The Student Room Group

Project Car

Looking to get a car to work on to learn my way around the mechanicals etc. of cars in my spare time. I would like it to be something which is easy to work on and cheap (initially looking at something which is sub £1000).

I am tempted by one of the following:

Ford Puma
Toyota Celica
Mazda MX-5

Anyone have any opinions on these? or any other suggestions?
I think you'll struggle to get a good rust free MX5 for under a grand. They're also just about on that cusp of appreciating in value so good examples if they aren't already, will be seeing their prices rise. It would be a sound investment if you can find one rust free.

The Celica leaves me numb. It doesn't look especially good, it doesn't have any particularly unique or special qualities. It drives well and it's reliable. They aren't future classics in the making.

The Puma is interesting. Really good chassis based on its Fiesta underpinnings. The Yamaha developed 1.7 is a good engine, not sure how easy they are to do your own spannering on though.

Other suggestions I'd throw in the pot would be the Saxo VTR or VTS, and you may just about find a Clio 172 within budget.
Reliant Regal
Reply 3
My vote would be a granny-kept (bone stock) mk2 Fiesta or Polo of a similar vintage. Super easy to work on, pretty cheap, and loads of parts out there, both replacement and upgrade. Also pretty easy to tune up (cams, heads, exhausts, carbs). Really fun to drive too for what they are.
Do you want the car to be a daily driver too, or is it just a project that's going to sit off road while you play with it? Do you have any tools, or do they need to be included in your budget too? (You could very easily spend £1k on tools alone!)

A Land Rover Series/Defender is pretty good to work on but if you can find anything for £1k or less you're going to need plenty of budget afterwards to replace the bits that are knackered or missing!
A classic Mini is the other thought but I think the supply of 'project' cars is getting a bit limited now.
BMW Z3s are available pretty cheaply these days, they could make a fun little project.
I'm intrigued by the Puma, but being a fairly uncommon car, I'd be hesitant before finding out more about how they are to work on, and the availability (and price) of parts.
Reply 6
Original post by Darwinion
Reliant Regal


Whilst I do not really know the Regal, the Scimitar SS1 1600 is very simple as a starter.

Fibreglass bolt on panels, most parts can be found readily, no Engine Management (It has a Carb), interesting (or ugly to some) look.

The Ford CVH engine whilst having issues re oil circulation if abused is not complicated.

Downside only two seats, upside no body rust and if you get a galvanised chassis version (usually circa 1987 onward single wiper) not that many nasties.

The tricky parts to get are the quarterlight frames,,replacement trailing arms are pricey, the electrics though not complicated seem to have a habit of losing earth so you will spend a fair amount of time getting to play with test bulbs/multimeter, but this is good training in car electrics. Fuel tanks also not cheap.

But on the positive side easy practice on brakes and suspension, the rear brakes being drums and the front discs. Also get practice replacing fuel lines (old ones perish so worth switching) and whilst cambelt removal process is simple you do have to unbolt front crossmember.

Not the car to learn to weld on (i don't) but a good car to work on with only sockets, screwdrivers, torx heads, meter, bearing pullers, and if really get the bug headwork, upgrade carbs, gas flowing can tweak performance.

If the bug takes the 1800 turbo version whilst more complicated can be tweaked to give interesting performance (though insurers may not be as keen as some have been modded well beyond road use)

Price wise re the 1600 non runners at £400-600, runners say £1000-£1500 and really sorted say £2,500-£4,000

Whilst cheap there were not many made (about 1500) so eventually if you wait a lifetime they may go up in value further.

If you do not mind rust/welding an old VW Beetle or Morris Minor is mechanically really simple.

If I was to go for any still cheap(ish) classic it would be a volvo 1800, but their price is getting a bit high, the Trimph Spitfire is another low cost entry.

If i had a choice of classic (money no object) an early mark 1 Escort would be my choice, but that is due to sentiment (second car, first was a mark II cortina), but a cheapish one (£5,000) will need welding skills , a rust free will be expensive.

Other plus is classic car insurance can be very cheap, even if a younger driver, I think they must base it on the fact the cars are often not on the road.:smile:

Vested interest-I have a currently off the road Scimitar SS1.
Original post by DJKL
Whilst I do not really know the Regal, the Scimitar SS1 1600 is very simple as a starter.

Fibreglass bolt on panels, most parts can be found readily, no Engine Management (It has a Carb), interesting (or ugly to some) look.

The Ford CVH engine whilst having issues re oil circulation if abused is not complicated.

Downside only two seats, upside no body rust and if you get a galvanised chassis version (usually circa 1987 onward single wiper) not that many nasties.

The tricky parts to get are the quarterlight frames,,replacement trailing arms are pricey, the electrics though not complicated seem to have a habit of losing earth so you will spend a fair amount of time getting to play with test bulbs/multimeter, but this is good training in car electrics. Fuel tanks also not cheap.

But on the positive side easy practice on brakes and suspension, the rear brakes being drums and the front discs. Also get practice replacing fuel lines (old ones perish so worth switching) and whilst cambelt removal process is simple you do have to unbolt front crossmember.

Not the car to learn to weld on (i don't) but a good car to work on with only sockets, screwdrivers, torx heads, meter, bearing pullers, and if really get the bug headwork, upgrade carbs, gas flowing can tweak performance.

If the bug takes the 1800 turbo version whilst more complicated can be tweaked to give interesting performance (though insurers may not be as keen as some have been modded well beyond road use)

Price wise re the 1600 non runners at £400-600, runners say £1000-£1500 and really sorted say £2,500-£4,000

Whilst cheap there were not many made (about 1500) so eventually if you wait a lifetime they may go up in value further.

If you do not mind rust/welding an old VW Beetle or Morris Minor is mechanically really simple.

If I was to go for any still cheap(ish) classic it would be a volvo 1800, but their price is getting a bit high, the Trimph Spitfire is another low cost entry.

If i had a choice of classic (money no object) an early mark 1 Escort would be my choice, but that is due to sentiment (second car, first was a mark II cortina), but a cheapish one (£5,000) will need welding skills , a rust free will be expensive.

Other plus is classic car insurance can be very cheap, even if a younger driver, I think they must base it on the fact the cars are often not on the road.:smile:

Vested interest-I have a currently off the road Scimitar SS1.


Downside to classic car insurance (at least the ones I've seen) is that they often have very low max annual mileage caps.
Original post by XMaramena
Downside to classic car insurance (at least the ones I've seen) is that they often have very low max annual mileage caps.


Because most of them don't expect the car too last more than a few hundred miles before they break down :P

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