Rust and Touch Up Painting?

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StriderHort
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#1
Report Thread starter 2 years ago
#1
Looking for any and all advice about this as never successfully done it before. I've obv been looking at youtube and wikihow and such as well, but curious what other folk do.

Got a few nasty rust bits around wheel arches and 1 particularly nasty bit at the bottom corner of a door.

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I'm assuming these are bad to the point of sanding right down the bare metal and getting under the bubbly bits as well? It's just one of the wee primer/paint/gloss pen sets i've got and a bunch of sanding stuff. It's all low down areas and i'm not so much fussed about it looking perfect as stopping the rust and having everything 'black' again. Is it basically just a matter of taping off-sanding-priming-sanding-painting-sanding-glossing-sanding?

(The first time I tried this with I used way too much paint and knobbed it up, the second time I went to paint a bit of bonnet and forgot the engine was still hot )
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IWMTom
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#2
Report 2 years ago
#2
(Original post by StriderHort)
Looking for any and all advice about this as never successfully done it before. I've obv been looking at youtube and wikihow and such as well, but curious what other folk do.

Got a few nasty rust bits around wheel arches and 1 particularly nasty bit at the bottom corner of a door.

Name:  wheel arch.jpg
Views: 47
Size:  90.2 KB Name:  wheel.jpg
Views: 43
Size:  224.5 KB Name:  door rust.jpg
Views: 49
Size:  255.2 KB

I'm assuming these are bad to the point of sanding right down the bare metal and getting under the bubbly bits as well? It's just one of the wee primer/paint/gloss pen sets i've got and a bunch of sanding stuff. It's all low down areas and i'm not so much fussed about it looking perfect as stopping the rust and having everything 'black' again. Is it basically just a matter of taping off-sanding-priming-sanding-painting-sanding-glossing-sanding?

(The first time I tried this with I used way too much paint and knobbed it up, the second time I went to paint a bit of bonnet and forgot the engine was still hot )
A Sharpie will do the job no problem 👍
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StriderHort
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#3
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#3
(Original post by IWMTom)
A Sharpie will do the job no problem 👍
I tried using black tape but some goth kids stole it :mad:
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IWMTom
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#4
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#4
(Original post by StriderHort)
I tried using black tape but some goth kids stole it :mad:
Cleverboy1991 might know what to do - I hear he's an expert in all things Motoring after having resolved a full list of things that... *checks notes*..... he broke.
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maeger
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#5
Report 2 years ago
#5
The only correct way to fix this is by cutting/welding new arches. You can try the bondo/paint bodge by yourself, you will get crap to kind of ok results depending on how much OCD you have. After a year the rust will begin to redevelop again, which is why most body shops will shun you away from doing it themselves, and talk you into welding (and charge a grand per arch). Ultimately it's the fault of the assembly/paint job of the car when it was built.

It's depressing. 90s to early 2000s JDM and Korean cars are the worst. Water works it's way into the arch, sound insulation foam absorbs it, holds the salt to the metal and boom. This is also why the NA MX5 is such a cheap car in this country, and why they're also total rust buckets.

Get it looking nice on the cheap, and then spray the **** out of it with ACF50. Keep doing that over the winter/rainy period and the rust won't show again for a long time, and won't get any worse. In fact, I advise using ACF50 on any exposed paint work/metal on an already rust compromised car.
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StriderHort
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#6
Report Thread starter 2 years ago
#6
(Original post by maeger)
The only correct way to fix this is by cutting/welding new arches. You can try the bondo/paint bodge by yourself, you will get crap to kind of ok results depending on how much OCD you have. After a year the rust will begin to redevelop again, which is why most body shops will shun you away from doing it themselves, and talk you into welding (and charge a grand per arch). Ultimately it's the fault of the assembly/paint job of the car when it was built.

It's depressing. 90s to early 2000s JDM and Korean cars are the worst. Water works it's way into the arch, sound insulation foam absorbs it, holds the salt to the metal and boom. This is also why the NA MX5 is such a cheap car in this country, and why they're also total rust buckets.

Get it looking nice on the cheap, and then spray the **** out of it with ACF50. Keep doing that over the winter/rainy period and the rust won't show again for a long time, and won't get any worse. In fact, I advise using ACF50 on any exposed paint work/metal on an already rust compromised car.
Yeah, given what I paid for this car and my budget we can safely dispense with any 'welding new arches' notions

The arches aren't the ones really worrying me, that feels far more like 'surface' rust and the majority of painting would be unseen inside of the arches. it's the one in the door that's now giving me pause for thought seeing it close up, I don't think any amount of sanding will cut it and i suspect ill need to properly grind and refill it. I've already talked myself out of trying it today and ill wait till i've got a few sunny days free to take my time with it.

