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Jerky throttle on my Clio
Been running my car for almost a month now 
it's a Mark I Clio RT.
1.4 engine (Renault E7J Energy), SOHC with single point injection, 130,000 miles on the clock, new battery (I put it in this afternoon!), new oil (1000 miles ago), clean air filter. Generally runs fine - lots of power.
I only have one problem with it - the accelerator is jerky. In the lower part of the pedal's travel, it works correctly and smoothly, but at the very very top of the pedal (top 1/4" or so), I get a big jolt forward if I just touch the pedal and a big jolt back when I come off it again. Obviously it happens worse in lower gears, but I still get it in fifth on the motorway.
There's a considerable amount of slack in the accelerator cable, but Haynes says that this is correct - and I've tightened it a bit, and it doesn't help.
Any clues would be appreciated greatly!
Cheers
Jonathan
it's a Mark I Clio RT.1.4 engine (Renault E7J Energy), SOHC with single point injection, 130,000 miles on the clock, new battery (I put it in this afternoon!), new oil (1000 miles ago), clean air filter. Generally runs fine - lots of power.
I only have one problem with it - the accelerator is jerky. In the lower part of the pedal's travel, it works correctly and smoothly, but at the very very top of the pedal (top 1/4" or so), I get a big jolt forward if I just touch the pedal and a big jolt back when I come off it again. Obviously it happens worse in lower gears, but I still get it in fifth on the motorway.
There's a considerable amount of slack in the accelerator cable, but Haynes says that this is correct - and I've tightened it a bit, and it doesn't help.
Any clues would be appreciated greatly!
Cheers
Jonathan
Scroll to see replies
Reply 3
Have you checked the coil pack and HT leads?
However from what you say it sounds like a fault with the throttle itself. It might be worth completly replacing the throttle cable if you can do it yourself.
However from what you say it sounds like a fault with the throttle itself. It might be worth completly replacing the throttle cable if you can do it yourself.
Spray the cable with WD40 first! Sometimes the inside of the cable gets a bit rusty whcih causes jerky ness, get some WD40 and spray it on the end while a friend just pumps the throttle lots of times, this will move the WD40 all the way up the cable. Be sure to wipe of any of the crap that will come out
This sometimes needs doing on the clutch cable as well.
Good luck,
Graham
This sometimes needs doing on the clutch cable as well.
Good luck,
Graham
Thanks all:
As far as I know, the ignition is fine - it's got a new distributor cap and arm, and I think the leads and stuff are fine too. It runs fine.
The throttle cable seems to be fine too; the butterfly valve action looks smooth and relates well to what my foot does... but I'll put some WD40 in anyway - thanks!
The inside of the throttle body looks OK, but is there something specific I should clean, like the injector? By stepper motor, is that something to do with the idle switch thing? There's a button that the throttle mechanism rests on at idle and comes off when I press the pedal, but I don't know whether it's just a switch or it actually pushes the thing to increase the idle speed when it's cold.
The gearstick does move forwards and backwards as torque starts and stops going through the transmission, but that's normal with high mileage, isn't it? The car actually jerks forward when I just touch the gas pedal, as if I've stamped it about an inch down rather than just touched it.
As far as I know, the ignition is fine - it's got a new distributor cap and arm, and I think the leads and stuff are fine too. It runs fine.
The throttle cable seems to be fine too; the butterfly valve action looks smooth and relates well to what my foot does... but I'll put some WD40 in anyway - thanks!
The inside of the throttle body looks OK, but is there something specific I should clean, like the injector? By stepper motor, is that something to do with the idle switch thing? There's a button that the throttle mechanism rests on at idle and comes off when I press the pedal, but I don't know whether it's just a switch or it actually pushes the thing to increase the idle speed when it's cold.
The gearstick does move forwards and backwards as torque starts and stops going through the transmission, but that's normal with high mileage, isn't it? The car actually jerks forward when I just touch the gas pedal, as if I've stamped it about an inch down rather than just touched it.
Reply 8
Jonathan
The gearstick does move forwards and backwards as torque starts and stops going through the transmission, but that's normal with high mileage, isn't it? The car actually jerks forward when I just touch the gas pedal, as if I've stamped it about an inch down rather than just touched it.
worn/broken engine or transmission mount maybe? That would explain the jerkiness and the gearstick movement, especially if you only get it when "taking up the slack" as move on or off the throttle.
Get someone to put it in gear and let the clutch out with the handbrake on while you watch the engine. As the clutch starts to bite the engine will move considerably if the mounts are shot. Its probably a good idea to put it in reverse rather than 1st while doing this so if the car moves against the handbrake it wont run you over
I tried that and got my mum to tell me if the engine moved, and it didn't, but then I realised that you probably meant that I should do it with the engine running. 
not realising that you meant that, I thought that maybe the engine would move so the gearteeth could engage...
The thing is, no-one else in my house can drive a manual car - I tried getting my mum to do it while I watched, and she didn't have a clue what she was doing and just stalled it. I'll get her to take a video while I do it, though.
Shall I bring the clutch right up until it struggles, as far as it will go without stalling? Do you want me to do it with a bit of throttle or none? I'll post the video of the engine as soon as I've taken it.
But I really like your idea of worn mounts - and I get a lovely clunk most times I bring the clutch in, which could be the same thing?
not realising that you meant that, I thought that maybe the engine would move so the gearteeth could engage...The thing is, no-one else in my house can drive a manual car - I tried getting my mum to do it while I watched, and she didn't have a clue what she was doing and just stalled it. I'll get her to take a video while I do it, though.
Shall I bring the clutch right up until it struggles, as far as it will go without stalling? Do you want me to do it with a bit of throttle or none? I'll post the video of the engine as soon as I've taken it.
