Snapped off a bolt

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username2301217
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#1
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Was undoing a bolt from the engine, not an important bolt but I would like to fix it and make it look original. The top half of the bolt came off but the lower half of the the bolt is still stuck inside. How do I get it out? People say easy out kits off Amazon works but I'm not sure has anyone used these before?
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FTheOpps
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I did something similar once, I ****ed up the thread while screwing something in - I had to replace the wood. I'm not sure how you'd do it on metal take it to a garage and get some advice from professionals.
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Dee-Emma
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(Original post by Nadim Chowdhury)
Was undoing a bolt from the engine, not an important bolt but I would like to fix it and make it look original. The top half of the bolt came off but the lower half of the the bolt is still stuck inside. How do I get it out? People say easy out kits off Amazon works but I'm not sure has anyone used these before?
Seriously a skilled task. Easy-outs rarely work, and if they break it can make the subsequent repair harder. There's various methods including drilling and welding, but none are beginners tasks.
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IWMTom
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(Original post by Nadim Chowdhury)
Was undoing a bolt from the engine, not an important bolt but I would like to fix it and make it look original. The top half of the bolt came off but the lower half of the the bolt is still stuck inside. How do I get it out? People say easy out kits off Amazon works but I'm not sure has anyone used these before?
I'd love to know why you were removing a bolt from your engine.
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username2301217
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(Original post by IWMTom)
I'd love to know why you were removing a bolt from your engine.
It's the bolt that holds the ignition coil down, engine still starts but I'll get it looked at tomorrow
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username2301217
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(Original post by Dee-Emma)
Seriously a skilled task. Easy-outs rarely work, and if they break it can make the subsequent repair harder. There's various methods including drilling and welding, but none are beginners tasks.
I need to learn how to sort it out, I always try and work on my own car
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username2301217
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(Original post by FTheOpps)
I did something similar once, I ****ed up the thread while screwing something in - I had to replace the wood. I'm not sure how you'd do it on metal take it to a garage and get some advice from professionals.
Were you doing it by hand? I feel as though the machine powered impact wrenches people sometimes use mess it up, like the guy who last serviced my dad's yaris 🙄
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username5624448
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If I were you, I'd suggest seeking professional help, rather than attempting to fix it by yourself.
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FTheOpps
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(Original post by Nadim Chowdhury)
Were you doing it by hand? I feel as though the machine powered impact wrenches people sometimes use mess it up, like the guy who last serviced my dad's yaris 🙄
Naa I was using a drill :lol:
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username2301217
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(Original post by username5624448)
If I were you, I'd suggest seeking professional help, rather than attempting to fix it by yourself.
I'm taking it to the mechanics tomorrow if he's free, and more importantly see how he does it.
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username2301217
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(Original post by FTheOpps)
Naa I was using a drill :lol:
😂😂😂 I always try and do things by hand unless it's something like taking off the wheel bolts
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FTheOpps
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(Original post by Nadim Chowdhury)
😂😂😂 I always try and do things by hand unless it's something like taking off the wheel bolts
Im a lazy guy bro :rofl:
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Nuffles
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(Original post by Nadim Chowdhury)
Were you doing it by hand? I feel as though the machine powered impact wrenches people sometimes use mess it up, like the guy who last serviced my dad's yaris 🙄
Impact wrenches are often actually better to use on seized bolts. The hitting action of the anvil can free things up and spin them off without breaking when a long breaker bar would just snap it off because there's no give. Knowing when to use either is the skill.

How much of the bolt is left in the engine?? Is there any sticking up above the surface of the valve cover? Level with it? Recessed inside? The answer will tell you what your options are. The easiest if flush/recessed is probably drilling it out and chasing the threads with a tap. If you mess it up bad you can drill it out to the next size up, tap a new thread, and whack a Helicoil in there.

If there's anything at all sticking out then getting someone to weld a nut on what's left is your best option. Then you can spin it out.

Im impressed you managed to snap it off. Baby 10mm?
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username2301217
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(Original post by Nuffles)
Impact wrenches are often actually better to use on seized bolts. The hitting action of the anvil can free things up and spin them off without breaking when a long breaker bar would just snap it off because there's no give. Knowing when to use either is the skill.

How much of the bolt is left in the engine?? Is there any sticking up above the surface of the valve cover? Level with it? Recessed inside? The answer will tell you what your options are. The easiest if flush/recessed is probably drilling it out and chasing the threads with a tap. If you mess it up bad you can drill it out to the next size up, tap a new thread, and whack a Helicoil in there.

If there's anything at all sticking out then getting someone to weld a nut on what's left is your best option. Then you can spin it out.

Im impressed you managed to snap it off. Baby 10mm?
I was pretty shocked as well, just turned the hand wrench, felt a bit of resistance, then no resistance and out came the bolt with half the thread. The other half is still stuck in there. Might just get someone to weld a bracket or something on top of the engine, all it needs is something to keep the ignition coil down.

But I don't really understand your first point? Are you saying it's better to loosen an overtightened bolt with a impact wrench (Those machine things the mechanics use?)
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Nuffles
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(Original post by username2301217)
I was pretty shocked as well, just turned the hand wrench, felt a bit of resistance, then no resistance and out came the bolt with half the thread. The other half is still stuck in there. Might just get someone to weld a bracket or something on top of the engine, all it needs is something to keep the ignition coil down.

But I don't really understand your first point? Are you saying it's better to loosen an overtightened bolt with a impact wrench (Those machine things the mechanics use?)
Yeah, in some circumstances, an impact wrench:
Image
Is better for undoing seized bolts. It shocks them loose and breaks the rust bond where a breaker bar just applies solid torque until the bolt gives out first. Like I said, sometimes you need one, sometimes the other.
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IWMTom
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(Original post by Nuffles)
Yeah, in some circumstances, an impact wrench:
Image
Is better for undoing seized bolts. It shocks them loose and breaks the rust bond where a breaker bar just applies solid torque until the bolt gives out first. Like I said, sometimes you need one, sometimes the other.
He deleted his account.
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Nuffles
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(Original post by IWMTom)
He deleted his account.
That's a shame, he's been entertaining for the last few months.
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StriderHort
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(Original post by Nuffles)
That's a shame, he's been entertaining for the last few months.
Meh, I kinda got my fill of Shameless back when it was on Channel 4
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Talon
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#19
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#19
(Original post by username2301217)
😂😂😂 I always try and do things by hand unless it's something like taking off the wheel bolts
Taking off wheel bolts shouldn't require a machine for the majority of vehicles.
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Nuffles
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(Original post by Talon)
Taking off wheel bolts shouldn't require a machine for the majority of vehicles.
It doesn't require it but it makes it a hell of a lot easier and quicker.. My impact driver doesn't have quite enough balls to do my wheel bolts so I go around all of them with the breaker bar first and then spin them off with the impact driver. I'm saving up for a big-boy impact driver to do them in one hit though. Will also make other suspension and brake bolts much easier to work with.
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