Already thinking touch up pens might not be up to this and i'll need to go for sprays :/
Last edited by StriderHort; 2 years ago
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maeger
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#7
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#7
Chris Fix (as much as I find him annoying) does a good rough idea video on how to do it. Yeah, to do it as "properly" as you can, bondo/bondo reinforcement sheets, anti corrosion primer, paint code matched spray paint (you have a black SLK right?), and some good clear coat. Don't obsess about it, most of the time from about 5 feet back the job looks a lot better than when the rust was there before.

This is purely a cosmetic fix! It does not address the underlying issue of a poorly painted/corrosion proofed car from the factory (not trying to diss or be a ****, it's just how it is mate). My car is in exactly the same state as yours, it is frustrating.

Forgetting the cosmetics, I'd consider some rust inhibitors (genuinely not trying to sell you ACF50, it's just what I use and it works) as well, spray it everywhere that gets exposed to water/salt (kinda pointless in the summer now though lol).
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LTEcactus
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#8
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#8
(Original post by StriderHort)
Yeah, given what I paid for this car and my budget we can safely dispense with any 'welding new arches' notions

The arches aren't the ones really worrying me, that feels far more like 'surface' rust and the majority of painting would be unseen inside of the arches. it's the one in the door that's now giving me pause for thought seeing it close up, I don't think any amount of sanding will cut it and i suspect ill need to properly grind and refill it. I've already talked myself out of trying it today and ill wait till i've got a few sunny days free to take my time with it.

Already thinking touch up pens might not be up to this and i'll need to go for sprays :/
Go to a scrapyard and find some new arches and a door, hopefully in the same colour!
Also give the inside of the arches, and the sills a good look over, as you don't want it to be rusting on the structural parts.
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Dunnig Kruger
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#9
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#9
Stick some vaseline over it and keep using the car till it fails the MOT for something expensive or until the engine, clutch or gearbox goes on it.

Or have a go at repairing ot yourself and don't worry if you make a mess of it. Having fun making mistakes on old car repairs is fine.

Buy another car when this reaches end of life. A cheapo used one. And run that into the scrapyard too.

It's only a car. A tool for a job. If it's getting near end of life it's getting near end of life. You might get another year or two out of this one. Just keep it safe and don't sink a lot of money into it.

Now and the next few months should be a good time to buy used cars.
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StriderHort
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#10
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#10
(Original post by maeger)
Chris Fix (as much as I find him annoying) does a good rough idea video on how to do it. Yeah, to do it as "properly" as you can, bondo/bondo reinforcement sheets, anti corrosion primer, paint code matched spray paint (you have a black SLK right?), and some good clear coat. Don't obsess about it, most of the time from about 5 feet back the job looks a lot better than when the rust was there before.

This is purely a cosmetic fix! It does not address the underlying issue of a poorly painted/corrosion proofed car from the factory (not trying to diss or be a ****, it's just how it is mate). My car is in exactly the same state as yours, it is frustrating.

Forgetting the cosmetics, I'd consider some rust inhibitors (genuinely not trying to sell you ACF50, it's just what I use and it works) as well, spray it everywhere that gets exposed to water/salt (kinda pointless in the summer now though lol).
Yeah I 'll give him a look cheers. I have the right code paint anyway and vrious primers and coats, and yeah this is very much a DIY job, i'l be happy with 'alright', I know what you mean though, it'll just be temp and i really will need to use some sort of inhibitor/filler. For what I paid for the car i'm really not fussed, utter bargain.
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Reality Check
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#11
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#11
(Original post by IWMTom)
Cleverboy1991 might know what to do - I hear he's an expert in all things Motoring after having resolved a full list of things that... *checks notes*..... he broke.
Baby oil, probably :laugh:
(Original post by StriderHort)
Looking for any and all advice about this as never successfully done it before. I've obv been looking at youtube and wikihow and such as well, but curious what other folk do.

Got a few nasty rust bits around wheel arches and 1 particularly nasty bit at the bottom corner of a door.

