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I was hoping to find clipless pedals and shoes bundled so I could be sure of compatibility or are they all fine together? I think I want one sided pedals and possibly shoes where the cleats (I think that's the right term) are recessed into the sole
Original post by Drewski
Yeah, I don't want to shell out for shoes, new pedals and clips or whatever and find the 3 don't interact with one another. Want to buy once and buy well!
Original post by curtis871
I think that'll be something I'll be looking for soon. Started looking last week but got a bit confused 
.
she's a midget (not literally she was advised to get 16inch frames in two places, 17 in another) and Any bike that would get her to work and back (about 4 miles all completely flat)
.she's a midget
(not literally she was advised to get 16inch frames in two places, 17 in another) and Any bike that would get her to work and back (about 4 miles all completely flat)So apart from height she's in a similar place to me - I got a standard hybrid off eBay for £60 (in 2007, so about £75 now) which does the job. Am going to save up for a nicer-looking bike (and a Pendleton is a cheaper and more practical (lighter and gears!) alternative to a Dutch or Pashley) for when I graduate uni I think.
Original post by curtis871
x
Original post by Drewski
x
There's a few basic points to do with clipless shoes. You're right that you have three things, the shoe itself, the pedal, and the cleats, which are the things attached to the bottom of your shoe, which click into the pedal.
Normally when you buy pedals, the box includes one pair of cleats to attach to your shoes, so you know they will fit the pedals. You just have to make sure you buy shoes which are compatible with the pedals/cleats that you have.
There are two main types of shoes, mountain bike, and road shoes (and their respective pedals and cleats).
Mtb shoes have a recessed cleat, and you have a normal rubber tread on the bottom of the shoes, like this http://www.tredz.co.uk/prodimg/20517_1_Zoom.jpg. So when you're walking, you can walk around like in normal shoes, and the cleat won't hit the floor. When you get on the bike, the cleats can still attach to the pedal, and none of the other parts of the bottom of shoes, touch the pedal.
Road shoes have no sole on the bottom of the shoe. All they have on the bottom is the cleat. There is no tread on the shoe and the cleat is the only thing that makes contact with the floor when you walk. This makes it incredibly hard to walk as there's nothing to grip the floor with, and you kind of look like a penguin. For me it's even hard walking from my room to where I leave my bike, so I have to take slippers with me.
Mtb shoes are preferred by many because it means you can actually get off your bike and walk around a bit, go to a cafe or a pub, go to the toilet, then hop back onto your bike. Whereas in road shoes, they're designed solely for riding your bike, and I rarely do anything else in my road shoes because when I walk with them it damages the cleat and so the cleats need replacing quicker.
I want to stress that A LOT of people use mtb shoes even though they are riding a road bike. It's just having that option to walk in the shoes which makes mtb shoes really popular.
Mtb cleats and pedals are very small, and so pros go for the the bigger road cleats and pedals so there is less hotspotting on the ball of your foot (but this shouldn't really be a factor to consider unless you're riding all the time). Road shoes are lighter because they have no rubber tread on the bottom, and are also very very rigid. I mean you can't bend the sole at all, it always remains flat. This is to maximise efficiency. Again because the sole is so rigid, its hard to walk with. Having never owned mtb shoes, I can't comment on how big a difference you feel when actually cycling with mtb shoes and road shoes, but I imagine it's probably not that big a difference at this level, and other things like fitness, correct bike position, will be more important than simply the shoes you wear.
Heres a comparison of the two types of shoe.
http://drivemybike.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/cleatcompare1.jpg
As you can see, the road shoe has a significantly bigger cleat, and has no tread.
Mtb shoes have a two hole cleat system. They are commonly called SPD. Any shoe that has two holes http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mSVQg0ShU_QbR0aPqqX1Gcg.jpg, are mtb shoes.
The cleats tend to look like this. http://www.evanscycles.com/product_image/image/d9e/d59/8df/26230/product_page/shimano-sh51-spd-cleats.jpg.
Road shoes have a three hole cleat system. They are commonly called SPD-SL. http://www.brianrourke.co.uk/img/pds2/PROSALE.jpg.
