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    Come join in the motorbike society, whether you ride, like watching bike racing, or saw a pretty bike go past. We don't bite, and even if the thread seems off topic, we will always help with any bike questions.




    You’re probably here as you want to know about riding a motorbike/scooter/moped. There should be all the information you need to know included somewhere in this post, although I know it’s long, there is a lot of stuff included!


    Step one

    Before you can get near a bike you need to obtain a provisional license. If you have a car license (full or provisional) check your paper bit, you may already have the provisional entitlement (this should show as a ‘p’ for a moped or ‘a’ for motorbike. They are different.

    If you don’t have a provisional entitlement, then you can apply on-line here or get a D1 form from a post office. Once you have received this you can start your training.
    New Bike test routes



    Options
    Options at 16 – get a CBT and ride a 50cc bike or moped
    Options at 17-18 – get a CBT and ride up to a 125cc bike/scooter, or do your CBT, theory test and full restricted tests and ride a 125cc
    Options at 19-23 – get a CBT and ride up to a 125cc bike/scooter, or do your CBT, theory test and full restricted tests and ride anything that is restricted to 46.6bhp.
    Options at 24+ - get a CBT or or do your CBT, theory test and DAS and ride anything.

    CBT … what is that?

    This is a 1 day training course, which is compulsory and lasts for 2 years once it is completed. It should cost about £100, and is carried out both on and off road, and teaches you to ride safely. There are 5 parts:
    -Eye sight
    -Learning bike controls
    -Learning to ride the bike
    -Talk about the Highway Code and bike safety
    -Road riding

    Once successfully completed you get a certificate enabling you to ride a bike relevant to your age. You must ride displaying L plates; you cannot go on motorways, or carry pillions. If you are 16, you can ride a 50cc, or a 125cc if you’re 17 or over. It lasts for 2 years and then you must redo it, unless you pass your full test in the meantime.

    If you have a car license before 2001 you do not need to do this. If you have a car license and do the CBT this upgrades to a moped license (50cc no bigger!) and you don't need the L plates. Read Here


    Theory test … But I’ve done the car one

    Whether you’ve done the car theory test or not; you have to do a bike one as well. Much of it is the same, although there are some bike specific questions. It costs the same as the car (£31) and lasts two years

    Free trials here

    If you want to know more, read this


    ’ I’m bored of my 125, I want something BIGGER!’


    Lessons You can learn by yourself, or lessons with an instructor like car lessons, or you can do an intensive course

    what you can ride
    Options at 17-18 – get a CBT and ride up to a 125cc bike/scooter, or do your CBT, theory test and full restricted tests and ride a 125cc
    Options at 19-23 – get a CBT and ride up to a 125cc bike/scooter, or do your CBT, theory test and full restricted tests and ride anything that is restricted to 46.6bhp.
    Options at 24+ - get a CBT, or do your CBT, theory test and full restricted tests and ride anything that is restricted to 46.6bhp, or or do your CBT, theory test and DAS and ride anything.


    Ok, fussy details out the way, about the actual test..
    The motorbike test are the same, all that differs is the size of bike you take your test on. The bike tests have 2 parts.

    Module 1- from £15.50
    You must take with you your CBT certificate (DL196), your Theory and Hazard Perception Test pass certificate (less than 2 years old) and a valid licence. You must also be wearing suitable clothing. This covers manual handling, slalem and a figure of 8, cornering, hazard avoidance at 30mph, a U turn, slow riding, and an emergency stop at 32mph.It takes, on average, about 22 minutes. If you've reached the required standard your examiner will issue you with a pass certificate.

    Module one advice from Armador
    There are a lot of cool tips for it, though. I'll give you a few of the ones my instructor gave me:
    - Slalom and figure of 8 are all about keeping revs high but keeping the clutch in the friction zone and looking at the cones. If you feel the bike slip, don't drop the bike or put your foot down - let go of the clutch. It'll bring you back above ground level
    - Slow ride is piss-easy. Clutch in friction zone, about 3k rpm, watch for balance
    - Emergency stop brake order is a bit of front, a bit of back, a lot of front. Instructors are looking for the weight transfer, NOT the distance. If your front forks are compressed, he'll pass you. Remember the check over the shoulder at the end for added cool points.
    - Swerve is the trickiest bit of it. Counter steering makes it easy, but the hard bit is to do the swerve and land in the line of cones. The way my instructor kept saying is the easiest is to hammer into 2nd gear all the way to the speed trap, and as soon as you've gone past it, to let go of the throttle. Cruise past the swerve, and then brake nicely in the line. It worked for me the 2nd go (stopped accelerating too early on first go, 45kph)


    Module 2- from £75
    Is a road ride taking about 40minutes, which assesses your ability to ride safely. You will start with an eye test, then 2 show me, tell me questions before beginning the ride. You need all the documents you took to module one, plus the equipment.

