The Student Room Group

New battery but car won't start

Hi

I have a 1999 1.1 Peugeot 206 which has just been through and passed MOT. I brought it home from Garage last Thursday and not driven it since. Started it up yesterday and nothing. The battery would not charge so brought a new one today, it started first time and now it will not start! It clicks and lights on dash are on but the engine will not start.

I have read that cleaning the battery terminals could help if they are corroded but I will have to wait until my boyfriend comes back to do that. What else could be the problem if not that?

Thanks :smile:

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Reply 1
Either the alternator, or a small short that's draining the battery when standing.
Reply 2
Clicking could suggest that the plugs are sparking but there's no fuel in the lines.
Reply 3
Original post by Camoxide
Clicking could suggest that the plugs are sparking but there's no fuel in the lines.


BZZZZZZZ

Clicking is the starter solenoid 99% of the time. Depending on the fuel pump design it could be that, but almost all modern cars have silent fuel pumps so it's very unlikely. All the clicking means is that the turning the key in the ignition is closing the solenoid points, and that there's not enough battery juice to turn the engine over. These clicks are usually hidden behind the start of the motor kicking the engine over.
Reply 4
Original post by Camoxide
Clicking could suggest that the plugs are sparking but there's no fuel in the lines.


Incorrect.

A click when you turn the key signifies a relay has been activated.
On a modern car, a ticking sound like a machine gun is the starter solanoid moving in and out.
Reply 5
Original post by JC.
Incorrect.

A click when you turn the key signifies a relay has been activated.
On a modern car, a ticking sound like a machine gun is the starter solanoid moving in and out.


i had worn out brushes on my starter motor. I'd say it sounded more like a giants stopwatch than a machine gun tbh, but my cars are probably smaller and quieter than your.
If it's brushes you 'll want a reconditioned starter motor which is pretty easy to fit yourself.
Reply 6
Check the voltage on the battery and then connect an ammeter with the ignition off to see where the drain is, if any.

Once you have checked that, then look mechanical.

Always remember MBE. Must Be Electrical.
Reply 7
Original post by gbduo
Check the voltage on the battery and then connect an ammeter with the ignition off to see where the drain is, if any.

Once you have checked that, then look mechanical.

Always remember MBE. Must Be Electrical.


That depends on the symptoms :wink: When my Dad's old Picasso decided to dump the components of it's turbo down the exhaust system, we were pretty sure it wasn't an electrical issue when it ground to a halt at the side of the motorway :tongue:
Get a big pole and hit the starter motor a couple of times (a trick taught to me by a mechanic when I had a knackered starter motor on the rover 25 that clicked when I turned the ignition key!)

It's worth a shot and its free :wink:


This was posted from The Student Room's iPhone/iPad App
Reply 9
Original post by Nuffles
That depends on the symptoms :wink: When my Dad's old Picasso decided to dump the components of it's turbo down the exhaust system, we were pretty sure it wasn't an electrical issue when it ground to a halt at the side of the motorway :tongue:


Haha, undoubtedly it was a electrical problem behind it, maybe the electric driven wastegate didn't open :biggrin: :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:
Reply 10
Sounds like the battery is not charging, or being drained from a bad connection.

You confirm its either of these by charging the battery (with one of those £15 chargers from halfords) or jump starting it. If you can start it fine, the starter motor etc is not a problem and it must be the battery charging (alternator) or draining too much (bad connection/earth).
Reply 11
Could do with a jump start I think? Sounds like you haven't driven much so battery could do with charging.

Jump start and a 20min drive. I could be wrong, but speaking from experience on my Peugeot 307.
Reply 12
Thanks guys for your replies.

Got a mechanic coming to look at it tomorrow. With all these suggestions I will be able to sound like I know what I am talking about! From what is said it does seem like a fault with the alternator and just hope its not a costly job to repair/ replace.

Its not been driven much as I recently brought it and previous owner had it declared Sorn and on their drive since July.
Reply 13
Hit the starter motor with a hammer then try it again. (A swift tap).
Reply 14
Original post by maree30
Thanks guys for your replies.

Got a mechanic coming to look at it tomorrow. With all these suggestions I will be able to sound like I know what I am talking about! From what is said it does seem like a fault with the alternator and just hope its not a costly job to repair/ replace.

Its not been driven much as I recently brought it and previous owner had it declared Sorn and on their drive since July.


Depending on the car, the alternator can cost anything between 50 and 150 quid, one for my Golf cost £60 after I traded in the old one and it took Dad and me about 30 minutes to fit it on the drive.
Reply 15
Two mechanics have looked at it and said the problem is definitely electrical.
The first person didn't appear to have a clue and said it looked to be the coil pack and was going to get another.

I got another person and he has said coil pack is ok and looks like the camshaft and is going to replace that. I'm hoping its that and nothing else. Starter appears to be fine the second man said. Does this sound about right as obviously I have no clue!
Reply 16
The camshaft has nothing whatsoever to do with Electrics on the car or why the battery would be failing.

What garages are you going to!?
Reply 17
its a mobile mechanic who is looking at the car as it won't start to take it to a garage. The battery is fine after being tested so do not think it was the battery in the first place.

Forgot to say the car's ecu would not read either so could not determine a fault code so he has had to just look at everything.
Reply 18
Camshafts though, they open and close valves, I mean you should never need to replace them. They usually last the length of the engine as they are not a highly stressed part (in your engine).

I would still say it is electrical and not mechanical. Starter relay or something simple.
Reply 19
I agree with gbduo, they both sound like they don't really know what they're talking about. I'm still voting for the alternator/stuck relay/worn through wire too.

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