Anyone good with electronic engineering? Need advice

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hamzaahmad786
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#1
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So in my local community centre, some active speakers have been wired into switched fused spurs (the IEC cable has been integrated into the spur). The only problem is, they are 4 metres high and are used for a few hours a week which means the switches have to be flicked with a long rod every time to turn them on/off. (The speakers are EV's which have overheating issues, hence why they are turned off after use).

I want to be able to control them remotely without having to touch the wiring behind the wall. I came up with this and want some advice before I apply to the speakers.
1. Switched spur has an integrated IEC cable (currently connected to the active speakers)
2. IEC cable (Male end) will be connected to IEC extension cable (Female end)
3. In the middle of the IEC extension cable will be a Sonoff switch
4. Blue and Brown will be routed through the Sonoff switch
5. Earth will not be routed through thr Sonoff as it does not support earth
6. Earth will be left as it is (not tampered)
7. IEC cable (Male end) will plug into the active speaker

[IMG] Illustration attached


I can't see any issue but can anyone knowledgeable with electric confirm is the Sonoff 10amp switch this is appropriate for 800W/230v speakers with 0.4A at 1.8th power?
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uberteknik
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(Original post by hamzaahmad786)
So in my local community centre, some active speakers have been wired into switched fused spurs (the IEC cable has been integrated into the spur). The only problem is, they are 4 metres high and are used for a few hours a week which means the switches have to be flicked with a long rod every time to turn them on/off. (The speakers are EV's which have overheating issues, hence why they are turned off after use).

I want to be able to control them remotely without having to touch the wiring behind the wall. I came up with this and want some advice before I apply to the speakers.
1. Switched spur has an integrated IEC cable (currently connected to the active speakers)
2. IEC cable (Male end) will be connected to IEC extension cable (Female end)
3. In the middle of the IEC extension cable will be a Sonoff switch
4. Blue and Brown will be routed through the Sonoff switch
5. Earth will not be routed through thr Sonoff as it does not support earth
6. Earth will be left as it is (not tampered)
7. IEC cable (Male end) will plug into the active speaker

[IMG] Illustration attached


I can't see any issue but can anyone knowledgeable with electric confirm is the Sonoff 10amp switch this is appropriate for 800W/230v speakers with 0.4A at 1.8th power?
The switch will be fine. It's rated at 3kW and the EV is class D 800W so plenty of current margin for the switch.

You need to be careful with the plugs and sockets used throughout:

The kettle lead outlet from the switched spur, should be female for safety, or there will be exposed live conductors. Which means the Sonoff will need a male plug to receive power.

Likewise, check the EV cab as this should be male on the cab itself which means the flying lead power out from the Sonoff unit must be female. This also complies with no exposed live conductors.

NB. Make sure the Sonoff is secured well out of reach and not left to dangle as this will be a safety hazard.

Also, you will need the setup to be PAT certified - you should be doing this anyway with all your kit in a public space, as it's a legal requirement.

Finally, make sure the SIM card number is only given out to as few people as possible and on a trusted basis. Don't want it to be turned off mid use for a prank.
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hamzaahmad786
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Thanks I mistakenly used the wrong image. It is as you have described.
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Joinedup
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I'd have a minor worry about the sonoff being wifi controlled when it probably doesn't really need to be... if someone decides to turn off the router before they go home then someone else rocks up and tries to turn on the speakers they won't be able to and won't be obvious what the problem is. Might also be annoying if someone forgets to pay the broadband bill (or there's any other sort of problem with the router)
If you put the sonoff in to a communal space it's going to be your phone ringing every time someone can't use it.

Might be better with something more like a garage door opener with a remote (which tbh can also get lost or taken home by mistake) or even a pull cord switch with sufficient rating - they make ones that'll switch a shower.

Sonoff itself is going to be good enough though (afaict) - people have tested them out on youtube and tried to make them catch fire etc* but they seem to be fine.

* you might be interested in this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pooW8nZwp2M
note the sonoff uses 0.66 Watts continuous when off and about 1 Watt when it's switched on.
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Joinedup
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P.S. I'd consider using the bigger 16A sonoff for a couple of reasons

It's got an earth conductor through the unit which will make a neater and more professional looking job - I think this alone would justify the extra £3 or so it costs.

on a liability note - it'll tolerate a higher current just in case anyone starts plugging kettles and hairdriers etc into it when you're not around to tell them not to
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