The cleats look like this. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-h1IoOC0RV4A/T13mJnKfgKI/AAAAAAAACbo/qCDcwhrgQS0/s1600/Road+Cleat+Shoe.jpg
The first thing you should decide is whether you want mtb shoes or road shoes. Most people choose mtb shoes for their first pair of shoes because of its versatility and ease of use. At a beginners level, having slightly heavier shoes and having smaller pedals is not really going to make that much of a difference, and you'll never know when you will want to walk around in your cycling shoes. They tend to be cheaper as well, and the cleats won't need replacing very often, compared with road shoes. However with that said, my first pair of cycling shoes were road shoes. Initially after the first 6 months, I so wished I had mtb shoes so that I could do other things in them like walking around. I only bought road shoes because I got a good deal on 2nd hand shoes. But in hindsight, I've now got used to them, and if I could do it again, I'd buy road shoes again. Though I only ever get on my bike, ride around for 2 hours, then come back and get off the bike. I think if I was commuting with my bike in say london every day, where you have to constantly stop at traffic lights etc, I would definitely go with mtb shoes.
Once you have decided which type of shoe you want, then you can start picking pedals/cleats. You must always match the brand of pedal, with the brand of cleats. E.g. shimano cleats only work with shimano pedals, look only work with look.
But you don't need to match shoe brands with pedal/cleat brands. E.g. as long as your shoes are two hole compatible, then any two hole pedal/cleats will work with them.
The most popular mtb pedals are the shimano m520 spd pedals, and the sh51 or sh52 or sh56 (multi-release) cleats. I would completely recommend double sided pedals, even for beginners. Many beginners choose to go for a one sided pedal, one side has a slot for the cleats, one side is flat like a normal pedal. The shimano A530 is the most popular one. http://www.tredz.co.uk/prodimg/15541_1_Large.jpg. People choose this because they think, oh if one side is a normal pedal then it'll be easier to get pedalling if I can't get the cleat in properly. However clicking the cleat into the pedal quickly becomes very easy to do, and then it gets annoying that you can only click in on one side. E.g. if you stop at a traffic light, when you get pedalling again, you need to spin the pedal around until you get to the side where you can click the cleats into.
The most popular style of road pedals are the shimano SPD-SLs, or the look keos. Be careful because the pedals and the cleats both look the same, but they aren't compatible with each other. The look deltas were the older version of look road pedals, but they no longer produce these (though you might find these 2nd hand).
Road pedals are only one sided, but the pedals always have this thick weighty bit at the back of the pedal. When you stop, say at a traffic light, the weighty back part of the pedal will always hang at the bottom. So you will always just step on the pedal and automatically click in.
You can get completely different looking pedals and cleats, like the speedplays or time, but these are usually very expensive and I wouldn't recommend them
Original post by RibenaRockstar
So apart from height she's in a similar place to me - I got a standard hybrid off eBay for £60 (in 2007, so about £75 now) which does the job. Am going to save up for a nicer-looking bike (and a Pendleton is a cheaper and more practical (lighter and gears!) alternative to a Dutch or Pashley) for when I graduate uni I think.
Well enjoy your new bike whichever you choose
.Original post by v2p
There's a few basic points to do with clipless shoes. You're right that you have three things, the shoe itself, the pedal, and the cleats, which are the things attached to the bottom of your shoe, which click into the pedal.
Normally when you buy pedals, the box includes one pair of cleats to attach to your shoes, so you know they will fit the pedals. You just have to make sure you buy shoes which are compatible with the pedals/cleats that you have.
There are two main types of shoes, mountain bike, and road shoes (and their respective pedals and cleats).
Mtb shoes have a recessed cleat, and you have a normal rubber tread on the bottom of the shoes, like this http://www.tredz.co.uk/prodimg/20517_1_Zoom.jpg. So when you're walking, you can walk around like in normal shoes, and the cleat won't hit the floor. When you get on the bike, the cleats can still attach to the pedal, and none of the other parts of the bottom of shoes, touch the pedal.
