Original post by Qer
what to look for if your buying a car (used). How to check engine these sort of things.....
If person dont have any experience with cars?
If person dont have any experience with cars?
Look under the bonnet - is there an engine? Good, that's the engine checked.
Original post by IWMTom
Look under the bonnet - is there an engine? Good, that's the engine checked.
Original post by Qer
Sorry!
Original post by Qer
what to look for if your buying a car (used). How to check engine these sort of things.....
If person dont have any experience with cars?
If person dont have any experience with cars?
Not sure why everybody's being so dismissive of you here, it's a good question you're asking
Ok so first up you want to check around the exterior to see if the car's in good condition -- any scratches / bumps that look more than just the car being thrown in a hedge to let someone by should be inquired about.
Check around for rust.
Check the oil - just use the dipstick for this
Check all fluids if possible, brakes, coolant etc. This isn't possible on all cars (on mine it requires a lot of labour to access the tanks)
Turn on the lights, and check they all work, especially brake and fogs, as you never see those yourself.
Check the tyres, do they have enough tread, and are they inflated?
Moving on to the drive
Don't buy unless you can test drive.
You want to have as long of an MOT as possible. I usually go for 10 months minimum, or ask the dealer if they can get it checked and extended.
Make sure you can get a cold start. Otherwise come back later. Lots of issues can be revealed by starting a cold engine.
When you first start the car, does it make any noises? If there is a squeaking / screaming sound, it's likely just the engine's timing belt. Try to inspect this if possible - it could be (and is usually) just loose, so isn't much of an issue, however if it has any damage, try to get a quote from a mechanic as to how much it would cost, and then decide if you still want to buy; it usually doesn't cost much (do this after the drive). This article has more info: https://www.dumblittleman.com/how-do-i-stop-my-belt-from-squeaking-when-i-start-my-car/
Clutch; how high is the bite point? Will it need replacing soon? Does the car slip out of gear?
Check the controls: Windows working? Windscreen wipers, high beams? etc.
Fuel system okay? Check the mpg. Is it lower than it should be? Is anything leaking?
At some point in the test drive you want to hit 70 - this obviously isn't essential but high speeds can expose any problems with the car; try to get on a motorway / dual carriageway if possible. If you hear any unusual sounds try to find their source, and decide whether they need fixing. Here's another article: https://www.bankrate.com/finance/money-guides/16-costly-car-noises-1.aspx
Stick around in the gears for a bit while accelerating. This may expose any problems that occur when the vehicle is at higher revs. This could potentially be allowed to let slide if its really not important. I, for example, tend to short shift when driving to college as my commute is 75 miles (round) and fuel economy is everything. However, there's a lot of joy to be had in driving quickly
Suspension - is everything smooth?
This is all I can think of in all honesty, however it definitely isn't a comprehensive list. If you're spending a lot, see about hiring a local mechanic to inspect the car for you; this may cost a few hundred pounds though.
None of the problems on this list should be dealbreakers. See how much the issue would cost to be fixed (if it needs to be) and then weigh that up with the price of the car, and what you could get another for from a competitor.
A lot of it is common sense too.
Good luck!
(edited 3 years ago)
Original post by roo02
Not sure why everybody's being so dismissive of you here, it's a good question you're asking
Exactly ^^
Also, check the mileage of the car. High mileage lowers the value as the life expectancy of the car is lower. But also you don’t want a car with a super low mileage either. If it’s 20 years old and has a mileage of 10,000 something’s up.
When you take the car out for a test drive, drive it in a multitude of speeds so you can test the gearbox. This was one mistake I made, I hate my gearbox.
Any scratches, worn insides etc. ask them to knockoff a hundred or 50.
(edited 3 years ago)
Original post by roo02
Not sure why everybody's being so dismissive of you here, it's a good question you're asking
Ok so first up you want to check around the exterior to see if the car's in good condition -- any scratches / bumps that look more than just the car being thrown in a hedge to let someone by should be inquired about.
Check around for rust.
