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Why does my car's engine chug ? please help me Watch

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    Hi

    My car was making this noise the day I was driving home after buying it about 8 months ago. I forgot to report it to the dealership as I was also having another problem with my car the same day as purchase, it was over heating and losing coolant which garage later said was head gasket so garage were paid for job and later found out by a mechanic friend that only water pump was replaced.
    also my transmission light came on day after purchase but didn't realize at the time what it meant and again forgot to mention this to the dealer as I was worked up over the over heating problem and wanted that fixed .

    now, here is my question regarding chugging noiseMy car engine chugs sometimes, I think it is usually when the engine isn't very hot. I think once it gets to half way on the gauge it stops chugging. It doesn't always chug when cold either. When it chugs which is when at a stop at lights or traffic, car feels slightly lumpy perhaps like a misfire symptom. chugging always seems to minutes.Something I notice though, when I bring the clutch up the chugging noise stops and engine sounds fine. when I come off clutch noise continuesatm the wires to my maf sensor are nor=t right and engine light on because of it, wires were cut a while ago and not been properly fixed yet but my car was chugging before the problem with maf sensor and wiring.Btw my EGR valve inc egr manifold has been replaced so can't be thatMy car is a 2006 mk2 focus sport 1.8 TDCI


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    Your car sounds like a bit of a mess TBH!

    I am having a hard time understanding exactly what you mean by a chugging noise - I keep imagining that you are driving and old tractor! I am not familiar with your car's engine, but do you know when the fuel filter was last changed? You say that you know there is a problem with the MAF sensor. Why haven't you fixed this? It isn't there purely to control the engine light on your dashboard!

    Is it only a noise or do you also notice a drop in power from the engine?
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    (Original post by Talon)
    Your car sounds like a bit of a mess TBH!

    I am having a hard time understanding exactly what you mean by a chugging noise - I keep imagining that you are driving and old tractor! I am not familiar with your car's engine, but do you know when the fuel filter was last changed? You say that you know there is a problem with the MAF sensor. Why haven't you fixed this? It isn't there purely to control the engine light on your dashboard!

    Is it only a noise or do you also notice a drop in power from the engine?

    Yes it has been a hassle and have done lots of other work to it as well. would not be too bad if I were not lied to about jobs that don't even exist e.t.c. and if I hadn't already sepnd thousands on previous car repairs.

    I am thinking of going to see an auto electrican as my mechanic friend who said he knew how to fix the maf wiring does not seem to have a clue how to fix it and I have lost my patience with him now.
    he says the wires to the maf are the wrong colors e.t.c.


    Oh, imo I would say there is a drop in power but not sure if that is related to the current problem with the maf wiring
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    (Original post by I love life)
    Hi
    I think it is usually when the engine isn't very hot. when at a stop at lights or traffic, car feels slightly lumpy perhaps like a misfire symptom..........
    Sounds like it is misfiring when idling. Does the engine management light ever come on. If so get a diagnostic.
    Given the age of the car and it picks up OK when driving, I would suspect a fuel injector.
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    (Original post by mphysical)
    Sounds like it is misfiring when idling. Does the engine management light ever come on. If so get a diagnostic.
    Given the age of the car and it picks up OK when driving, I would suspect a fuel injector.
    2 of my fuel injectors leaked several times not long after buying the car. My friend glued them back in only for them to leak a few days later. He later replace a seal on the top of one of the injectors. A few days later I smell diesel again and when we looked this time it was from the leak off pipe that goes onto the injectors, not the injectors themselves this time. So we put a cable tie on each injector to the leak off pipe. I will replace the leak off pipe and remove the cable ties soon

    I have had a diagnostics done since then and sure nothing about fuel injector showed up.
    However I took a photo one time of the laptop screen with my mobile phone so that I could capture the fault codes during the diagnostic test and I only noticed not long ago while flicking via my mobile pics and saw the photo that a code was on there and read '' fuel injector malfunction ''. When I told my mechanic friend he said it was probably from last time it was leaking and he probably reset the code afterwards.