But I really like your idea of worn mounts - and I get a lovely clunk most times I bring the clutch in, which could be the same thing?
Right, here's a video of the engine when the clutch bites:
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v12/jonajsil/?action=view¤t=DSCN1345MOV.flv
... have my mounts gone?
thanks!
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v12/jonajsil/?action=view¤t=DSCN1345MOV.flv
... have my mounts gone?
thanks!
Reply 12
Yeah looks pretty wild doesnt it - 99% sure that shouldnt happen. Also when u put the clutch back in it shudders a bit which shouldnt happen either - the mounts should dampen out any vibration. When you consider how little torque you are putting through it compared to full throttle on the road, it is much looser than it should be.
Have a look in haynes to see where/how its mounted and see if you can get any movement out of them by shoving them by hand. You should only be able to cause 5mm or so of movement by hand. Did it make a clunking noise or anything while you videoed it?
Have a look in haynes to see where/how its mounted and see if you can get any movement out of them by shoving them by hand. You should only be able to cause 5mm or so of movement by hand. Did it make a clunking noise or anything while you videoed it?
I only ever hear a clunk when I bring the clutch in - when I'm really smooth and careful it happens maybe 50% of the time, and when I'm not careful it happens 90% of the time. It didn't clunk when I videoed it, no.
I've had a look at them properly - if I rock the engine firmly so the car sways, it moves about 5mm - maybe a bit more. The rubber under the right mounting doesn't feel too bad but the left (gearbox) mounting bush feels all dry. No idea what the lower mount feels like - it's 11pm and I can't see anything outside!
If the mounts are gone, can I just buy a set of rubber bushes and replace them myself? (I have Haynes so shouldn't be too hard.) How much would the set cost?
I've had a look at them properly - if I rock the engine firmly so the car sways, it moves about 5mm - maybe a bit more. The rubber under the right mounting doesn't feel too bad but the left (gearbox) mounting bush feels all dry. No idea what the lower mount feels like - it's 11pm and I can't see anything outside!
If the mounts are gone, can I just buy a set of rubber bushes and replace them myself? (I have Haynes so shouldn't be too hard.) How much would the set cost?
Reply 14
Jonathan
If the mounts are gone, can I just buy a set of rubber bushes and replace them myself? (I have Haynes so shouldn't be too hard.) How much would the set cost?
If the mounts are gone, can I just buy a set of rubber bushes and replace them myself? (I have Haynes so shouldn't be too hard.) How much would the set cost?
I think usually you can only buy the whole mount and not just the bushes. I have never bought any but I would guess they are probably around £10-30 each depending on size. Try here to get an idea on prices.
In theory replacing them shouldnt be difficult, assuming they arent too awkward to get at. Obviously you will need to support the engine while you do this so you will need either a hoist or a proper trolley jack with a piece of wood between the jack and the sump. A scissor/bottle jack or the jack from the boot wont be stable enough and is far too risky.
Even if the rubber bushes look ok and arent perished they can still be torn which is sometimes difficult to see. Ideally you should replace the whole lot because once one goes the other 2 have more load on them and will soon be finished off particularly with that age and mileage, although this might work out to be quite expensive. The top mount looks to move pretty freely until it touches the black chunk of rubber sticking up through it. I would guess the rubber block is supposed to be a final stop that would only normally be touched under full throttle or if you come off the clutch very quickly, however it looks like the engine moves up to the stop with very little resistance, suggesting the rubber under the mount may be shot. Levering the mounts with a big screwdriver might help to see where the movement is coming from, and possibly show up and hidden cracks/splits in the rubber.
Levering the mounts doesn't move them that much, but then I'm a weakling with bendy screwdrivers. That rubber chunk you're talking about, that's been quite clearly hitting the sides of the floating mount around it - you can see the rubber marks.
I'd like to replace the whole lot - will it be the same price from my (very) local Renault parts desk as from any other dealer?
I've got a proper trolley jack and can borrow axle stands from my next-door neighbour - and I need a new socket set. With all that stuff do you think I'm kitted out enough?
Cheers
I'd like to replace the whole lot - will it be the same price from my (very) local Renault parts desk as from any other dealer?
I've got a proper trolley jack and can borrow axle stands from my next-door neighbour - and I need a new socket set. With all that stuff do you think I'm kitted out enough?
Cheers
Reply 18
The trolley jack should be fine if you do the mounts one at a time. That way the other 2 mounts take some of the weight and stop the engine sliding off the jack. I have used this method to remove a mount while doing a timing belt and it worked fine. Just raise the jack until it starts to feel like it is taking some load (with bit of wood in between)
You shouldnt really need any other tools, but if the bolts are really badly corroded you may need dismantling fluid/breaker bar/hammer to shift them. Also if you are going to buy a socket set, the hex type ones are much less prone to round off rusty bolts than bi-hex ones.
As for prices the renault dealer may or may not be significantly more expensive than online prices. Try ringing the local parts department for a quote and compare with GSF online prices which are about £22 for the driver side top mount and £13 each for the other 2 (all excluding vat). Definitely check before buying though, as renault were on about £82 for a pair of suspension bushes for my mates laguna
You shouldnt really need any other tools, but if the bolts are really badly corroded you may need dismantling fluid/breaker bar/hammer to shift them. Also if you are going to buy a socket set, the hex type ones are much less prone to round off rusty bolts than bi-hex ones.
As for prices the renault dealer may or may not be significantly more expensive than online prices. Try ringing the local parts department for a quote and compare with GSF online prices which are about £22 for the driver side top mount and £13 each for the other 2 (all excluding vat). Definitely check before buying though, as renault were on about £82 for a pair of suspension bushes for my mates laguna
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