Road shoes have no sole on the bottom of the shoe. All they have on the bottom is the cleat. There is no tread on the shoe and the cleat is the only thing that makes contact with the floor when you walk. This makes it incredibly hard to walk as there's nothing to grip the floor with, and you kind of look like a penguin. For me it's even hard walking from my room to where I leave my bike, so I have to take slippers with me.
Mtb shoes are preferred by many because it means you can actually get off your bike and walk around a bit, go to a cafe or a pub, go to the toilet, then hop back onto your bike. Whereas in road shoes, they're designed solely for riding your bike, and I rarely do anything else in my road shoes because when I walk with them it damages the cleat and so the cleats need replacing quicker.
I want to stress that A LOT of people use mtb shoes even though they are riding a road bike. It's just having that option to walk in the shoes which makes mtb shoes really popular.
Mtb cleats and pedals are very small, and so pros go for the the bigger road cleats and pedals so there is less hotspotting on the ball of your foot (but this shouldn't really be a factor to consider unless you're riding all the time). Road shoes are lighter because they have no rubber tread on the bottom, and are also very very rigid. I mean you can't bend the sole at all, it always remains flat. This is to maximise efficiency. Again because the sole is so rigid, its hard to walk with. Having never owned mtb shoes, I can't comment on how big a difference you feel when actually cycling with mtb shoes and road shoes, but I imagine it's probably not that big a difference at this level, and other things like fitness, correct bike position, will be more important than simply the shoes you wear.
Heres a comparison of the two types of shoe.
http://drivemybike.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/cleatcompare1.jpg
As you can see, the road shoe has a significantly bigger cleat, and has no tread.
Mtb shoes have a two hole cleat system. They are commonly called SPD. Any shoe that has two holes http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mSVQg0ShU_QbR0aPqqX1Gcg.jpg, are mtb shoes.
The cleats tend to look like this. http://www.evanscycles.com/product_image/image/d9e/d59/8df/26230/product_page/shimano-sh51-spd-cleats.jpg.
Road shoes have a three hole cleat system. They are commonly called SPD-SL. http://www.brianrourke.co.uk/img/pds2/PROSALE.jpg.
The cleats look like this. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-h1IoOC0RV4A/T13mJnKfgKI/AAAAAAAACbo/qCDcwhrgQS0/s1600/Road+Cleat+Shoe.jpg
The first thing you should decide is whether you want mtb shoes or road shoes. Most people choose mtb shoes for their first pair of shoes because of its versatility and ease of use. At a beginners level, having slightly heavier shoes and having smaller pedals is not really going to make that much of a difference, and you'll never know when you will want to walk around in your cycling shoes. They tend to be cheaper as well, and the cleats won't need replacing very often, compared with road shoes. However with that said, my first pair of cycling shoes were road shoes. Initially after the first 6 months, I so wished I had mtb shoes so that I could do other things in them like walking around. I only bought road shoes because I got a good deal on 2nd hand shoes. But in hindsight, I've now got used to them, and if I could do it again, I'd buy road shoes again. Though I only ever get on my bike, ride around for 2 hours, then come back and get off the bike. I think if I was commuting with my bike in say london every day, where you have to constantly stop at traffic lights etc, I would definitely go with mtb shoes.
Once you have decided which type of shoe you want, then you can start picking pedals/cleats. You must always match the brand of pedal, with the brand of cleats. E.g. shimano cleats only work with shimano pedals, look only work with look.
But you don't need to match shoe brands with pedal/cleat brands. E.g. as long as your shoes are two hole compatible, then any two hole pedal/cleats will work with them.
The most popular mtb pedals are the shimano m520 spd pedals, and the sh51 or sh52 or sh56 (multi-release) cleats. I would completely recommend double sided pedals, even for beginners. Many beginners choose to go for a one sided pedal, one side has a slot for the cleats, one side is flat like a normal pedal. The shimano A530 is the most popular one. http://www.tredz.co.uk/prodimg/15541_1_Large.jpg. People choose this because they think, oh if one side is a normal pedal then it'll be easier to get pedalling if I can't get the cleat in properly. However clicking the cleat into the pedal quickly becomes very easy to do, and then it gets annoying that you can only click in on one side. E.g. if you stop at a traffic light, when you get pedalling again, you need to spin the pedal around until you get to the side where you can click the cleats into.