    When I use hand held diagnostic the only thing it reads is related to maf wiring issue but then again laptop diagnostics does pick up much better on faults then handheld diagnostics

    Engine light is constantly on ATM but pointing only towards the maf wiring issue
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    Well... I'd assume it'd be one of these problems.
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    Low fuel pressure

    Insufficient fuel supply

    Poor fuel quality or contamination

    Dirty fuel filter or faulty filter head assembly

    Faulty/dirty injectors

    Faulty high pressure pump

    Faulty pressure regulator sensor

    Air intake restrictions

    Turbo problems

    EGR problems

    More injector problems

    Cam crank sensor problems

    Injector wiring problems

    Internal engine problems (mechanical failure basically)
    In short, get that damn leak sorted out. It may well be what's causing it.

    Also, smoke can be a good way to determine what's wrong.

    Black smoke - Air:fuel imbalance.
    Could result from:
    Faulty injectors
    Faulty injector pump
    Dirty air cleaner
    Faulty turbo or intercooler
    Problems within the cylinder head (valves clogging up due to faulty EGR)

    White smoke - Fuel isn't burning correctly, will burn your eyes.
    Engine/pump timing out
    Fuel starvation sending the timings off
    Low engine compression
    Contaminated fuel (generally water or petrol)

    Blue smoke - Ye be burning oil
    Engine problems (worn cylinders, piston rings, faulty valves, faulty valve stem seals)
    Too much oil
    Faulty injector pump/lift pump allowing oil to mix with diesel.
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    (Original post by TheMcSame)
    Well... I'd assume it'd be one of these problems.
    Spoiler:
    Show

    Low fuel pressure

    Insufficient fuel supply

    Poor fuel quality or contamination

    Dirty fuel filter or faulty filter head assembly

    Faulty/dirty injectors

    Faulty high pressure pump

    Faulty pressure regulator sensor

    Air intake restrictions

    Turbo problems

    EGR problems

    More injector problems

    Cam crank sensor problems

    Injector wiring problems

    Internal engine problems (mechanical failure basically)
    In short, get that damn leak sorted out. It may well be what's causing it.

    Also, smoke can be a good way to determine what's wrong.

    Black smoke - Air:fuel imbalance.
    Could result from:
    Faulty injectors
    Faulty injector pump
    Dirty air cleaner
    Faulty turbo or intercooler
    Problems within the cylinder head (valves clogging up due to faulty EGR)

    White smoke - Fuel isn't burning correctly, will burn your eyes.
    Engine/pump timing out
    Fuel starvation sending the timings off
    Low engine compression
    Contaminated fuel (generally water or petrol)

    Blue smoke - Ye be burning oil
    Engine problems (worn cylinders, piston rings, faulty valves, faulty valve stem seals)
    Too much oil
    Faulty injector pump/lift pump allowing oil to mix with diesel.
    Hi, thanks for the reply.

    I agree with some of the things you have listed but not all and some of those have been looked at or replaced anyway.

    EGR Valve inc manifold has been replaced- still chugging so can't be that.
    .Head gasket was apparently done and was making same noise before and after so can't be that (although several mechanics have said only water pump was replaced not head gasket so they say I was conned)
    .Turbo has been faulty in the past i.e. the bearing but although it's bearing has been replaced I suspect it is still faulty as if unusual noises and lack of boost e.t.c.

    Fuel filter has been replaced, glow plugs were tested and lit up well but maybe faulty and need replacing still ?

    engine valve stem seals were done with head gasket ( that is if the yactually did head gasket and not just water pump)


    MY car is not smoking whatsoever, even in very cold weather there is no smoke or absolute minimal smoke of that I am proud about

    . not too much oil, just the right amount , about in the middle of the dipstick


    I am wondering if when I sort out the wiring problem with the maf sensor if this would stop the chugging noise ? as I said though it was still chugging before the wiring fault but who know's ?



    Oh, and sort what leak out ????? why did you mention leak, my car has no leak ??!!!
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    Haven't we been through this before?

    The MAF isn't connected. The ECU hasn't got a clue how to fuel this engine.
    You know you have a problem there so until you sort that out there's no point discussing it further.
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    (Original post by I love life)
    I am wondering if when I sort out the wiring problem with the maf sensor if this would stop the chugging noise ? as I said though it was still chugging before the wiring fault but who know's ?
    The maf sensor is an important part of the engine and if it isn't working properly it can cause all sorts of problems. It is a good place to start as you already know that there is something wrong with it!

