Ford Ka failed MOT due to rust- repair or scrap
I’ve got a ford Ka 2004 that just failed it’s MOT due to rust needing it completely replaced costing around £600. Other than the rust the car is completely fine with only 30k on milage. Any advice on whether it’s worth fixing it or just getting a new car? I’ve only been driving 6 months and paid £1000 for the car but with it being 20 years old not too sure if it’s worth the fix.
Repair immediately (major defects):
Nearside Front Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength floor (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Front Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength floor (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Rear Outer Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength sill (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Rear Lower Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength inner arch (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Seat belt anchorage prescribed area strength or continuity significantly reduced outer sill (7.1.1 (a) (i))
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Brake master cylinder/servo mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive bulkhead (1.1.21 (e) (i))
Repair immediately (major defects):
Nearside Front Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength floor (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Front Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength floor (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Rear Outer Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength sill (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Rear Lower Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength inner arch (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Seat belt anchorage prescribed area strength or continuity significantly reduced outer sill (7.1.1 (a) (i))
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Brake master cylinder/servo mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive bulkhead (1.1.21 (e) (i))
(edited 2 years ago)
Reply 1
You need to a be a lot more specific about the rust, what is rusted and how badly? Could there be other areas of rust the MOT missed? (they don't check everything as they don't take wheels off etc or pull covers away)
It might help to go to the website, look up your MOT and copy and paste the fail issues.
It might help to go to the website, look up your MOT and copy and paste the fail issues.
Original post by Basilboots
I’ve got a ford Ka 2004 that just failed it’s MOT due to rust needing it completely replaced costing around £600. Other than the rust the car is completely fine with only 30k on milage. Any advice on whether it’s worth fixing it or just getting a new car? I’ve only been driving 6 months and paid £1000 for the car but with it being 20 years old not too sure if it’s worth the fix
How bad is the rust?
The original KA's have been well known for rusting badly.
Personally id scrap it.
Reply 3
Original post by StriderHort
You need to a be a lot more specific about the rust, what is rusted and how badly? Could there be other areas of rust the MOT missed? (they don't check everything as they don't take wheels off etc or pull covers away)
It might help to go to the website, look up your MOT and copy and paste the fail issues.
It might help to go to the website, look up your MOT and copy and paste the fail issues.
Hi, thank you for your reply. Here is the issues as stated on MOT.
Repair immediately (major defects):
Nearside Front Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength floor (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Front Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength floor (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Rear Outer Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength sill (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Rear Lower Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength inner arch (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Seat belt anchorage prescribed area strength or continuity significantly reduced outer sill (7.1.1 (a) (i))
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Brake master cylinder/servo mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive bulkhead (1.1.21 (e) (i))
Reply 4
Original post by Emma:-)
How bad is the rust?
The original KA's have been well known for rusting badly.
Personally id scrap it.
The original KA's have been well known for rusting badly.
Personally id scrap it.
Thanks for your reply, I believe the rust is pretty bad. Here is the report from MOT:
Hi, thank you for your reply. Here is the issues as stated on MOT.
Repair immediately (major defects):
Nearside Front Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength floor (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Front Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength floor (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Rear Outer Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength sill (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Rear Lower Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength inner arch (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Seat belt anchorage prescribed area strength or continuity significantly reduced outer sill (7.1.1 (a) (i))
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Brake master cylinder/servo mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive bulkhead (1.1.21 (e) (i))
Reply 5
Ouch, yeah I'd be leaning towards scrapping. I'd be v surprised if subframe/bulkhead rust wasn't an incoming issue with all those suspension components, and almost anything involving sill work is expensive.
For £600, I'd say it really comes down to can you afford another car? or maybe need to pay to keep this one on the road for even a year? As @Emma:-) said, they are a bit notorious for rusting.
For £600, I'd say it really comes down to can you afford another car? or maybe need to pay to keep this one on the road for even a year? As @Emma:-) said, they are a bit notorious for rusting.
Basilboots - I'm really sorry you have paid out for your 'runner' only to find it is now on its knees.
Rust is your biggest enemy with an older car, and some Fords were notoriously bad for it.
My view would be scrap it
If you get a good body work car you can replace an engine at £300 plus fitting. But with a rust bucket car, you repair one section and another pops up, and another, and another. The welding and strengthening needed here would be cost prohibitive with potentially more rust work needed very soon.
