Car problem: drove through a flooded road
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On a more serious note, would mixing engine oils that aren't designed for my engine be okay?
What would the long term effects be?
Is there anything else I should be concerned about?
What would the long term effects be?
Is there anything else I should be concerned about?
(edited 3 years ago)
Original post by Jang Gwangnam
On a more serious note, would mixing engine oils that aren't designed for my engine okay?
No, it's going to explode when a camera flash hits it. The protons in the oil create an inverse negative reaction which triggers dark matter to form. The flash from a camera is enough to turn the matter light and cause a black hole to engulf you.
Original post by PTMalewski
Unless you stormed the water at high speed, no harm should have come to the car.
Earlier:
Original post by Jang Gwangnam
I think the main reason for so much water being sucked into the engine is due to me being at 20mph (as it was a road with lots of speed bumps) before I dived in, the engine quickly loss revs and I had to shift it down to 1st gear from 3rd, I heard knocking while I was in 2nd and about 1/2 way through the puddle.
It'll be interesting to hear if he can break it further with his mechanical skills ..
Original post by RogerOxon
Earlier:
It'll be interesting to hear if he can break it further with his mechanical skills ..
It'll be interesting to hear if he can break it further with his mechanical skills ..
Perhaps the OP and @Cleverboy1991 can team up!
Original post by IWMTom
No, it's going to explode when a camera flash hits it. The protons in the oil create an inverse negative reaction which triggers dark matter to form. The flash from a camera is enough to turn the matter light and cause a black hole to engulf you.
Sounds like the plot from Cars 2
UPDATE 2: Managed to get all the parts and resolved the old problem, and a new problem introduced itself... my rear drum brakes are sticking. To be more specific it's the horseshoe related to the handbrake cable.
As you all may know, the power of a engine can overcome the measly power of brakes. So because my brakes were stuck I just revved the car high *crack* and wahoooooo we got movement.
When I hit the brakes to check their condition, I could hear rattling in one of the rear brake drums because the front brakes were just screeching like a b*tch.
*sighs exasperatedly* bloody cars...
As you all may know, the power of a engine can overcome the measly power of brakes. So because my brakes were stuck I just revved the car high *crack* and wahoooooo we got movement.
When I hit the brakes to check their condition, I could hear rattling in one of the rear brake drums because the front brakes were just screeching like a b*tch.
*sighs exasperatedly* bloody cars...
Original post by IWMTom
@Jang Gwangnam - it's worth removing all the rubber seals across your fuel system too - really helps the system aerate and remove all the moisture.
The fuel system is hermetic and works under fuel pressure. Where do you want to get moisture away from?
Original post by Jang Gwangnam
On another note, is it okay if I mixed 3 different engine oils together? I had 0.7 quarts of Shell Helix 5W-40, with 0.9 quarts of Triple QX 5W-30 and 1.4 quarts of another variation of Triple QX 5W-30 it's used for my dad's diesel car (the label on the bottle said it could be used for petrol cars as well).
Just asking incase my little mixmatch created a unsavoury chemical reaction worsening the engine's condition.
On another note, is it okay if I mixed 3 different engine oils together? I had 0.7 quarts of Shell Helix 5W-40, with 0.9 quarts of Triple QX 5W-30 and 1.4 quarts of another variation of Triple QX 5W-30 it's used for my dad's diesel car (the label on the bottle said it could be used for petrol cars as well).
Just asking incase my little mixmatch created a unsavoury chemical reaction worsening the engine's condition.
More important is the ACEA parameter. Older gen engine oils have something, I don't remember the name, that helps to reduce friction, what some newer engines can't have, so all three norms, SAE, API, and ACEA should be approved by the engine maker.
Original post by Jang Gwangnam
UPDATE 2: Managed to get all the parts and resolved the old problem, and a new problem introduced itself... my rear drum brakes are sticking. To be more specific it's the horseshoe related to the handbrake cable.
As you all may know, the power of a engine can overcome the measly power of brakes. So because my brakes were stuck I just revved the car high *crack* and wahoooooo we got movement.
When I hit the brakes to check their condition, I could hear rattling in one of the rear brake drums because the front brakes were just screeching like a b*tch.