    If the problem still exists afterwards then at least you know where the problem isn't.
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    (Original post by I love life)
    -snip-
    Oh, and sort what leak out ????? why did you mention leak, my car has no leak ??!!!
    I know you've already ruled out some problems. It was just easier to list the lot rather than check through the thread.

    As for the leak, I must've misread your last post or something.

    Either way, the point still stands, although not in the same way. The problem is probably something fuel related if you ask me. What is it exactly? I wouldn't know. As the others said, I'd get the MAF sensor sorted out. It's a pretty important part which needs to work properly.
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    (Original post by JC.)
    Haven't we been through this before?

    The MAF isn't connected. The ECU hasn't got a clue how to fuel this engine.
    You know you have a problem there so until you sort that out there's no point discussing it further.
    (Original post by Talon)
    The maf sensor is an important part of the engine and if it isn't working properly it can cause all sorts of problems. It is a good place to start as you already know that there is something wrong with it!

    If the problem still exists afterwards then at least you know where the problem isn't.
    (Original post by TheMcSame)
    I know you've already ruled out some problems. It was just easier to list the lot rather than check through the thread.

    As for the leak, I must've misread your last post or something.

    Either way, the point still stands, although not in the same way. The problem is probably something fuel related if you ask me. What is it exactly? I wouldn't know. As the others said, I'd get the MAF sensor sorted out. It's a pretty important part which needs to work properly.

    Hi all, thanks for replying

    My car was chugging way before the problem with the maf sensor and maf wiring loom issues so not sure it has anything to do with the chugging noise but obviously the problem with the maf harness needs fixing so guess I will find out if this was was the cause once maf wiring is sorted.

    When I bought My car it originally had a 6 prong Maf sensor on it with 6 wires from the harness connecting to it. I later bought a new 6 pin maf sensor and put that on but still had problem with maf sensor. So my friend Brian had a used 4 prong sensor in his garage so he took off the maf sensor and put the 4 pin maf sensor on,
    As my car had 6 wires going to the previous 6 pin maf sensor and he had taken that sensor off and put the 4 pin sensor on, Brian connected only 4 wires to the 4 pin sensor and the other 2 wires at each end he put in a loop saying that they were not important because they are just for an open loop, he later cut off the 2 wires, 1 at each end so now car only has 4 wires in the maf wiring loom but according to Brian it didn't need the other 2 wires that he cut off as he said they were just open loop

    But I am still having problems with the maf wiring , and engine lightlight still on ATM because of it.
    Despite the maf problem still present the car is not suffering as bad since swapping the color sequence of the wires around although the colors is not correct atm as we cant find what color goes where it must be close as car not stalling any more, but when you rev too hard the engine suddenly thuds and won't pick up speed or takes a long time to accelerate, also when engine not started for a while and you start engine, when you press accelerator for first 5 seconds or so the revs drop as if it wants to stall but is OK after that.
    Those symptoms occured for first time on the day maf wiring was cut.

    Now Brian is saying put the 6 prong sensor back on, so we will try that ( though there is only 4 wires now as he cut the 2 wires off, 1 at each end but as he said those 2 wires were just open loop and not needed )
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    (Original post by JC.)
    Haven't we been through this before?

    The MAF isn't connected. The ECU hasn't got a clue how to fuel this engine.
    You know you have a problem there so until you sort that out there's no point discussing it further.
    I'm beginning to suspect the OP thinks that if he posts enough threads about his car it will heal itself. Along with the MAF issue, I'm sure I wrote a fairly detailed explanation as to why supergluing/cable tieing fuel injectors has a fairly high risk of very gruesome injury, if not worse, several months ago...
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    (Original post by I love life)
    Hi all, thanks for replying

    My car was chugging way before the problem with the maf sensor and maf wiring loom issues so not sure it has anything to do with the chugging noise but obviously the problem with the maf harness needs fixing so guess I will find out if this was was the cause once maf wiring is sorted.