Check the oil - just use the dipstick for this
Check all fluids if possible, brakes, coolant etc. This isn't possible on all cars (on mine it requires a lot of labour to access the tanks)
Turn on the lights, and check they all work, especially brake and fogs, as you never see those yourself.
Check the tyres, do they have enough tread, and are they inflated?
Moving on to the drive
Don't buy unless you can test drive.
You want to have as long of an MOT as possible. I usually go for 10 months minimum, or ask the dealer if they can get it checked and extended.
Make sure you can get a cold start. Otherwise come back later. Lots of issues can be revealed by starting a cold engine.
When you first start the car, does it make any noises? If there is a squeaking / screaming sound, it's likely just the engine's timing belt. Try to inspect this if possible - it could be (and is usually) just loose, so isn't much of an issue, however if it has any damage, try to get a quote from a mechanic as to how much it would cost, and then decide if you still want to buy; it usually doesn't cost much (do this after the drive). This article has more info: https://www.dumblittleman.com/how-do-i-stop-my-belt-from-squeaking-when-i-start-my-car/
Clutch; how high is the bite point? Will it need replacing soon? Does the car slip out of gear?
Check the controls: Windows working? Windscreen wipers, high beams? etc.
Fuel system okay? Check the mpg. Is it lower than it should be? Is anything leaking?
At some point in the test drive you want to hit 70 - this obviously isn't essential but high speeds can expose any problems with the car; try to get on a motorway / dual carriageway if possible. If you hear any unusual sounds try to find their source, and decide whether they need fixing. Here's another article: https://www.bankrate.com/finance/money-guides/16-costly-car-noises-1.aspx
Stick around in the gears for a bit while accelerating. This may expose any problems that occur when the vehicle is at higher revs. This could potentially be allowed to let slide if its really not important. I, for example, tend to short shift when driving to college as my commute is 75 miles (round) and fuel economy is everything. However, there's a lot of joy to be had in driving quickly
Suspension - is everything smooth?
This is all I can think of in all honesty, however it definitely isn't a comprehensive list. If you're spending a lot, see about hiring a local mechanic to inspect the car for you; this may cost a few hundred pounds though.
None of the problems on this list should be dealbreakers. See how much the issue would cost to be fixed (if it needs to be) and then weigh that up with the price of the car, and what you could get another for form a competitor.
A lot of it is common sense too.
Good luck!
Ok so first up you want to check around the exterior to see if the car's in good condition -- any scratches / bumps that look more than just the car being thrown in a hedge to let someone by should be inquired about.
Check around for rust.
Check the oil - just use the dipstick for this
Check all fluids if possible, brakes, coolant etc. This isn't possible on all cars (on mine it requires a lot of labour to access the tanks)
Turn on the lights, and check they all work, especially brake and fogs, as you never see those yourself.
Check the tyres, do they have enough tread, and are they inflated?
Moving on to the drive
Don't buy unless you can test drive.
You want to have as long of an MOT as possible. I usually go for 10 months minimum, or ask the dealer if they can get it checked and extended.
Make sure you can get a cold start. Otherwise come back later. Lots of issues can be revealed by starting a cold engine.
When you first start the car, does it make any noises? If there is a squeaking / screaming sound, it's likely just the engine's timing belt. Try to inspect this if possible - it could be (and is usually) just loose, so isn't much of an issue, however if it has any damage, try to get a quote from a mechanic as to how much it would cost, and then decide if you still want to buy; it usually doesn't cost much (do this after the drive). This article has more info: https://www.dumblittleman.com/how-do-i-stop-my-belt-from-squeaking-when-i-start-my-car/
Clutch; how high is the bite point? Will it need replacing soon? Does the car slip out of gear?
Check the controls: Windows working? Windscreen wipers, high beams? etc.
Fuel system okay? Check the mpg. Is it lower than it should be? Is anything leaking?