    *Entitlement to ride bikes of different sizes*

    License changes

    MOPED - Licence category AM - maximum design speed between 25-45 km/h (also includes small three wheelers up to 50 cc and below 4 kW and light quadricycles with unladen mass less than 350 kg and up to 45 km/h). The minimum age to ride these vehicles will still be 16 and you'll still need to pass your CBT, theory test and practical test if you want a full moped licence.



    SMALL MOTORCYCLE - Licence category A1 (up to 125 cc, power output not more than 11 kW and a power to weight ratio not more than 0.1 kW per kg. Also tricycles with a power output not more than 15 kW). The minimum age limit for category A1 will still be 17 years and you'll still need to pass your CBT, theory test and practical test if you want a full A1 licence so that you can move up to a bigger bike two years later.



    MEDIUM MOTORCYCLE - Licence category A2 (up to 35 kW, (47bhp) with or without a sidecar, a power to weight ratio not more than 0.2 kW per kg - NB: the bike must not be restricted down from a vehicle of more than double its power). The minimum age for category A2 is 19 years. There are two ways to get this entitlement: 'Staged Access' if you have two years' experience on an A1 motorcycle by passing another practical test. 'Direct Access' if you do not have two years' experience on an A1 motorcycle, by passing a theory test and a practical test.



    LARGE MOTORCYCLE - Licence category A (machines unlimited in size and power, with or without a sidecar, and trikes with a power output of more than 15 kW). There are two ways to get this entitlement too. 'Staged Access' if you have two years' experience on an A2 motorcycle by passing another practical test. 'Direct Access' if you are aged 24 or older and do not have two years' experience on an A2 motorcycle, by passing a theory test and a practical test.



    TRIKES - You'll need to follow the same rules if you want to ride a trike that falls within these categories. MAG has asked for confirmation from DSA whether this takes us from a position where you can currently ride a trike from age 17 on a car licence, to a position where you will have to be aged at least 21 and have worked your way through Staged Access (or take Direct Access from age 24). NB: Tests using mopeds with three or four wheels, motorcycle-sidecar outfits, A1 tricycles and A tricycles will only be offered to the physically disabled.



    So you’ve passed your CBT/bike test and are ready to go? (Equipment)

    Equipment
    Legally you HAVE to wear a helmet. That’s it. Not even a pair of pants, just a helmet.

    You should also get gloves, jacket, trousers, and boots. This doesn't mean full leathers, although these are still considered the best, but at £700 plus for a full suit, it can be expensive. Textile protective clothing is a cheaper option, but sacrifices itself in an accident.

    A helmet can cost from £45 although the more expensive ones will offer more protection, be quieter, wind proof, not fog up, can have blue tooth, an a sun visor built in, Shoei and Arai don't do helmets with built in sun visors as they state it compromises safety and they are designed for race use. If you want to get one and not use sun glasses, a tinted visor works, but these should not be used at night

    Gloves can cost from £30, they can be textile or leather gloves, with amour in the knuckles, and they shouldn't be too tight as in winter you will get cold quickly, but tight enough they don't fall of. In winter heated grips and motorbike muffs help keep hands warm

    Jackets cost from £60, you want textile or leather, with built in body armour, this will help absorb the impact of an accident. Most come with a thin bit of foam as a back protector. KNOX do a CE approved replacement, or a separate one can be used
    Trousers can be over trousers or instead of your normal trousers, and can cost from £40. Look for knee and hip amour. Draggin jeans/hood jeans/RST do some are an option, but while they will save your skin, you may still shatter your knee caps on impact, so you should look into some amour inserts for the point of impact, i.e. your knees and hips. You won't need knee sliders until you are trying to get your knee down and can actually ride.