I hope you find another one soon
Rust is your biggest enemy with an older car, and some Fords were notoriously bad for it.
My view would be scrap it
If you get a good body work car you can replace an engine at £300 plus fitting. But with a rust bucket car, you repair one section and another pops up, and another, and another. The welding and strengthening needed here would be cost prohibitive with potentially more rust work needed very soon.
I hope you find another one soon
Original post by Basilboots
I’ve got a ford Ka 2004 that just failed it’s MOT due to rust needing it completely replaced costing around £600. Other than the rust the car is completely fine with only 30k on milage.
At 18 years old with only 30k miles on the clock, I guarantee you at least one of these are true:
The car has been clocked or has rolled over (most likely the former)
The car, more specifically the engine, is not in nearly as good condition as you think it is.
Old cars with extremely low mileage aren't absolute steals people seem to think they are. Such cars should be avoided because they'll have spent most of their life running cold and will have spent a significant amount of time sat doing nothing. Prime conditions to develop corrosion within the engine itself. If you tore the engine down, you'd probably find the car isn't doing nearly as well as you first thought.
Any advice on whether it’s worth fixing it or just getting a new car? I’ve only been driving 6 months and paid £1000 for the car but with it being 20 years old not too sure if it’s worth the fix.
We're sat in a rather peculiar time... Ordinarily, it wouldn't be worth it. The problem is that the market is all whacked out and car prices are inflated.
I'd say look around and see what's on the market, if there's nothing that fits your needs/budget, cough up £600, run it for 6 months or so, get rid and hope the market has improved by that point.
The problem is that your failures are going to require welding to fix... My car got (another) advisory for corrosion just the other week. The mechanic said that it'll probably need welding next year and once that starts, it tends to be a yearly occurance.
You don't just have to think of what you're spending now, but what it's going to cost if you keep it for the year. If you get it fixed now and decide to keep it for the year, you're only going to be shelling out again next year.
Ultimately, the car has to go. The question is are you and the market in positions to do it now, or are you willing to see what it's like 6 months down the line?
(edited 2 years ago)
Reply 8
it's an 18 year old car that is rusted to feck
time for it to be recycled
time for it to be recycled
Reply 9
Original post by Hanif autos
Contact me on 07405333828 if you sell it or want to get it repair
Mate this is from a year ago, there has be better ways to find cheap ford Kas than this 😅
Original post by Basilboots
I’ve got a ford Ka 2004 that just failed it’s MOT due to rust needing it completely replaced costing around £600. Other than the rust the car is completely fine with only 30k on milage. Any advice on whether it’s worth fixing it or just getting a new car? I’ve only been driving 6 months and paid £1000 for the car but with it being 20 years old not too sure if it’s worth the fix.
Repair immediately (major defects):
Nearside Front Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength floor (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Front Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength floor (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Rear Outer Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength sill (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Rear Lower Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength inner arch (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Seat belt anchorage prescribed area strength or continuity significantly reduced outer sill (7.1.1 (a) (i))
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Brake master cylinder/servo mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive bulkhead (1.1.21 (e) (i))
Repair immediately (major defects):
Nearside Front Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength floor (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Front Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength floor (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Rear Outer Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength sill (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Rear Lower Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength inner arch (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Seat belt anchorage prescribed area strength or continuity significantly reduced outer sill (7.1.1 (a) (i))
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Brake master cylinder/servo mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive bulkhead (1.1.21 (e) (i))
Hi there, I am in that exact same position now with my Ford ka!! What did you do in the end?
I would do some home work on your next car and scrap the one you have for spares & repair. If there are any new components on the one you have it can be worth swapping them to a same aged model. Personally I would avoid old Fords - Toyotas were just as bad. Early Mk1 Mk2 Skodas were good. Ditto VW Golf If you know nothing about cars take someone with you to view it who does. Use the Govt 'Check MOT history' sites for major repairs - the damage and works for welding, rust repair can be so overwhelming it is just not worth going down that route. Ford's were notoriously bad for rust (unless it's lived at the seaside when it will be even worse) If you have someone with a fault scanner they can check the major fault icons against mileage as a secondary check for genuine miles.
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