The most popular style of road pedals are the shimano SPD-SLs, or the look keos. Be careful because the pedals and the cleats both look the same, but they aren't compatible with each other. The look deltas were the older version of look road pedals, but they no longer produce these (though you might find these 2nd hand).
Road pedals are only one sided, but the pedals always have this thick weighty bit at the back of the pedal. When you stop, say at a traffic light, the weighty back part of the pedal will always hang at the bottom. So you will always just step on the pedal and automatically click in.
You can get completely different looking pedals and cleats, like the speedplays or time, but these are usually very expensive and I wouldn't recommend them
Normally when you buy pedals, the box includes one pair of cleats to attach to your shoes, so you know they will fit the pedals. You just have to make sure you buy shoes which are compatible with the pedals/cleats that you have.
There are two main types of shoes, mountain bike, and road shoes (and their respective pedals and cleats).
Mtb shoes have a recessed cleat, and you have a normal rubber tread on the bottom of the shoes, like this http://www.tredz.co.uk/prodimg/20517_1_Zoom.jpg. So when you're walking, you can walk around like in normal shoes, and the cleat won't hit the floor. When you get on the bike, the cleats can still attach to the pedal, and none of the other parts of the bottom of shoes, touch the pedal.
Road shoes have no sole on the bottom of the shoe. All they have on the bottom is the cleat. There is no tread on the shoe and the cleat is the only thing that makes contact with the floor when you walk. This makes it incredibly hard to walk as there's nothing to grip the floor with, and you kind of look like a penguin. For me it's even hard walking from my room to where I leave my bike, so I have to take slippers with me.
Mtb shoes are preferred by many because it means you can actually get off your bike and walk around a bit, go to a cafe or a pub, go to the toilet, then hop back onto your bike. Whereas in road shoes, they're designed solely for riding your bike, and I rarely do anything else in my road shoes because when I walk with them it damages the cleat and so the cleats need replacing quicker.
I want to stress that A LOT of people use mtb shoes even though they are riding a road bike. It's just having that option to walk in the shoes which makes mtb shoes really popular.
Mtb cleats and pedals are very small, and so pros go for the the bigger road cleats and pedals so there is less hotspotting on the ball of your foot (but this shouldn't really be a factor to consider unless you're riding all the time). Road shoes are lighter because they have no rubber tread on the bottom, and are also very very rigid. I mean you can't bend the sole at all, it always remains flat. This is to maximise efficiency. Again because the sole is so rigid, its hard to walk with. Having never owned mtb shoes, I can't comment on how big a difference you feel when actually cycling with mtb shoes and road shoes, but I imagine it's probably not that big a difference at this level, and other things like fitness, correct bike position, will be more important than simply the shoes you wear.
Heres a comparison of the two types of shoe.
http://drivemybike.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/cleatcompare1.jpg
As you can see, the road shoe has a significantly bigger cleat, and has no tread.
Mtb shoes have a two hole cleat system. They are commonly called SPD. Any shoe that has two holes http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mSVQg0ShU_QbR0aPqqX1Gcg.jpg, are mtb shoes.
The cleats tend to look like this. http://www.evanscycles.com/product_image/image/d9e/d59/8df/26230/product_page/shimano-sh51-spd-cleats.jpg.
Road shoes have a three hole cleat system. They are commonly called SPD-SL. http://www.brianrourke.co.uk/img/pds2/PROSALE.jpg.