    Boots I'll be honest, I spent 3 years wearing hiking boots before finding a pair that fitted me. You can get boots from about £50, and the idea is in a crash they will hold your feet together. Trainers will not do this. There are a range of bots, touring, which are just a protective leather boot with padding on the shins, sports which feature toe sliders for when you are scraping along the floor, and motocross boots which ratchet up. These are the bulkiest. Chose them on your riding, cost and what you like the look of. As well as what’s comfortable!

    Body armour is something you can use to increase your safety, for example a back protector (as made by Knox or Forcefield) could save your life, and possibly prevent you from being paralysed. You can get armour to put in your jacket for knees, shoulders, hips, elbows and chest.

    I am going to stress the importance of Back Protectors
    Basics. You wear a helmet to protect your head as without it you'd die. You can live with a severed spinal cord but you won't be walking. The aim of the back protector is to provide as much protection for your back as possible, from impact like landing on a stone, sliding along the road or being flung into a sign or armaco. when you crash you may have to roll or bend on impact which is why something ridged isn't ideal, the back protector she be able to absorb the impact on landing and not transfer it on to you, which not snapping as you are flung through the air. (This should apply to all)

    A solid back protector will protect you from punctures, but soft will absorb the impact, it depends what you use it for.

    My preference is for a Forcefield L2. Voted best buy in RiDe magazine, but there are Forcefield Level 1, 2 and 4. 4 is far thicker than level 2, and while it transmits less than 4kn to the body, compared to the less than 6 (I think of the L2) it is over twice the thickness and I didn't find it so comfortable.

    Knox do them, Halvarssons, Oxford, Alpinestar. I use a separate one under my jacket, partially as I have 4 different jackets I use. If you already have leathers it might not fit under them so take your jacket with you when you go to buy on, or buy a new jacket
    http://www.motorcyclenews.com/upload...tor%20test.pdf


    So now am I ready, I’ve got the training and the gear?!?

    I suppose you want a bike then!
    Mopeds and Scooters
    Mopeds (hair dryers) - less than 50cc automatic bike. Speed limited to 32mph.Examples include
    Yamaha ones
    Peugeot ones

    Scooters
    They are automatic, and range from 50cc up to 840cc. If you are 17 you can ride one that is 125cc, with a CBT, any larger and you need a full bike license to ride them

    Motorbikes
    Once you pass bike test there are different sorts of bike you can ride, what you get depends on your license and also where you want to ride.
    125cc/250cc for town riding
    Aprilia RS125 (not learner legal as is 33bhp when un-restricted)
    Honda's CBR125
    Yamaha YBR125
    Honda CG125 (bomb proof)
    Ninja 250 (Chilledice has one)
    CB125 (Smilingsam has one)
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    Motorways 400cc plus.
    If you are on a restricted license you have to restrict these to 46.6bhp, easily done by a garage, or by yourself on a carbed bike if you have the know-how.

    CBR400
    BANDIT 400 (bathwiggle)
    Suzuki GS500
    Suzuki SV650 (Landyjon/bathwiggle/lantana)
    XJ6 (gingerjak, bathwiggle has ridden one)
    CB500
    ER5
    ER6 Philo has one
    FZS600 (Fazer) (Boristhethird/Motorbiker both own and love these beautiful bikes)
    Gladius

    Restricting your bike is a legal requirement to allow you to meet the criteria of your license. If you don't restrict it, or remove the restricting (be it washers or ECU) you will not be riding in accordance with your license, therefore have no insurance and be breaking the law. Don't do it! And i know of cases should anyone want proof of police dyno'ing bikes to check the restriction. (This applies to mopeds and scooters too!)
    Spoiler:
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    Spoiler:
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    If you're a short female or just want to know what might suit you : http://cycle-ergo.com/ <-- that will tell you if you can sit on a bike, just tell it your height and it does the rest.
    Here gives a list of bike seat heights

    If you like a bike and it is too high you can remove padding from the seat, buy a different seat, adjust the suspension, raise the dog bones, or by Daytona Ladystar boots which have a nice thick sole to give you more height. – ask Bathwiggle or Lantana about this

    Do not go buy the first bike you see, try different bikes, as different styles suit different people. Please don't go buy an R6, you will probably kill yourself 5 miles down the road.


    License, gear bike……Insurance?