    When I bought My car it originally had a 6 prong Maf sensor on it with 6 wires from the harness connecting to it. I later bought a new 6 pin maf sensor and put that on but still had problem with maf sensor. So my friend Brian had a used 4 prong sensor in his garage so he took off the maf sensor and put the 4 pin maf sensor on,
    As my car had 6 wires going to the previous 6 pin maf sensor and he had taken that sensor off and put the 4 pin sensor on, Brian connected only 4 wires to the 4 pin sensor and the other 2 wires at each end he put in a loop saying that they were not important because they are just for an open loop, he later cut off the 2 wires, 1 at each end so now car only has 4 wires in the maf wiring loom but according to Brian it didn't need the other 2 wires that he cut off as he said they were just open loop

    But I am still having problems with the maf wiring , and engine lightlight still on ATM because of it.
    Despite the maf problem still present the car is not suffering as bad since swapping the color sequence of the wires around although the colors is not correct atm as we cant find what color goes where it must be close as car not stalling any more, but when you rev too hard the engine suddenly thuds and won't pick up speed or takes a long time to accelerate, also when engine not started for a while and you start engine, when you press accelerator for first 5 seconds or so the revs drop as if it wants to stall but is OK after that.
    Those symptoms occured for first time on the day maf wiring was cut.

    Now Brian is saying put the 6 prong sensor back on, so we will try that ( though there is only 4 wires now as he cut the 2 wires off, 1 at each end but as he said those 2 wires were just open loop and not needed )
    Sounds like Brian knows **** all about engine control systems. If the ECU isn't seeing the expected information then it has to guess, which puts it into limp home mode. It's quite likely the 'open loop' that Brian refers to is actually for sensing intake air temperature, so if it's been cut out then the ECU has to assume a worst case scenario and fuel accordingly. It may be something different but whatever information is on those two pins is there for a reason. Put the damn thing back together as it was designed and then see if it's still faulty. And if it is, keep it well away from Brian.
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    (Original post by CurlyBen)
    I'm beginning to suspect the OP thinks that if he posts enough threads about his car it will heal itself. Along with the MAF issue, I'm sure I wrote a fairly detailed explanation as to why supergluing/cable tieing fuel injectors has a fairly high risk of very gruesome injury, if not worse, several months ago...
    I think the issue is the lad he is sending his car in to. Im pretty sure I wrote a fairly detailed explanation on one of his previous posts about a mechanic that claims an EGR clean is a "big job" probably isnt worth their salt as a mechanic. Also all the sketchy backstreet **** he has been describing with the MAF issues. I know plenty of "mechanics" like your mate. They are alright for minor maintenance work but giving them a car to diagnose and fix tends to end in tears.

    Imo just cut your loses & sell the motor. Or take it to someone who knows what the f*ck they are doing.
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    You can't just stick any old maf sensor in, connect some of the wires up and hope for the best. The ecu won't be getting the data it expects. For your car's sake I don't think "Brian" should be allowed near it again.
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    (Original post by CAElite)
    I think the issue is the lad he is sending his car in to. Im pretty sure I wrote a fairly detailed explanation on one of his previous posts about a mechanic that claims an EGR clean is a "big job" probably isnt worth their salt as a mechanic. Also all the sketchy backstreet **** he has been describing with the MAF issues. I know plenty of "mechanics" like your mate. They are alright for minor maintenance work but giving them a car to diagnose and fix tends to end in tears.

    Imo just cut your loses & sell the motor. Or take it to someone who knows what the f*ck they are doing.
    Six months we've been hearing about that MAF sensor... I think it's probably time for the ignore list.

    And he's definitely not my mate If I was taking my car to a mate for work to be done on it, it would be someone who wasn't stumped by the wire colours not matching up
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    (Original post by CurlyBen)
    Six months we've been hearing about that MAF sensor... I think it's probably time for the ignore list.

    And he's definitely not my mate If I was taking my car to a mate for work to be done on it, it would be someone who wasn't stumped by the wire colours not matching up
    Sorry posted that at 7AM. I meant his (I Love Life's) sketchy backstreet mechanic mate who keeps giving him terrible advice.
 
 
 
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