*sighs exasperatedly* bloody cars...
As you all may know, the power of a engine can overcome the measly power of brakes. So because my brakes were stuck I just revved the car high *crack* and wahoooooo we got movement.
When I hit the brakes to check their condition, I could hear rattling in one of the rear brake drums because the front brakes were just screeching like a b*tch.
*sighs exasperatedly* bloody cars...
Brakes should be dismantled to pieces around every 15 thousand miles, cleaned, the brake cylinders lubricated and then assembled again. If you don't do it, there must be problems sooner or later.
Also, screeching front brakes might mean the pads are already finished.
(edited 3 years ago)
Original post by PTMalewski
The fuel system is hermetic and works under fuel pressure. Where do you want to get moisture away from?
It was a joke, PT.
Original post by PTMalewski
The fuel system is hermetic and works under fuel pressure. Where do you want to get moisture away from?
More important is the ACEA parameter. Older gen engine oils have something, I don't remember the name, that helps to reduce friction, what some newer engines can't have, so all three norms, SAE, API, and ACEA should be approved by the engine maker.
Brakes should be dismantled to pieces around every 15 thousand miles, cleaned, the brake cylinders lubricated and then assembled again. If you don't do it, there must be problems sooner or later.
Also, screeching front brakes might mean the pads are already finished.
More important is the ACEA parameter. Older gen engine oils have something, I don't remember the name, that helps to reduce friction, what some newer engines can't have, so all three norms, SAE, API, and ACEA should be approved by the engine maker.
Brakes should be dismantled to pieces around every 15 thousand miles, cleaned, the brake cylinders lubricated and then assembled again. If you don't do it, there must be problems sooner or later.
Also, screeching front brakes might mean the pads are already finished.
With regards to your reply to my update 2. The front brakes were recently replaced and the rears were working perfectly fine before the flooded road incident.
I removed the drums and gave the interior a good brushing with a metal brush, I would've dismantled it but I didn't want to do anything excessive as the brakes were just sticking. I called up my dad and he gave the rears a quick look and said that the rear driver side wheel cylinder is shot.
So yh I've found my problem, I need to replace a wheel cylinder.
Original post by Cleverboy1991
xxxx
Perhaps if you took a moment to look at the other threads of the OP - particularly the ones where they have a flagrant disregard for traffic lights - you may agree.
Original post by Cleverboy1991
xxxx
Lol no the OP keeps running red lights!
Allow me fam, it's just a red light. Not like I knocked your mum (or anyone for that matter) out cold and did a runner.
Anyway, I got deported up North to help my uncle with his takeaway. So I had to leave the car issue on standby. On that note, I'll update the thread once I manage to replace the wheel cylinder.
Anyway, I got deported up North to help my uncle with his takeaway. So I had to leave the car issue on standby. On that note, I'll update the thread once I manage to replace the wheel cylinder.
Original post by Jang Gwangnam
Allow me fam, it's just a red light. Not like I knocked your mum (or anyone for that matter) out cold and did a runner.
Anyway, I got deported up North to help my uncle with his takeaway. So I had to leave the car issue on standby. On that note, I'll update the thread once I manage to replace the wheel cylinder.
Anyway, I got deported up North to help my uncle with his takeaway. So I had to leave the car issue on standby. On that note, I'll update the thread once I manage to replace the wheel cylinder.
With any luck you'll be deported from the country..
Original post by Jang Gwangnam
Allow me fam, it's just a red light. Not like I knocked your mum (or anyone for that matter) out cold and did a runner.
Anyway, I got deported up North to help my uncle with his takeaway. So I had to leave the car issue on standby. On that note, I'll update the thread once I manage to replace the wheel cylinder.
Anyway, I got deported up North to help my uncle with his takeaway. So I had to leave the car issue on standby. On that note, I'll update the thread once I manage to replace the wheel cylinder.
Yes let's allow you to break the law... I hope your license gets suspended ASAP.
Original post by 1st superstar
Yes let's allow you to break the law... I hope your license gets suspended ASAP.
