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Any idea what could be wrong with my car? Watch

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    You've already got 2 threads, no need to hijack this one.
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    Ugsy had a problem with starting and it was his spark plug

    Sent from my GT-S5363
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    If it was spark plug or electrical then it would be misfiring.

    Still sounds like a fuel-air (aka carb) issue to me.

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    (Original post by stuart_aitken)
    If it was spark plug or electrical then it would be misfiring.

    Still sounds like a fuel-air (aka carb) issue to me.

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    Surely fuel/air would become apparent under higher load, like when revved, rather than at idle? The fuel/air system is under barely any load at all at idle/starting so usually it's not the problem, unless the car won't start at all. The fact that it turns over a few times, before starting and running normally, suggests that it could well be an electrical fault, as these tend to be either 'on' or 'off'. IMO carb issues just tend to cause consistent bad running.
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    Ive got it booked into the garage (they cant fit it in until first thing monday). In the meantime, my dad spoke to the mechanic bloke where he works and he may be wrong but he said it could be 1 of 2 sensors. The crankshaft sensor or some other one i cant remember the name of.
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    (Original post by tanktoptony)
    is the car a petrol or diesel?

    sounds like the glow plugs if its a diesel
    Its petrol
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    (Original post by Nuffles)
    Surely fuel/air would become apparent under higher load, like when revved, rather than at idle? The fuel/air system is under barely any load at all at idle/starting so usually it's not the problem, unless the car won't start at all. The fact that it turns over a few times, before starting and running normally, suggests that it could well be an electrical fault, as these tend to be either 'on' or 'off'. IMO carb issues just tend to cause consistent bad running.
    You're probably right. I'm just biased because my first motorbike had epic carb issues, haha.

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    Took it to the garage this morning.
    They plugged it into their scanner thing that comes up with the fault codes etc. Turns out i some little switch (cant remember what its called) round the ignition area that recognises the chip inside the car key is on its way out. The garage have ordered the part (its a hyundai only part apparently) and the garage should get the part in tomorrow, so i will be able to take it back in to the garage to get it sorted.
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    The immobiliser?
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    (Original post by Camoxide)
    The immobiliser?
    That'd certainly make sense, eh?

    Although, you would have thought that the imobiliser would inhibit the starter from engaging?

    I think if it were me, I'd plug an inline spark tester in for the first crank of the day fully expecting it to play it's usual trick. You can rule out the imobiliser that way if you see the spark tester flashing, eh?

    Folk that have been refering to the vehicle battery are pulling red herrings. If it turns over at the usual rate then there's nothing wrong with the battery what-so-ever.

    As an experiment, OP, turn the key to position 2 and wait until - you should hear a click and then the fuel pump will prime the rail and then stop. Once you hear the pump stop THEN turn the key - it might not be getting quite enough fuel pressure by the time you first turn the key.

    The fact it starts on the 2nd attempt suggests you've got a decent enough spark to me. Although, as others have suggested a mini ignition service - plugs / leads / cap + rotor (if it has one) won't harm and will only cost maybe £50 for the parts and 20 minutes of your time.
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    starter motor or potentially the coilpack it sounds like
    EDIT: just noticed the post about the immobiliser above.. mine was in a similar position with what you are explaining.. my immobiliser was the problem. Have you got a spare key? and have you tried it? i had my engine in pieces and replaced several parts including the coilpack and starter motor and it turns out it was the key that was the problem
    James
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    (Original post by JamesHockey24)
    starter motor or potentially the coilpack it sounds like
    EDIT: just noticed the post about the immobiliser above.. mine was in a similar position with what you are explaining.. my immobiliser was the problem. Have you got a spare key? and have you tried it? i had my engine in pieces and replaced several parts including the coilpack and starter motor and it turns out it was the key that was the problem
    James
    No chance.
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    (Original post by Nuffles)
    Surely fuel/air would become apparent under higher load, like when revved, rather than at idle? The fuel/air system is under barely any load at all at idle/starting so usually it's not the problem, unless the car won't start at all. The fact that it turns over a few times, before starting and running normally, suggests that it could well be an electrical fault, as these tend to be either 'on' or 'off'. IMO carb issues just tend to cause consistent bad running.
    Sorry to re-quote but I've just had a thought - it could be the idle jets. These are the tiny nozzles (in the carbs) that allow fuel to pass through when the the throttle isn't open. Hence problems at startup. It's probably not the idle jets, but I thought I'd say it anyway, just to make myself feel better, hah.

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    (Original post by JC.)
    That'd certainly make sense, eh?

    Although, you would have thought that the imobiliser would inhibit the starter from engaging?

    I think if it were me, I'd plug an inline spark tester in for the first crank of the day fully expecting it to play it's usual trick. You can rule out the imobiliser that way if you see the spark tester flashing, eh?

