - what is that green liquid? I'm very intrigued. Normally brake fluid, or even anti-freeze, but neier are near!
    Offline

    1
    ReputationRep:
    Ouch So what's up with it now then?
    • Thread Starter
    Offline

    15
    ReputationRep:
    (Original post by Kingspharm)
    Ouch So what's up with it now then?
    Well - errrrr - one would suspect the bearing looking at the pictures :laugh:

    Need proper advice though. I swear i'm not negligent for the bearings failure. I mean 'oil starvation' - come on; that is not me. Its a blooming garage fault.

    Need to get this into court, and then I'll decide on what to do with this. Need at least half my dosh back. (approx £4k). And then I can set up a new engine jobbie, or new car.

    Might start dismantling the engine now, so I can understand everything and sell off all the existing bits such as the cylinder head, injectors etc.
    Offline

    0
    ReputationRep:
    :eek: wow

    The bearing does look like it has run dry/overheated, although that is not necessarily due to low oil level. The sump III pic looks like the drive sprocket for the oil pump. It will be driven by the small chain you can see hanging under the car. Have a really good look at it - if the chain is stretched or damaged then this could have caused low oil pressure. Also strip down the oil pump itself and check for wear - you can measure the backlash with a feeler gauge.

    Did the garage rebuild the bottom end at some point? If they have not touched the bearings/oil pump it will probably be more difficult to prove they are at fault. I remember you mentioning getting the head gasket replaced, so I suppose if you have an oil/water mix in the sump they might have dropped it to clean it and not put something back correctly. The oil pickup/strainer will probably have an o ring on it, and quite often people dont bother replacing it. This causes problems as the joint will leak air causing the pump to suck in air rather than thicker oil.

    Its virtually impossible to tell anything without stripping the engine down. I would suggest you get the engine out of the car and take lots of photos as you take it apart so you have plenty of evidence. Keep everything grouped together in little bags so you know what bearings came from where etc. If the crank isnt too badly damaged you may be able to get it reground and fit undersize bearings. That way you could possibly rebuild the engine with existing parts relatively cheaply. If the whole engine has been starved of oil though there may well be damage to cylinder bores/cams etc which make the engine scrap. If you get a replacement engine you may not get all the fuel injection gear etc with it, so I would suggest you dont sell anything just yet. Get your engine rebuilt/replaced first and then sell on any bits you have left over.
    • Thread Starter
    Offline

    15
    ReputationRep:
    The car has never had its bottom end played with or rebuilt.
    Cylinder head was a problem where the initial garage thought the piston was hitting due to the amount skimmed. Cylinder head replaced with a decent one.

    Problem is, as you can see in Sump II.jpg, the bearing has shattered. As a result of this, it is likely to have gone everywhere, including in the new cylinder head. This will cause me nightmares to get the particles out.

    I did have suggetsions that a cambelt slippage may have caused his, but I checked the cambelt, and there wasn't one mark on it, with no wear on the teeth etc, so this can't be factual.

    I'm terrified to start a beleaguered project :eek:
    Offline

    0
    ReputationRep:
    (Original post by walshie)
    Cylinder head was a problem where the initial garage thought the piston was hitting due to the amount skimmed. Cylinder head replaced with a decent one.
    Sounds like they may have heard the knocking noise coming from the failing bearing and mistook it for a cyl head problem?

    (Original post by walshie)
    Problem is, as you can see in Sump II.jpg, the bearing has shattered. As a result of this, it is likely to have gone everywhere, including in the new cylinder head. This will cause me nightmares to get the particles out.
    There may well be bits of junk floating about, but because the bearing is made of relatively soft material it shouldnt cause too much damage. Flushing the oilways with cleaning fluid should sort most of it out, and the oil filter will catch any very small particles left behind.

    Hope you can get this all sorted one way or another
    • Thread Starter
    Offline

    15
    ReputationRep:
    (Original post by stevoboy)
    Sounds like they may have heard the knocking noise coming from the failing bearing and mistook it for a cyl head problem?
    Hope you can get this all sorted one way or another
    They did mistake it for a cylinder head (the knocking noise). It was in fact the valves after they put the cambelt on wrong causing the mis-timing of my engine and bending the valves. They subsquently replaced the head, and the knocking noise still remained. Then replaced the tappets, and again, knocking noise remained. Enough was enough, so I left to a proper garage.

    Head was fine, so they may have replaced that for nothing. They may of also replaced the fans for nothing, and definitely the tappets.

    I also hope I can get it sorted out! So - thanks
 
 
 
Poll
Are you going to a festival?

The Student Room, Get Revising and Marked by Teachers are trading names of The Student Room Group Ltd.

Register Number: 04666380 (England and Wales), VAT No. 806 8067 22 Registered Office: International House, Queens Road, Brighton, BN1 3XE

Write a reply...
Reply
Hide
Reputation gems: You get these gems as you gain rep from other members for making good contributions and giving helpful advice.