The cleats look like this. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-h1IoOC0RV4A/T13mJnKfgKI/AAAAAAAACbo/qCDcwhrgQS0/s1600/Road+Cleat+Shoe.jpg
The first thing you should decide is whether you want mtb shoes or road shoes. Most people choose mtb shoes for their first pair of shoes because of its versatility and ease of use. At a beginners level, having slightly heavier shoes and having smaller pedals is not really going to make that much of a difference, and you'll never know when you will want to walk around in your cycling shoes. They tend to be cheaper as well, and the cleats won't need replacing very often, compared with road shoes. However with that said, my first pair of cycling shoes were road shoes. Initially after the first 6 months, I so wished I had mtb shoes so that I could do other things in them like walking around. I only bought road shoes because I got a good deal on 2nd hand shoes. But in hindsight, I've now got used to them, and if I could do it again, I'd buy road shoes again. Though I only ever get on my bike, ride around for 2 hours, then come back and get off the bike. I think if I was commuting with my bike in say london every day, where you have to constantly stop at traffic lights etc, I would definitely go with mtb shoes.
Once you have decided which type of shoe you want, then you can start picking pedals/cleats. You must always match the brand of pedal, with the brand of cleats. E.g. shimano cleats only work with shimano pedals, look only work with look.
But you don't need to match shoe brands with pedal/cleat brands. E.g. as long as your shoes are two hole compatible, then any two hole pedal/cleats will work with them.
The most popular mtb pedals are the shimano m520 spd pedals, and the sh51 or sh52 or sh56 (multi-release) cleats. I would completely recommend double sided pedals, even for beginners. Many beginners choose to go for a one sided pedal, one side has a slot for the cleats, one side is flat like a normal pedal. The shimano A530 is the most popular one. http://www.tredz.co.uk/prodimg/15541_1_Large.jpg. People choose this because they think, oh if one side is a normal pedal then it'll be easier to get pedalling if I can't get the cleat in properly. However clicking the cleat into the pedal quickly becomes very easy to do, and then it gets annoying that you can only click in on one side. E.g. if you stop at a traffic light, when you get pedalling again, you need to spin the pedal around until you get to the side where you can click the cleats into.
The most popular style of road pedals are the shimano SPD-SLs, or the look keos. Be careful because the pedals and the cleats both look the same, but they aren't compatible with each other. The look deltas were the older version of look road pedals, but they no longer produce these (though you might find these 2nd hand).
Road pedals are only one sided, but the pedals always have this thick weighty bit at the back of the pedal. When you stop, say at a traffic light, the weighty back part of the pedal will always hang at the bottom. So you will always just step on the pedal and automatically click in.
You can get completely different looking pedals and cleats, like the speedplays or time, but these are usually very expensive and I wouldn't recommend them
thank you for this
.Original post by v2p
x
What an amazingly helpful post, thank you! +rep.
Would you recommend double sided pedals then, even for newbies? I'm about to buy my first set of SPD pedals and I can't decide between the two. Also, rule 60 of the Highway Code it says that bicycles must be fitted with pedals which have reflectors; most SPD pedals don't. In practice, do the police even care about this? I'm guessing not, but when I cycle 30 miles to college I have to pass through long stretches of unlit road, and every bit of visibility helps, which is why I am thinking about buying these Shimano XT SPD Trekking T780 MTB Pedals. Also, if one were to buy double sided pedals, could they be ridden with normal shoes, as most SPD cleats only have a raised surface of a few mm don't they?
Thanks!
Original post by v2p
x
Extremely informative, thanks.
I've read that some shoes fit small, so you need a size up. Is this true throughout or a more individual brand thing?
Original post by v2p
...
I've linked this write up in the first post in this thread so if anyone asks anything to do with shoes, cleats or pedals, send them there!
Throwing a question out to everyone here as this thread has been pretty active lately. Based on v2p's write up, might be a good idea to have other explanations of cycling kit/gear. Could even get a wiki page up for cycling specific articles. Thoughts?
Original post by Roobsa
I've linked this write up in the first post in this thread so if anyone asks anything to do with shoes, cleats or pedals, send them there!
Throwing a question out to everyone here as this thread has been pretty active lately. Based on v2p's write up, might be a good idea to have other explanations of cycling kit/gear. Could even get a wiki page up for cycling specific articles. Thoughts?
Throwing a question out to everyone here as this thread has been pretty active lately. Based on v2p's write up, might be a good idea to have other explanations of cycling kit/gear. Could even get a wiki page up for cycling specific articles. Thoughts?