    Folk that have been refering to the vehicle battery are pulling red herrings. If it turns over at the usual rate then there's nothing wrong with the battery what-so-ever.

    As an experiment, OP, turn the key to position 2 and wait until - you should hear a click and then the fuel pump will prime the rail and then stop. Once you hear the pump stop THEN turn the key - it might not be getting quite enough fuel pressure by the time you first turn the key.

    The fact it starts on the 2nd attempt suggests you've got a decent enough spark to me. Although, as others have suggested a mini ignition service - plugs / leads / cap + rotor (if it has one) won't harm and will only cost maybe £50 for the parts and 20 minutes of your time.
    Well every now and again the impobilser in my MG wont let me start the car (pressing the unlock button on the keyfob fixes it). and when that happens it wont crank, click, spark, ect... Just a beebing sound.

    When my Micra had a starting problem similar to what the OP is describing it was because the negative terminal on the battery wasn't done up properly and presumably wasn't getting enough amps to get the engine running.
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    (Original post by JC.)

    As an experiment, OP, turn the key to position 2 and wait until - you should hear a click and then the fuel pump will prime the rail and then stop. Once you hear the pump stop THEN turn the key - it might not be getting quite enough fuel pressure by the time you first turn the key..
    That's a good shout. Bugs hell out of me when people mash the key straight in and turn it all the way immediately! They'd be scuppered in a diesel!

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    (Original post by Camoxide)
    Well every now and again the impobilser in my MG wont let me start the car (pressing the unlock button on the keyfob fixes it). and when that happens it wont crank, click, spark, ect... Just a beebing sound.

    When my Micra had a starting problem similar to what the OP is describing it was because the negative terminal on the battery wasn't done up properly and presumably wasn't getting enough amps to get the engine running.
    Battery clamp issue would have created a "high resistance connection" - the lead would have become bloody hot and would have burnt you had you touched it.
    You'd still be getting a spark, but it'd be a piddly little yellow one rather than the nice fat blue one you need for the engine to catch first thing on a cold morning.

    I don't know why people don't invest in a set of inline spark testers - they are only about a tenner for a set of four and it's so much easier to diagnose HT issues - pull an HT lead off, insert tester and reconnect the HT lead.
    I bought two sets - lost the first one and found it again a couple of years later. Although, it does now mean I can fault find on a V8 nice and easily instead of doing one bank at a time!
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    (Original post by JC.)
    That'd certainly make sense, eh?

    Although, you would have thought that the imobiliser would inhibit the starter from engaging?

    I think if it were me, I'd plug an inline spark tester in for the first crank of the day fully expecting it to play it's usual trick. You can rule out the imobiliser that way if you see the spark tester flashing, eh?

    Folk that have been refering to the vehicle battery are pulling red herrings. If it turns over at the usual rate then there's nothing wrong with the battery what-so-ever.

    As an experiment, OP, turn the key to position 2 and wait until - you should hear a click and then the fuel pump will prime the rail and then stop. Once you hear the pump stop THEN turn the key - it might not be getting quite enough fuel pressure by the time you first turn the key.

    The fact it starts on the 2nd attempt suggests you've got a decent enough spark to me. Although, as others have suggested a mini ignition service - plugs / leads / cap + rotor (if it has one) won't harm and will only cost maybe £50 for the parts and 20 minutes of your time.
    Certainly not all immobilisers lock out the starter. Couldn't figure out why my car wouldn't start until I realised I had a duff key, it was spinning over fine but wouldn't fire.
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    Its probably just because its cold in the morning. Although, maybe the crankshaft sensor (senses when the engine is turning over to start) is playing up. You should get a diagnostic test when you go to the garage, and dont let them try and rip you off because these small things shouldnt cost too much.
    This is what a relative told me anyway, hes a mechanic. (Y)
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    (Original post by antonio108)
    Its probably just because its cold in the morning. Although, maybe the crankshaft sensor (senses when the engine is turning over to start) is playing up. You should get a diagnostic test when you go to the garage, and dont let them try and rip you off because these small things shouldnt cost too much.
    This is what a relative told me anyway, hes a mechanic. (Y)
    My dad had thought it could be the crankshaft sensor.
    But like i said earlier- ive been to the garage, got it checked, and its this switch thing behind the ignition that is on its way out. I cant remember what its called but its to do with recognising the key. They ordered the part for me (its a hyundai only part) and they are fitting the part for me when i got back friday. The part is only £13 or something. Apparently its a known thing to go wrong on my car apparently.
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    Emma! It may not be one issue...

    I just put my OH's Triumph GT6 through the MOT. Had an intermittant fault with the rear brake lights that I've been meaning to track down for a while so MOT gave me the excuse to get it sorted. Turned out to be a poor connection at the light unit AND a bit of gunk on the brake switch.

    Moral of the story? With cars always keep an open mind until you've solved things definitively.
 
 
 
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