Name:  wheel arch.jpg
Views: 47
Size:  90.2 KB Name:  wheel.jpg
Views: 43
Size:  224.5 KB Name:  door rust.jpg
Views: 49
Size:  255.2 KB

I'm assuming these are bad to the point of sanding right down the bare metal and getting under the bubbly bits as well? It's just one of the wee primer/paint/gloss pen sets i've got and a bunch of sanding stuff. It's all low down areas and i'm not so much fussed about it looking perfect as stopping the rust and having everything 'black' again. Is it basically just a matter of taping off-sanding-priming-sanding-painting-sanding-glossing-sanding?

(The first time I tried this with I used way too much paint and knobbed it up, the second time I went to paint a bit of bonnet and forgot the engine was still hot )
When I was a nipper, I'm sure you used to be able to get some phosphoric-acid thing in a black bottle with a red lid from Halfrauds or the like which promised to 'kill rust'. I wonder if it still exists.
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StriderHort
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#12
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#12
(Original post by LTEcactus)
Go to a scrapyard and find some new arches and a door, hopefully in the same colour!
Also give the inside of the arches, and the sills a good look over, as you don't want it to be rusting on the structural parts.
A new door?! that's a bit friggin drastic surely? I know it's not obv from the photo but the entire patch, bubbled paint included is the size of a postage stamp. I'll be having a proper inspection before I do any work but inside the arches looks 'alright', the paints flaking but only a few pinpricks of rust really. No rust warnings on it's MOTs for what that's worth.
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StriderHort
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#13
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#13
(Original post by Dunnig Kruger)
Stick some vaseline over it and keep using the car till it fails the MOT for something expensive or until the engine, clutch or gearbox goes on it.

Or have a go at repairing ot yourself and don't worry if you make a mess of it. Having fun making mistakes on old car repairs is fine.

Buy another car when this reaches end of life. A cheapo used one. And run that into the scrapyard too.

It's only a car. A tool for a job. If it's getting near end of life it's getting near end of life. You might get another year or two out of this one. Just keep it safe and don't sink a lot of money into it.

Now and the next few months should be a good time to buy used cars.
Pretty much my plan really, This car was always for learning on, I can seemingly keep on top of the engine and the autobox is behaving. It'll need fresh tires but otherwise i'm 'confident' come MOT time of no big surprises. I have to accept there's a limit to how badly i can paint :P As said they're all low bits that are hard to see. The only real money i've spend on this car has been tools that i can use on other things...otherwise it's just been wee tubes, valves, bulbs and fluids. Again, total bargain for what I paid, even if it died tomorrow, from the coughing error ridden mess i got it's now a silky beast
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StriderHort
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#14
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#14
(Original post by Reality Check)
When I was a nipper, I'm sure you used to be able to get some phosphoric-acid thing in a black bottle with a red lid from Halfrauds or the like which promised to 'kill rust'. I wonder if it still exists.
I think so, or like it, i'm seeing plenty that claim to act as an inhibitor or simply kill it on contact (). I think we changed our laws on acid concentrations a few years ago so don't know if that would have any effect on these products.

I'll def need to use something decent on it, just sanding and painting fees like a 'sooner rather than later' problem. :/
Last edited by StriderHort; 2 years ago
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CurlyBen
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#15
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#15
(Original post by Reality Check)
Baby oil, probably :laugh:


When I was a nipper, I'm sure you used to be able to get some phosphoric-acid thing in a black bottle with a red lid from Halfrauds or the like which promised to 'kill rust'. I wonder if it still exists.
Kurust maybe? That's still around. I have a litre of 'rust remover' from Machine Mart which gives a half-decent phosphate coating. I can't say I've tried painting it though.

Still, not much to lose in this case! I found you have to do really thin layers when it comes to the lacquer coats, it runs very easily
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Reality Check
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#16
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#16
(Original post by CurlyBen)
Kurust maybe? That's still around. I have a litre of 'rust remover' from Machine Mart which gives a half-decent phosphate coating. I can't say I've tried painting it though.

Still, not much to lose in this case! I found you have to do really thin layers when it comes to the lacquer coats, it runs very easily
Found it - it was Jenolite:

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I agree with you too: it's worth a go.
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StriderHort
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#17
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#17
(Original post by CurlyBen)
Kurust maybe?
(Original post by Reality Check)
Found it - it was Jenolite:
Cheers both, I was having a look at the Kurust stuff already

They both claim slightly different things though, Kurust implies it converts the rust into something you can paint on...but i suspect then you never know for sure how well it did...

The Jenolite stuff seems more straight forward, it seemingly just kills the rust and you wipe/brush it down to bare metal and worry about your own damn primer. Which is sounding possibly the better option.
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