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    (Original post by Minardi)
    Give these chaps a call, they'll be able to help mate.

    http://www.barcleywilliams.co.uk/
    Cheers mate, they look just the job
    (Original post by JC.)
    An extra 250psi isn't exactly small beans. If you were to blast oil @ 250psi at your skin it'd tear a hole in it, eh? I think you aught to look at the pressure relief valve - make sure it's not gauling up and change the spring.

    The fast the leak went at all suggests you're in the right area to me.
    Plan is to try and replace the PRV and transmission oil filter (if I can get hold of a new PRV). I know it's quite a lot of pressure but it's within about 10% of spec and less than the max expected pressure (there's another PRV that opens at 2500psi if something heavy drops on the hydraulics). I'll give it a go and see if things change - next challenge will be draining 5 gallons of oil and trying to keep it clean while the back end's open.

    Bit (further!) off topic but do either of you have any particular places you go for good tools at decent prices? My collection's not bad but always keen for a bargain, and I'm looking to get a 3/4" socket set when I find one at the right price.
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    (Original post by CurlyBen)

    Bit (further!) off topic but do either of you have any particular places you go for good tools at decent prices? My collection's not bad but always keen for a bargain, and I'm looking to get a 3/4" socket set when I find one at the right price.
    I know it's a bit vulture like, but i've picked up some decent tools at farm auctions.
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    Dont piss about with hydraulics Ben, it can really bite. On ship we have some properly savage pressures in places, 1500 bar, I don't know what that is in psi, 30000? Anyway, one if the unions failed ans the resulting leak sliced a hole in 8mm thick steel!!

    Would have been worse if someone was in the way! Just be careful round the unions and valves, doesn't take that big of an error to really ruin your day!
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    (Original post by CurlyBen)
    Cheers mate, they look just the job
    All our Brown spares come from there, they really know their stuff.
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    Well I couldn't get the carbs to balance on the E-Type today so it is going to the rolling road tomorrow hopefully with a man who can balance the carbs and hopefully it should solve the rather annoying misfire at 3k rpm that stops it revving dead.

    I thought it was ignition trouble but we have now pretty much replaced everything on the ignition side so and the timing is fine so it must be the carbs...must be. Grrrr
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    (Original post by JC.)
    I wonder if there would be any merrit in running a slightly colder grade of plug on your inner pair to give a more complete burn?
    The pistons on that engine are a mirror of the head, the burn is already fairly good, its a fair suggestion. However the issue is the level of fuel. Its 2 ratio out. Ie 12:1 and 14:1. or in my case. 11.5 and 13. Under power.

    The solution to all this is, 6 injectors two sets of injector tables, two sets of injector timings.

    Currently I have a cam that has altered timing on the outers in order so sort the problem. To some extent it does. 11.5 and 13. its normally over 3 out. But this is a slight fix not a full on solotion.
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    So this has just turned into a discussion thread?

    I like to think I've learnt a fair bit about cars from my dad. He's owned over 100 cars (probably like 60-70+ different models) and always talks to me about them/shows me things. Though he's never delved into classic cars - I'll persuade him soon enough
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    A discussion thread that is interesting and with proper petrolheads in it that know what they are talking about...

    That stoichiometric ratio Sam Walters is far too low imo, you are running incredibly lean, do you get overheating problems at all? Pinking?
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    Turns out the problem with the E could have been a dodgy Lucas rotor arm...

    The guy changed the rotor arm and fingers crossed it is running like a dream now. Apparently and unsurprisingly Lucas made a batch of really sh111ty rotor arms and they keep on failing. So, the guy replaced it and it is running sweet now...he is going to take it for a drive on Friday though, see if it has fixed it or not.

    To say I am mildly annoyed that not only a 3 month old (cheap/obvious) part failed but I failed to spot it is a understatement. Grrr.
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    (Original post by gbduo)
    Lucas really sh111ty
    Corrected that one for you. Also the fuel to air ratio mixture on my cars is fairly rich under load. 14:1 is stoichiometric. There is no pinking. It’s at the point where an advance in ignition does not increase power.

    According to the DET cans and my less than ideal ears I’ve got enough 4 degree to play with.

    This will change when I work another casting for the head, this time I’m going quite radical. tubes at 15 degree into the head to increase inlet flow. Also allows more flexibility with the port and throat. I’ll be ditching the weber at that point.
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    Oh right! I thought you meant your stoich was 11:1 under load at the high end, I was worrying a bit!

    Oooo sounds cool! Are you going to go down the F/I route?
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    (Original post by gbduo)
    Oh right! I thought you meant your stoich was 11:1 under load at the high end, I was worrying a bit!

    Oooo sounds cool! Are you going to go down the F/I route?
    the proof of concept works well, found someone else doing the same thing.

    Choice of turbo is a bit awkward. I want to use a vnt one but controlling them at the moment its less then ideal. But thats a fair while down the pipeline. At the end of my degree. Aswell as building a 400kg mini with my own design of suspension (Works in solid works) and all sorts of other gubbins.

    A Gt2056 seems to be the winner so far and should allow me to run upto 270hp at 8000rpm with an afr of about 12.5:1 on full boost.

    I need to keep the trim size down so i can run higher pressure ratios. Elsewise i just wont be able to run the pressure i need to make the power.

    Hence the little turbo.
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    270bhp would be enough! Would that be in the Mini?

