Cyclists Society

Not bad. Just searched it, unless I'm getting this wrong you can get it quite cheap. I was expecting more. Found it for £35. I think I own last year's Garmin sharp jersey.

Sweet, Im gonna look to see of I can get it cheap. Gotta try and match the cannondale bike lol.

Gonna buy shoes with cleats eventually as I'm still getting used to the very light steering and the new handlebar position compared with holding a normal road bike.

Was out on a bike ride early in the morning and the rear brake (the two brake pads at the rear were not even in spacing so I had to stop on the way to even them out a little. I'll take a picture later on

I found it on tredz.

First outting on new bike and first time on a bike in, um, 14 years. Not quite as bad as I thought!

For those who use HR monitors, have any of you ever done a lactate threshold test (such as this one: https://www.britishcycling.org.uk/zuvvi/media/bc_files/sportivetrainingplans/THRESHOLD_TEST.pdf) to find your lactate threshold heart rate and corresponding zones?

I think my Strava zones are wrong, so I'm thinking of doing a test next week. Hopefully by then I can find a flat route/loop with no interruptions (sharp corners, traffic lights, etc.) for a constant 30 min effort.

For those who use HR monitors, have any of you ever done a lactate threshold test (such as this one: https://www.britishcycling.org.uk/zuvvi/media/bc_files/sportivetrainingplans/THRESHOLD_TEST.pdf) to find your lactate threshold heart rate and corresponding zones?

I think my Strava zones are wrong, so I'm thinking of doing a test next week. Hopefully by then I can find a flat route/loop with no interruptions (sharp corners, traffic lights, etc.) for a constant 30 min effort.

going by reviews of it, it seems a small fit, so looks like I will have to for two sizes up to be sure

When I buy the sensors, I really wanna do this test!

I've haven't done the test per se, but just based on the HR I know I can sustain on the trainer and my average on the road my strava zones look about right. There's a 5-7 beat difference at the lower end depending on my threshold estimate (161-170bpm) but nothing significant.

How far out are the strava zones compared to the BC ones for you? It might depend how old you are as well

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After a bit of bike advice here. I have a touring bike (Dawes Vantage) which I like. However, I currently have it on some fairly thin tyres (can't remember what they are but think slightly wider than road bike tyres). I am thinking of going a bit more offroad to do some of the south downs way but don't think my current tyres are up for it. I don't have a mountain bike and I don't really want to buy one to be honest so I was wondering whether it would be feasible to buy a new set of wheels to put off-road tyres on (rather than faff with changing tyres on my current wheels. Are there going to be any disadvantages or things I'm going to need to think about more if I did that? I honestly don't know a lot about it so I'm really just trying to get a feeling of if it's even possible at the moment!

How did it go? And what's the bike?

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Aside from a painful backside, (running club was not the best idea this evening...) it went quite well. I have a Tern C7. And yourself?

British Cycling Zones based off of a threshold HR of 175bpm:

Without looking in major detail, so take what I say with a pinch of salt, I imagine it'd be considerably more expensive for a set of wheels + tyres. You'd probably want to consider looking at bikeradar trade section(or whatever its called), pinkbike etc. If you have the money by all means but don't forget you'll need to switch your cassette from the rear wheel. Easy enough as long as you've got the tools but you'd still need to do that too, if you forgot.

I know what it's like when it comes to removing tyres with tight beads but I'd be more inclined to just switch tyres when I need them rather than buy new wheels. Provided it's not too often.

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That looks not far off of the cycling zones that strava gave me. Not sure why the zones would be different for running.

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Thanks for your reply. I'm going to say that I honestly hadn't really considered changing the cassette.. that sounds less simple than I thought initially!

Honestly, money's not really an issue, it's more that I just don't really want to store 2 bikes... maybe it might just be better to rent... I don't know, I need to think it through a bit more I think!

Changing cassette isn't that difficult. You need a chain whip and a cassette tool. Adjustable spanner possibly depending on what cassette tool you get. Such a simple task. Insert cassette tool into lockring, place chain whip onto cassette teeth to prevent it from rotating when you turn the cassette tool anticlockwise. Comes off fairly easily. Simply use the cassette tool to screw the lockring back on. Once I have the wheel off I can switch it in probably 2 minutes flat.

Well, can't say I'm super well versed in wheels and tyres. I've bought my own but the wheels were on the basis of replacing my one and only pair and I think I got a good deal. It wasn't as a second pair, which possibly wouldn't be an issue to you. And I've only owned slicks for 2 years. Barely removed them.

Perhaps get some tyres first, give changing them a try. If the bead isn't too tight it shouldn't be a problem switching them over. Pain in the arse, granted. Def gonna want a floor pump. I'm beginning to see your point now. Totally forgot about having to pump them up each time. Ummm.... Pass. Someone else might be able to help more. Bikeradar? I get the concept behind wheels but in terms of what you need from rims and hubs for your purposes? Not so sure. What size are your wheels? 26"? 700b/c/whatever? I actually have a spare set of 26" wheels. Nothing special. Old stock wheels but I could give them a look and see if they're useful. And don't not sure exactly what kind of ground you're covering so not sure what tyres would work either. Something not quite like knobbly MTB tyres perhaps?