The Student Room Group

Car no starting After removing black box

Hi All,

I drive a ford mondeo, while changing my car battery the Halfords mechanic removed a black box which was attached to previous battery, this black box doesn’t belong to me guess previous owner… post this the car worked fine for like 10 mins after that when I try to start its cranking but not starting.

The current mechanic suspect it could be because of removing the black box the car isn’t starting… which I feel is not right I don’t see anything mentioned about it on internet etc., so wanted to check can this be a reason?

Reply 1

Original post
by Sasi01
Hi All,
I drive a ford mondeo, while changing my car battery the Halfords mechanic removed a black box which was attached to previous battery, this black box doesn’t belong to me guess previous owner… post this the car worked fine for like 10 mins after that when I try to start its cranking but not starting.
The current mechanic suspect it could be because of removing the black box the car isn’t starting… which I feel is not right I don’t see anything mentioned about it on internet etc., so wanted to check can this be a reason?
Sometimes the immobiliser on a Mondeo can malfunction after the battery is changed, causing the key to lose its sync. If your Mondeo started up and ran for about ten minutes before dying, it's probably a fuel issue.
It could be a problem with the fuel pump or a blown fuel pump fuse.
If it was the immobiliser, the car wouldn't start at all.
Ciao,
Sandro

Reply 2

Original post
by Nitrotoluene
Sometimes the immobiliser on a Mondeo can malfunction after the battery is changed, causing the key to lose its sync. If your Mondeo started up and ran for about ten minutes before dying, it's probably a fuel issue.
It could be a problem with the fuel pump or a blown fuel pump fuse.
If it was the immobiliser, the car wouldn't start at all.
Ciao,
Sandro
Thanks for the response really helpful… by any chance do u know where I can find the fuel pump fuse please…

Reply 3

Original post
by Sasi01
Thanks for the response really helpful… by any chance do u know where I can find the fuel pump fuse please…
I have owned both the Mk3 and the Mk4.
Ford Mondeo fuel pump fuse:

Mk3 (2000–2007): Fuse No. 22 is located in the passenger-side fuse box, which is under the glove compartment. Also check fuse No. 17 under the bonnet, as this powers fuse No. 22.

Mk4 (2007–2014): Fuse No. 22 (20 Ampere) in the passenger side fuse box under the glove compartment. I don't know if you also need to check fuse No 17. I seem to remember that fuse No. 17 wasn't under the bonnet for this model.

Ciao,
Sandro

Reply 4

Thanks for the response.

Actually the mechanic used a scanner and found key program issue, and he reprogrammed post that car worked for again like 30 to 35 mins. I turned off and on like atleast 6 or 7 times. Again parked for 20 mins and came and tried starting again not starting now.

Any idea please, this is a big pain, again I guess, I need to call recovery van take to garage etc., too much hassle… can something be done ourself any idea any similar issue… kindly help…

Reply 5

I left the car for 30 mins and car started again, I couldn’t understand what could be the issue here… any suggestions guys

Reply 6

Again not starting, it’s so frustrating…

Reply 7

Original post
by Sasi01
Again not starting, it’s so frustrating…
This start-stop problem could imply:
-Component overheating, possibly caused by:
-The key CHIP overheating and failing,
-The immobilizer antenna looking out for its own survival by stopping,
-The relay/module in BCM (Body Control Module) is overheating.
This start-stop problem could imply:
- Component overheating, possibly caused by:
- The key CHIP overheating and failing,
- The immobiliser antenna looking out for its own survival by stopping,
- The relay/module in the BCM (Body Control Module) is overheating.
A possible solution would be to wait for 20-30 minutes to resolve the problem.
- Cool down the car, and
- Do not expose your car keys to heat.
To test:
-Different key test, by means of the spare one; if it unlocks successfully, it would be the primary key causing the problem; otherwise, it would be the reader antenna/BCM (Body Control Module).
Ciao,
Sandro

Reply 8

Thanks Sandro, you where right post cool down the car started again…

I don’t have a spare key, but the key never felt hot actually… any other alternative to check this please… is there any DIY to do the key by ourself or any other means to check…

Also, is it the starter relay I need to check for over heating…

Again same issue happened post cool down started drove for 20 to 30 mins… stopped didn’t start again… I tried swapping starter and pcm relay didn’t work…

Left to cool down for two hours tried again started fine…
(edited 2 months ago)

Reply 9

Original post
by Sasi01
Thanks Sandro, you where right post cool down the car started again…
I don’t have a spare key, but the key never felt hot actually… any other alternative to check this please… is there any DIY to do the key by ourself or any other means to check…
Also, is it the starter relay I need to check for over heating…
Hey, good news - if your key isn't getting hot, you're probably in the clear. Usually when they go bad, you'll feel them warming up or notice the signal getting spotty.
Here's what I'd try:

1.

Battery: Grab a new battery first. They only cost a few pounds and, to be honest, they solve the problem about 90% of the time. Even if your key still kinda works, a dying battery can cause all sorts of weird issues.

2.

Look Inside: Pop it open and take a peek. You're looking for anything funky - green crusty stuff on the contacts (wipe it off with some rubbing alcohol), cracks in the board, or any signs water got in there.

3.

Distance Test: Try unlocking from different spots. Start close, then walk further back. If it used to work from across the parking lot but now only works up close, that's your key acting up. But if it won't work even when you're standing right at the door? That's probably the car's receiver.

4.

Metal Check: Try using it away from your keys, phone, or anything metal. Sometimes that stuff messes with the signal.

5.

Button Test: Put your key in and turn it, but don't start the car. Try all the buttons. If none of them do anything, the key's probably the issue. If some buttons work, it could be a car problem.

If everything checks out with the key after all this, then yeah, you're probably looking at the antenna or engine control unit (ECU) in the car itself. That's when you'd need to take it to someone who can hook it up and figure out what's going on.

Unfortunately, I have exhausted all my resources and knowledge on this matter.
Please kindly keep me updated on any developments.

Ciao,
Sandro

Reply 10

Thanks Sandro, you where right post cooldown the car started again… I don’t have a spare key, but the keynever felt hot actually… any otheralternative to check this please… is thereany DIY to do the key by ourself or anyother means to check…Also, is it the starter relay I need to checkfor over heating…Again same issue happened post cooldown started drove for 20 to 30 mins…stopped didn’t start again… I triedswapping starter and pcm relay didn’twork… Left to cool down for two hours tried againstarted fine…

Reply 11

It's simple step by step logical problem solving to sort this out.

Diagnostic tablets are great tools to have for modern cars. It's up to you if you invest in one.

When the car has failed to start, has it always cranked over? Or has it been dead or just clicking noise when you've tried to start it?

If it always cranks over, and sounds like it's cranking fine - ie not laboured and slow, your car battery and starter motor are fine.
If it doesn't crank properly it's probably a starter motor / starter motor solenoid issue - due to the intermittent nature.

Once you've got the engine cranking over you then need 3 things for it to start (for a petrol. 2 for a diesel).
A spark (for petrol)
Fuel into the engine
Air into and out of the engine. It's very rare that there's a fault with the airflow that stops the car starting.

There's step by step ways to diagnose for a spark and fuel.

Quick Reply

How The Student Room is moderated

To keep The Student Room safe for everyone, we moderate posts that are added to the site.