    To get to 400Kg surely you will be using a bike engine?
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    (Original post by gbduo)
    270bhp would be enough! Would that be in the Mini?

    To get to 400Kg surely you will be using a bike engine?
    Either 400kg without cage or 430kg with. or 370/400 if i turn to the darkside and put in a 1.8vvc k-series.

    Its not an unrealistic project to build a sub 300kg road legal classic mini with an r1 engine.

    270hp may not be enough. To be competitive in that class I need a car that will do 0-100mph in less than 7 seconds.
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    Oh yeh I know, I just did a full restoration on a classic mini cooper s with 1380 and about 13k sunk in it lol! The much cheaper option was to go down the space frame chassis route and bike engine it but I wanted something useable. As it turns out a 1380 with the supercharger from the Bini is pretty quick and we have not got it mapped properly yet!

    I love minis!
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    (Original post by gbduo)
    Oh yeh I know, I just did a full restoration on a classic mini cooper s with 1380 and about 13k sunk in it lol! The much cheaper option was to go down the space frame chassis route and bike engine it but I wanted something useable. As it turns out a 1380 with the supercharger from the Bini is pretty quick and we have not got it mapped properly yet!

    I love minis!
    14.6 seconds is your target for the 1/4. This is what my 118hp daily set.

    What’s the spec of the heart?
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    I get bored doing straight lines. This is built for fast road/track.

    1380cc, stage IV, forged pistons/rods/crank, ARP bolts, race rockers, titanium valves and retainers, double valve springs, ported/polished, ITBs, supercharger from a 2003 Bini w/aftercooler in the wing, Stage 3 clutch, OMEX ECU, custom maniflow 'zorst with 4-2-1 manifold. Its running on 10" split rims from Force Racing I think with Yoko AD08s. 4 pot brakes and grooved and vented discs up front, standard drums at the back.

    There is probably loads more but I have forgotten most of the engine, me and my mate built it like a year ago and can't remember all of it, so many boxes! Should have made a note really. Ah well!

    We only just got it running and then we both had to go to work (at sea) so she has sat in the garage doing nothing for the past 4 months, so got to get it up the rolling road and get it tuned. She is running properly rich at the moment.

    It will have at least 170bhp but as its not tuned yet and its a brand new engine we don't know what it can achieve.
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    (Original post by JC.)
    An awful lot of people spout an awful lot of crap about cars in general.

    Personally, I've had an a fair selection of cars (over 50 and driven an awful lot more) so I'd like to think I've got a reasonably well enough informed opinion?
    The cars I've owned have been spread across various sectors. I've had hatchbacks, convertibles, 4x4s, big & small saloons, GT cars. Automatics and Manuals classics and moderns.
    I've also, admittedly, formed my own opinions on what I like and what suits me. I'm mostly interested in pre 1980 vehicles with what many would regard as silly big engines.

    What really gets my goat is these folk that have had maybe 1 car or not even passed a driving test yet that seem to think they are Gods gift to the motoring community. Those that seem to think that because they've watched a few episodes of topgear they know what makes for a good car and what makes for a bad car.
    These are the same people that will re-gurgitate the same crap over and over again and come out with stupid comments such as "all 90's K series powered cars suffer head gasket failure". Of course you never hear these know it alls mention in the same breath that BMW's of the same period have a predisposition for dropping cylinder liners, do you? Why is that? They havent read it in the paper or watched it on Top Gear probably!

    I just find it incredulous that individuals who have never seen or driven certain cars think they can make a judgement with apparent absolute conviction on what they are like because of something they have seen on TV.

    I bought a car recently that was comparable to it's contemporys in it's day yet, for some reason, is often the butt of a lot of bad jokes today. I bought it, despite the "reputation", because I've never had one before and I want to make my own judgement about the thing and hopefully have a bit of fun with it in the process before I get bored and want to change it for something else.
    Yet, I know if I were to bother to start a thread on here about it as a lot of folk do when they buy a new car it'd attract endless amounts of stupid uninformed comments.

    So what's the deal then? Anyone else feel like putting their head in their hands when you read the inane drivel touted by these "experts" who actually have very little experience of cars?

    [/rant]
    THere are people like this in all walks of life!!!

    THough the worst ones are the ones that give you excellent, convincing diagnosis on what ails your vehicle and 'brilliant' advice and remedies on how to fix your vehicle, even offering to have a look and a tinker for you - but as soon as their vehicle is broken they're off down the mechnics in a panic without even opening up the bonnet!!!
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    (Original post by gbduo)
    Turns out the problem with the E could have been a dodgy Lucas rotor arm...

    The guy changed the rotor arm and fingers crossed it is running like a dream now. Apparently and unsurprisingly Lucas made a batch of really sh111ty rotor arms and they keep on failing. So, the guy replaced it and it is running sweet now...he is going to take it for a drive on Friday though, see if it has fixed it or not.

    To say I am mildly annoyed that not only a 3 month old (cheap/obvious) part failed but I failed to spot it is a understatement. Grrr.
    Should have updated it to an electronic ignition
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    (Original post by Sam Walters)
    Either 400kg without cage or 430kg with. or 370/400 if i turn to the darkside and put in a 1.8vvc k-series.

    Its not an unrealistic project to build a sub 300kg road legal classic mini with an r1 engine.

    270hp may not be enough. To be competitive in that class I need a car that will do 0-100mph in less than 7 seconds.
    What gearbox will you be using with that R1 engine?
 
 
 
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