I like that idea but I wouldn't be able to help much making it, I just don't know enough yet. I'd be using it a lot though
Original post by 21stcenturyphantom
In practice, do the police even care about this?
In short: no.
There are plenty of other ways to make yourself be seen other than reflectors on pedals. Wearing a hi vis jacket, a HUMP cover or a solid set of lights are much more important in my opinion. My advice is get the pedals that you think you need, not what the Highway Code says you need.
Original post by Roobsa
In short: no.
There are plenty of other ways to make yourself be seen other than reflectors on pedals. Wearing a hi vis jacket, a HUMP cover or a solid set of lights are much more important in my opinion. My advice is get the pedals that you think you need, not what the Highway Code says you need.
There are plenty of other ways to make yourself be seen other than reflectors on pedals. Wearing a hi vis jacket, a HUMP cover or a solid set of lights are much more important in my opinion. My advice is get the pedals that you think you need, not what the Highway Code says you need.
This. Lights and/or a hi vis jacket will do much more than reflectors on pedals. It'd have to be one heck of a jobsworth of a policeman to pull you over and fine for not having reflectors on your pedals.
I've never been pulled over for not having reflectors anywhere. I do have good lights though, which is what I would recommend 
Someone asked about shoe sizing, I know the shimano ones are generally small, I take a 6 in normal shoes and needed a 7 in my spd-sls (which was lucky because they only started at size 7) Don't know about others, might be best to go to your LBS and buy from there so you can find ones you like. Shimano are also quite narrow fitting compared to other brands I've heard, but can't really say, I've only ever had my shimanos.
Just spent this weeks wages on rapha. oops
their waterproofs better be as good as the reviews say.
Someone asked about shoe sizing, I know the shimano ones are generally small, I take a 6 in normal shoes and needed a 7 in my spd-sls (which was lucky because they only started at size 7
) Don't know about others, might be best to go to your LBS and buy from there so you can find ones you like. Shimano are also quite narrow fitting compared to other brands I've heard, but can't really say, I've only ever had my shimanos.Just spent this weeks wages on rapha. oops
their waterproofs better be as good as the reviews say.(edited 10 years ago)
Original post by RibenaRockstar
Talking of pretty bikes... anyone else lusting after the Pendleton range? (Especially the Somerby, yum yum)
My mum's looking at getting one of the pendletons, they seem fairly good value for money and she hates the giant hybrid that I lent her
says she spent the whole time looking at the floor lol 
so thinking a nice girly bike might be better for her 
I bought some mitts yesterday. Possibly spent more than I needed to but I think they seemed ok. Also did a ride which I think was equal to the longest ride I've ever done before so I'm getting back in the saddle as it were. Just trying to work out my next longest ride. I have a possible 17 miler. I don't want to push myself too far just yet so I'll probably have it finish at a train station as a convenient way to get home. I think my general idea is to work up to a 28 mile one I have planned and see how it goes. Gives me time to build up my thigh muscles and glutes too. Not sure how my legs are feeling just yet but I have a rest day now anyway. Not really sure what my final aim is just yet.
Between 17 and 28 miles would you recommend just one or two rides of lengths longer than 17 miles to work up to it? I guess 1 might be ok, I was thinking of going from 12~ to 17, just don't want to push myself too hard as I say.
I did think of getting a jersey but I might search eBay before I decide.
Between 17 and 28 miles would you recommend just one or two rides of lengths longer than 17 miles to work up to it? I guess 1 might be ok, I was thinking of going from 12~ to 17, just don't want to push myself too hard as I say.
I did think of getting a jersey but I might search eBay before I decide.
Original post by alexs2602
I bought some mitts yesterday. Possibly spent more than I needed to but I think they seemed ok. Also did a ride which I think was equal to the longest ride I've ever done before so I'm getting back in the saddle as it were. Just trying to work out my next longest ride. I have a possible 17 miler. I don't want to push myself too far just yet so I'll probably have it finish at a train station as a convenient way to get home. I think my general idea is to work up to a 28 mile one I have planned and see how it goes. Gives me time to build up my thigh muscles and glutes too. Not sure how my legs are feeling just yet but I have a rest day now anyway. Not really sure what my final aim is just yet.
