Hey there! Sign in to join this conversationNew here? Join for free

Suit cut? Advice from girls and guys needed. Watch

    Offline

    0
    ReputationRep:
    (Original post by OmarDurrani)
    Seriously?
    Yes, my most expensive suit has a single vent and I prefer it
    • Thread Starter
    Offline

    0
    ReputationRep:
    (Original post by rmanoj)
    Wrong thread?





    No. The single vent was originally a practical feature of riding coats, but for some reason Americans love to have them on all their suit coats and sports jackets. Unless you're going to ride a horse in your suit, double vents will be more practical and comfortable, and having no vent at all will be more formal and elegant.
    My computer has lost it's mind :L sorry mate
    • Thread Starter
    Offline

    0
    ReputationRep:
    (Original post by rmanoj)
    Wrong thread?





    No. The single vent was originally a practical feature of riding coats, but for some reason Americans love to have them on all their suit coats and sports jackets. Unless you're going to ride a horse in your suit, double vents will be more practical and comfortable, and having no vent at all will be more formal and elegant.
    Right, so I just thought I'd quote you so you see this. Anyway, I went to look at some fabric today. I've decided on a white jacket with a black waistcoat/trousers. One of the fabrics I saw is a 180, the other is a 120. Italian, one is an Armani fabric I think...The black is a cashmere. Does this sound alright?
    Offline

    15
    ReputationRep:
    :coma:.

    The only way that you could better that combination would be to go for a bit of tweed :sexface:.
    Offline

    0
    ReputationRep:
    (Original post by OmarDurrani)
    Right, so I just thought I'd quote you so you see this. Anyway, I went to look at some fabric today. I've decided on a white jacket with a black waistcoat/trousers. One of the fabrics I saw is a 180, the other is a 120. Italian, one is an Armani fabric I think...The black is a cashmere. Does this sound alright?
    Stay away from the Super 180s whatever you do. Cashmere would be a bit of an odd choice for formalwear as far as I'm aware - it should really be sheep's wool (same applies for the white jacket).
    • Thread Starter
    Offline

    0
    ReputationRep:
    (Original post by Ultimate_Geek)
    :coma:.

    The only way that you could better that combination would be to go for a bit of tweed :sexface:.
    Haha, I'm trying to work out the material. Also I can't work out how to double quote, so rmanoj, what's wrong with Super 180s? Too heavy? Also I'm not sure it's entirely formal, knowing the lads at my school you'll get something like:

    http://media.photobucket.com/image/b...uff/collar.jpg

    So I'm not too worried about looking too casual
    Offline

    0
    ReputationRep:
    (Original post by OmarDurrani)
    Haha, I'm trying to work out the material. Also I can't work out how to double quote, so rmanoj, what's wrong with Super 180s? Too heavy? Also I'm not sure it's entirely formal, knowing the lads at my school you'll get something like:

    http://media.photobucket.com/image/b...uff/collar.jpg

    So I'm not too worried about looking too casual
    A high "Super" number means that the cloth has a finer weave. Coarser weaves will breathe better, which is important in hot weather. They also tend to be less durable and, (especially when the fabric is lightweight as well, which it usually is) wrinkle more and drape less well. The only real advantage is that the cloth will feel very fine and luxurious. Have a read of these two pages for more information:

    http://www.mycustomclothing.com/cust..._Wool_Mean.htm

    http://www.american.com/archive/2007...er-super-wool/

    A lower Super number will give you a decent, solid suit (well, some purists won't touch anything that has a Super number at all, whereas some think Super 100s is OK etc). And I see what you're saying about the formality, but if you're going to have a dinner jacket made, you might as well get one in a cloth that will make it appropriate for any other occasions that might come up as well. Cashmere is just a bit weird for a dinner jacket (unless it's a cashmere/ mohair blend).

    I'd recommend this fabric for the waistcoat and trousers: http://www.taylorandlodge.com/index....ain-weave.html? It's Super 150s, which is a bit high for my taste, but still much better than Super 180s (and it's a mohair blend, which is perfect for a DJ, and a lightweight summer cloth).

    Of course, if you want something even more traditional, that site also has Super 120s Barathea, but it's 11-12oz, which is probably too heavy.

    I'm having a hard time finding a decent example online for the jacket fabric. The best one I've seen is here: http://www.hollandandsherry.com/appa...&details=HS127 - scroll down and look at the "flax solid" version. I can't be sure if the colour is quite right, but you can always ask them to send you a swatch (sample) of the cloth.

    Edit: Of course, disregard that if you want to buy the cloth locally instead of having it imported. I'm sure you'll be able to find some lightweight wool or mohair fabric that doesn't have a very high Super number (150s is OK, I guess, but no higher).
    • Thread Starter
    Offline

    0
    ReputationRep:
    (Original post by rmanoj)
    A high "Super" number means that the cloth has a finer weave. Coarser weaves will breathe better, which is important in hot weather. They also tend to be less durable and, (especially when the fabric is lightweight as well, which it usually is) wrinkle more and drape less well. The only real advantage is that the cloth will feel very fine and luxurious. Have a read of these two pages for more information:

    http://www.mycustomclothing.com/cust..._Wool_Mean.htm

    http://www.american.com/archive/2007...er-super-wool/

    A lower Super number will give you a decent, solid suit (well, some purists won't touch anything that has a Super number at all, whereas some think Super 100s is OK etc). And I see what you're saying about the formality, but if you're going to have a dinner jacket made, you might as well get one in a cloth that will make it appropriate for any other occasions that might come up as well. Cashmere is just a bit weird for a dinner jacket (unless it's a cashmere/ mohair blend).

    I'd recommend this fabric for the waistcoat and trousers: http://www.taylorandlodge.com/index....ain-weave.html? It's Super 150s, which is a bit high for my taste, but still much better than Super 180s (and it's a mohair blend, which is perfect for a DJ, and a lightweight summer cloth).

    Of course, if you want something even more traditional, that site also has Super 120s Barathea, but it's 11-12oz, which is probably too heavy.

    I'm having a hard time finding a decent example online for the jacket fabric. The best one I've seen is here: http://www.hollandandsherry.com/appa...&details=HS127 - scroll down and look at the "flax solid" version. I can't be sure if the colour is quite right, but you can always ask them to send you a swatch (sample) of the cloth.

    Edit: Of course, disregard that if you want to buy the cloth locally instead of having it imported. I'm sure you'll be able to find some lightweight wool or mohair fabric that doesn't have a very high Super number (150s is OK, I guess, but no higher).
    The waistcoat/trousers would be cashmere, not the jacket, but I see where you're coming from. It is a blend as far as I'm aware, I checked and the fabric is a Super 120. It feels a bit light to me, which I'm a bit worried about. Thanks for all the information, really useful!
 
 
 
  • See more of what you like on The Student Room

    You can personalise what you see on TSR. Tell us a little about yourself to get started.

  • Poll
    Brexit voters: Do you stand by your vote?
  • See more of what you like on The Student Room

    You can personalise what you see on TSR. Tell us a little about yourself to get started.

  • The Student Room, Get Revising and Marked by Teachers are trading names of The Student Room Group Ltd.

    Register Number: 04666380 (England and Wales), VAT No. 806 8067 22 Registered Office: International House, Queens Road, Brighton, BN1 3XE

    Write a reply...
    Reply
    Hide
    Reputation gems: You get these gems as you gain rep from other members for making good contributions and giving helpful advice.