Unless I'm caught, I'll always be in denial of having committed such atrocities 😉
Original post by Jang Gwangnam
Unless I'm caught, I'll always be in denial of having committed such atrocities 😉
🤦*♀️
Original post by Ben 101601
He went through a red light? Who gives a ****. Stop being so gay. Cheers.
The OP does it REPEATEDLY that's the problem and it's against the the law also don't use the word gay as an insult being gay is not a choice.
(edited 3 years ago)
Since it's been a month I guess I may as well update everyone.
I replaced the driver side wheel cylinder and tried to bleed the brakes and then the offside cylinder started squirting like a girl that's taken viagra. Didn't have much of a choice besides changing that one as well.
The whole wheel cylinder removal process was a pain in the ass, when bolts/screws rust themselves onto something, they stick on real good. I had to cut off the wheel cylinder from the brake pipe and then very awkwardly straighted (because I ran out of length for the replacement fitting) said brake pipe. Also unsuccessfully flared the pipe (flare cracked) with the fitting on and then screwed everything back on real tight. The brake bleed was the biggest issue because the bleeding kit I bought was shite, so it took forever to do just the rear 2 brakes.
Right after bleeding the brakes, I took the car for a test drive and noticed:
A) Handbrake is tighter, 1 click holds the car on a steep slope easily (in the past I only got that effect after 4 clicks)
B) Very weak braking power in the rears
Issue B was the biggest problem, so I told my old man and he said give the brakes roughly 500miles to set it. Otherwise they're toast because they had brake fluid on them.
Obviously I'm a food delivery driver, so I covered the 500 miles quickly and can say the brakes slowly but surely have set in. Only problem is that they still aren't as efficient as they used to be, so there's a high chance I got brake fluid on them and therefore in the future I need to replace them.
With all things said and done, the engine itself definitely took a hit from the flooded road and was left with a couple bruises. Acceleration isn't as fast as it used to be and sometimes I can hear weird noises from it, so as a safety precaution I got break down cover.
I replaced the driver side wheel cylinder and tried to bleed the brakes and then the offside cylinder started squirting like a girl that's taken viagra. Didn't have much of a choice besides changing that one as well.
The whole wheel cylinder removal process was a pain in the ass, when bolts/screws rust themselves onto something, they stick on real good. I had to cut off the wheel cylinder from the brake pipe and then very awkwardly straighted (because I ran out of length for the replacement fitting) said brake pipe. Also unsuccessfully flared the pipe (flare cracked) with the fitting on and then screwed everything back on real tight. The brake bleed was the biggest issue because the bleeding kit I bought was shite, so it took forever to do just the rear 2 brakes.
Right after bleeding the brakes, I took the car for a test drive and noticed:
A) Handbrake is tighter, 1 click holds the car on a steep slope easily (in the past I only got that effect after 4 clicks)
B) Very weak braking power in the rears
Issue B was the biggest problem, so I told my old man and he said give the brakes roughly 500miles to set it. Otherwise they're toast because they had brake fluid on them.
Obviously I'm a food delivery driver, so I covered the 500 miles quickly and can say the brakes slowly but surely have set in. Only problem is that they still aren't as efficient as they used to be, so there's a high chance I got brake fluid on them and therefore in the future I need to replace them.
With all things said and done, the engine itself definitely took a hit from the flooded road and was left with a couple bruises. Acceleration isn't as fast as it used to be and sometimes I can hear weird noises from it, so as a safety precaution I got break down cover.
Original post by 1st superstar
The OP does it REPEATEDLY that's the problem and it's against the the law also don't use the word gay as an insult being gay is not a choice.
Lol that reminds me, I accidentally ran a red light in Leeds and the device on top of the traffic light looked dodge asf (it could either be a traffic sensor or a red light camera (although I didn't see any red light camera unit nearby)) . I think I'll actually get a ticket this time 😂
Original post by Jang Gwangnam
Lol that reminds me, I accidentally ran a red light in Leeds and the device on top of the traffic light looked dodge asf (it could either be a traffic sensor or a red light camera (although I didn't see any red light camera unit nearby)) . I think I'll actually get a ticket this time 😂
Good, hopefully your license is revoked.
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