Between 17 and 28 miles would you recommend just one or two rides of lengths longer than 17 miles to work up to it? I guess 1 might be ok, I was thinking of going from 12~ to 17, just don't want to push myself too hard as I say.
I did think of getting a jersey but I might search eBay before I decide.
Between 17 and 28 miles would you recommend just one or two rides of lengths longer than 17 miles to work up to it? I guess 1 might be ok, I was thinking of going from 12~ to 17, just don't want to push myself too hard as I say.
I did think of getting a jersey but I might search eBay before I decide.
If you can do 17, I'd say you can do 28 without too many issues. Jerseys are a must for a road cyclist!
Original post by Roobsa
If you can do 17, I'd say you can do 28 without too many issues. Jerseys are a must for a road cyclist!
I second that, unless its somewhere especially hilly, even then proper gearing and not pushing yourself should make it achievable. I've gone out and done 25-30 milers with very little training, previous to that was probably 10-12 miles 2 or 3 months beforehand...
that's the thing with cycling, I think it's pretty easy to achieve a decent cycle when you're up and going as it's not that much effort unless you're really pushing yourself for speed!
...unless you're a headcase like me who thinks "well, I do a flat 10mile route at 20-23mph, so I'll do a 45 mile route... with hills... at 20-23mph... easy".
Chuffing isn't.
But my own pride won't let me cycle slower in order to preserve energy for a longer ride, despite the fact I know I'm going to be going a long distance.
Chuffing isn't.
But my own pride won't let me cycle slower in order to preserve energy for a longer ride, despite the fact I know I'm going to be going a long distance.
Original post by Drewski
But my own pride won't let me cycle slower in order to preserve energy for a longer ride, despite the fact I know I'm going to be going a long distance.
Yeah you should fix that. I kind of did something similar for the Tour of Wessex, went really hard on day 2, probably too hard and definitely paid with pain on the 3rd day.
In other news, I've done my knee in running. I thought I'd try and keep my fitness levels up since I can't cycle and I might have made things worse. Worst case scenario I think is torn ligament. Unsure whether to go to the doctors or not and just keep it rested and iced up when I can. Running is bad for cyclists!
Original post by Roobsa
Yeah you should fix that. I kind of did something similar for the Tour of Wessex, went really hard on day 2, probably too hard and definitely paid with pain on the 3rd day.
In other news, I've done my knee in running. I thought I'd try and keep my fitness levels up since I can't cycle and I might have made things worse. Worst case scenario I think is torn ligament. Unsure whether to go to the doctors or not and just keep it rested and iced up when I can. Running is bad for cyclists!
In other news, I've done my knee in running. I thought I'd try and keep my fitness levels up since I can't cycle and I might have made things worse. Worst case scenario I think is torn ligament. Unsure whether to go to the doctors or not and just keep it rested and iced up when I can. Running is bad for cyclists!
It's because I go solo. I've got noone to say "stop being a dick".
Don't go straight to the docs. Rest up. Do nothing for a while. Ease it back into gentle movements and see how it feels. If it persists after a few days, then go get help.
Original post by Roobsa
Yeah you should fix that. I kind of did something similar for the Tour of Wessex, went really hard on day 2, probably too hard and definitely paid with pain on the 3rd day.
In other news, I've done my knee in running. I thought I'd try and keep my fitness levels up since I can't cycle and I might have made things worse. Worst case scenario I think is torn ligament. Unsure whether to go to the doctors or not and just keep it rested and iced up when I can. Running is bad for cyclists!
In other news, I've done my knee in running. I thought I'd try and keep my fitness levels up since I can't cycle and I might have made things worse. Worst case scenario I think is torn ligament. Unsure whether to go to the doctors or not and just keep it rested and iced up when I can. Running is bad for cyclists!
I heard from a cyclist that riding causes shortening of your hamstrings thus making running harder and your body more susceptible to injury during running.
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