At some point in the test drive you want to hit 70 - this obviously isn't essential but high speeds can expose any problems with the car; try to get on a motorway / dual carriageway if possible. If you hear any unusual sounds try to find their source, and decide whether they need fixing. Here's another article: https://www.bankrate.com/finance/money-guides/16-costly-car-noises-1.aspx
Stick around in the gears for a bit while accelerating. This may expose any problems that occur when the vehicle is at higher revs. This could potentially be allowed to let slide if its really not important. I, for example, tend to short shift when driving to college as my commute is 75 miles (round) and fuel economy is everything. However, there's a lot of joy to be had in driving quickly
Suspension - is everything smooth?
This is all I can think of in all honesty, however it definitely isn't a comprehensive list. If you're spending a lot, see about hiring a local mechanic to inspect the car for you; this may cost a few hundred pounds though.
None of the problems on this list should be dealbreakers. See how much the issue would cost to be fixed (if it needs to be) and then weigh that up with the price of the car, and what you could get another for form a competitor.
A lot of it is common sense too.
Good luck!
Good all-round advice offered above.
I would like to add my 2p's worth... Do you want to buy privately or go through a dealer? There are advantages and disadvantages to both. In summary, the advantage of buying through a dealer is obviously the warranty (thoroughly check what's covered BTW) and the fact that you have rights if something goes wrong. Main disadvantage, is that you're dealing with a "middle-man", who is out to make as much money from the car as possible. On the other hand, you can often get much better cars for your money if you buy privately... but you've got much less to come back from if you get a bad car. I'll go into a bit more detail on each, but bear in mind this is only based on my own experience, and neither guide is, by any means, comprehensive:-
Buying from a dealer:- The details of the overall condition have already been covered in the above post, so I won't bother repeating what was said. Assuming you're happy with everything, you'll need to close the deal. As I said, a dealer is out to make money from the car, so expect to be dealing with a skilled negotiator, and I would suggest you work on your haggling skills. As a rule, they're not expecting you to pay the full asking price, but they've almost certainly got a good understanding of the cars value. It's worth noting that there may be more room for haggling if the car has been hanging around on the forecourt for some time. Also remember if you want a test drive, the showroom will probably have insurance, but they'll need to see your driving license. Furthermore, you'll have to book a test drive in advance as they may need to move other cars etc. out the way to get it ready for you (a day's notice is normally fine). I've managed to get about 1/2hr-1hr test drives, so use that to try out a variety of road-types and see how the car behaves in each of the.
Being a dealer, they'll be a lot better at hiding or disguising any faults with the car than your average Jo / Joanne will. However, if you spot any faults and / or concerns, then use these as your leverage to justify a lower price. They will probably reject your offer and then come back with another offer that's lower. You can then use other things like stating that you're also considering other cars elsewhere, so what else can they do to make you consider their deal than anyone else. When you make another offer at this stage, hold your arm out to offer to "shake-on-it". At that point the dealer may go and say the "Let me speak to my manager about this" ... He emerges about 5-10 minutes later, and then will either shave a few more quid off, or will throw in some other perk to "sell" the car to you (e.g. I've had offered a full tank of petrol, a new alarm, and new matts and seat covers). That's probably as good as you'll get so then it's up to you whether you accept the deal or walk.
Buying Privately:- When phoning up a private seller, always state "Hello, I'm phoning about the car..." Never say which car you're interested in as there are some dealers who try and sell cars privately to cheat you out of your rights. If it's a dealer in disguise, they'll then have to ask "Which car?".
When arranging a visit, it's sometimes worth secretly arriving a bit earlier, as you can sometimes catch someone trying to start a car (if, say, there were cold-start issues)... also make sure you see that person go into their property at least once to confirm they live at their address. Ask to see the log-book and check it matches the address that you are visiting, and check how long they've had the car for. I would suggests chatting to the seller for a bit, so you can make your own mind up about what sort of person they are; therefore how the car is likely to have been driven / looked after. It's at the discretion of the seller whether they are willing to let you drive it yourself and for how long... but it will be your responsibility to sort out insurance for the time you drive it (N.B. IF you have an older, experienced person with you, their own insurance may have "Third Party" cover to dive other vehicles... so they can drive on your behalf).
