Uh, according to wiki, one up and one down is + - - -, and I'm pretty sure it's right. That's why I was saying you can't necessarily treat
γμ as a 4-vector. To be honest I'm a little confused as to why as well, it just seems that way. The really annoying thing is I swear I didn't have a problem with this last year, now I can't remember anything.
Because it's not a 4-vector, if you were dotting two vectors in normal 3D euclidean space then that's how you would do it.
Edit: Maybe it's because
∂μ is conjugate (cant think of a better word) to
xμ, so even though it transforms like
xμ, the minus signs work the other way around.