It'll cost you a bit extra, but I think it's well worth doing a HPI check on a car, once you're seriously considering it. This is a check to see if the car was recorded stolen, was ever in a serious accident, or if there's outstanding finance on it.
Negotiating the deal will follow a similar process to closing the deal with the dealer, but as stated previously there's potentially great savings you can make. How good a deal you can get will largely depend on who's the better negotiator. Having said that, please remember your manners / etiquette when discussing the deal. There's a good chance there's an emotional attachment to the car, so you can risk offending the person by saying the wrong things. For example, overly criticising the car or making a stupidly low offer is almost as bad as telling them that their mother takes it up the a**. So keep your offers sensible / realistic (e.g. 80-85% of the original asking price is fair IMHO), and don't be too harsh on the car if the condition is reflected in the initial asking price.
In either case, it's well-worth looking at the Service History. Most cars come with a stamp-book that documents when the car has been serviced. A car should have been serviced every year or 12,000 miles, so check the service book to see this is consistent. Also, other things like old maintenance / service receipts, old MOT / Tax disc (pre 2015 obvs) etc., are indication of a careful meticulous owner, and can easily justify a substantial increase over the standard book price.
Hope that helps & happy motoring
(edited 3 years ago)
Original post by Qer
what to look for if your buying a car (used). How to check engine these sort of things.....
If person dont have any experience with cars?
If person dont have any experience with cars?
Pay for a professional inspection. Get the CarFax (or similar), look at the MOT history, and try to talk to a previous owner.
Original post by RogerOxon
Pay for a professional inspection. Get the CarFax (or similar), look at the MOT history, and try to talk to a previous owner.
Ask the seller for all the receipts that they have for work done on the car too.
Check the VIN number (in all the locations that the car should have it) against the log book, not just the registration number.
Original post by roo02
Another thing I forgot — and I wouldn’t really recommend it — but my friend likes to get friends/himself to tail the owner of the car for a few days to see how they treat it (assuming it’s a private seller); he’s found a few people that treat their cars awfully (pushing it really hard, skidding, nearly crashing etc) and it’s made him pull out of deals that could have cost him lots of money down the line. Obviously this isn’t really necessary. He only does it because he’s 18, buying relatively expensive cars with big engines, so can’t afford to mess it up.
That's a bit weird like...
Original post by IWMTom
That's a bit weird like...
Agreed, I’d never do it haha
Original post by IWMTom
That's a bit weird like...
Yeah I raised an eyebrow at that as well.... would be interesting to explain if caught not to mention the overall questionable use of time. Anyway, surely if they rattle fk out the car you'd lose them almost immediately?
Original post by StriderHort
Yeah I raised an eyebrow at that as well.... would be interesting to explain if caught not to mention the overall questionable use of time. Anyway, surely if they rattle fk out the car you'd lose them almost immediately?
Just want to clarify that it isn't me that does this. It seems pretty pointless imo
The guy who does drives like a maniac, it would take a lot for him to lose them; I'm honestly surprised he's still alive.
Original post by Qer
thanks everyone for responses.
Hope it helps!
Do you have a particular car in mind?
Original post by roo02
Hope it helps!
Do you have a particular car in mind?
Do you have a particular car in mind?
not yet. I have my exams yet and currently we are in lockdown. So hopefully after when things get better I will start looking. But I have a range in my mind £1000 -£2000.
Original post by Qer
not yet. I have my exams yet and currently we are in lockdown. So hopefully after when things get better I will start looking. But I have a range in my mind £1000 -£2000.
Ayy good luck finding one! Feel free to message me if you need any help.
I think @IWMTom wrote a thread a while ago about cars and insurance? The threads should be stickied
(edited 3 years ago)
Make sure you do a cold start. If the engine is warm. Walk away. Do your general checks online, like mot history. Search up the engine you're planning to buy, does it have a timing belt and do they go every x amount of miles? Has it been replaced? My brother brought a car that's been parked for 2 years and used as a drug storage car, but after a good clean out and service, the car has been working great and we get it at maybe a 3rd of normal price (but there is some history left on that car, we reckon all the window been smashed).
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