    Insurance
    I could sugar coat this, but I won’t. Most on here pay about £500 TPFT with no no-claims with no NCB.But compare this to £5,000 for similiar guys with cars and you'll see the £4.5k saving and the reason why motorbikes are awesome.
    (Helpful bit)
    Insurance depends on the bike (smaller=cheaper) age (older=cheaper) how you lock it (is it alarmed, disc locked, locked to an immovable object with a chain, go to a price comparison site, put in some details and see what it says, this is the most accurate way of giving you an idea of what insurance will cost. On the plus side, it’s cheaper than a car (normally)

    Suggested companies include Express insurance and The Bike Insurer


    You might want some Security

    To reduce your insurance security can be added to your bike.
    For example:
    -Disk lock (goes on your brake disc so the bike can't be wheeled away, different locks are better than others)
    -A chain (through the back wheel and around a lamp post or over the seat, if its on the ground it could be angle grinded away)
    -Ground anchor (cemented or drilled in to the ground so you can chain your bike to it)
    -Alarm (makes lots of noise when the bike is moved, but can drain your battery)
    -Data tag/alpha dot (means that if you bike is stolen it can be tracked back to you)
    -Tracker (emits a traceable signal that can be traced and used to locate the bike)



    How you can make biking cheaper and maintenance

    -You can keep costs down through varying means, for example sticking to the speed limit. I get 50miles more from my tank sitting at 70mph compared to sitting at 90mph.
    -Pre-planning and not harshly accelerating/breaking.
    -Shop around when your insurance is up, and Fully Comprehensive may be cheaper than Third Party. =If you have a cheap bike, Third Party, Fire and Theft will make more sense than Fully Comp.
    -Pay monthly for your insurance makes it easier, but it is cheaper normally to pay annually.
    -Don't get just 6 months tax, you can always SORN your bike if you aren't using it for a prolonged period of time. When you SORN the bike you can get a refund on the remaining full months of tax left.


    Advanced Training

    You have 4 main Options for advance rider training.
    These are the Bikesafe, ERS, IAM training and the ROSPA test.
    Bikesafe

    Bikesafe

    Summary:
    - Bikesafe is an introduction to advanced training, run by the Police.
    - It is a 1 or 2 day course
    - You can do it on any size engine, and even on a scooter if in London on their Scootersafe scheme
    - It is subsidised, and costs £40-60; you may get lunch included for this
    - You get a talk in the morning/first day and a ride in the afternoon/second day
    - You'll get lots of advice on how to improve your riding, and your bad habits will be pointed out so be prepared!

    Bikesafe is a "ride check" thing rather than an ongoing course like IAM or RoSPA (the IAM also offer a one-off ride check that is similar, for £35 I believe). It's usually a one or two day affair, run by the police, and is less likely to reduce your insurance premium than the advanced groups, although there are exceptions, usually the more expensive/well-known motorcycle insurers such as Devitt.

    A Bikesafe course usually costs between £40 and £60 - quite heavily subsidised by the police. It's not quite as centralised as other groups so there are differences in how it works depending on where you are in the country. In London, for example, the police run Scootersafe as well as Bikesafe, aiming to make scooter riders aware that they can improve their riding too. Unlike RoSPA and IAM (which require your machine to be totally capable of maintaining the national speed limit at all times), Bikesafe is open to people on smaller bikes as well.

    The course will start with a presentation by the police, involving powerpoint/videos/an officer talking about safe riding techniques, positioning etc. and other important safety points like checking your bike over thoroughly on a regular basis and wearing appropriate gear. If it's a one-day affair, this usually fills the morning and then lunch may be provided depending on the constabulary running it. If it's a two-day course, the presentation element will be all you get for the first day.

    In the afternoon/second day, you get the 'ride check' element. This involves riding around being followed by a police motorcyclist - don't worry, they're not always on police bikes! Much like your training, they usually take two riders to one police biker, and they'll match you up as closely as possible to another rider on the course in terms of machine capability & riding experience. They'll hook you up to a radio and take you on a variety of roads to see how you ride - you can specify which things you most want to concentrate on, e.g. filtering. They will tailor it for you to an extent. This won't last more than a couple of hours.

    Finally you'll get a thorough debriefing, talking about the ride itself and pointers for how you can improve and what to concentrate on.

    Bikesafe is more of an introduction to improving your riding - if you join the RoSPA/IAM a year after passing your test for example; Bikesafe is probably more suitable at 6 months after you pass.

    ERS

    The ERS is the Enhanced Riding Scheme. This Scheme is run by the DSA(the same people as the normal bike test). This is like the passplus of the bike world. This scheme is targeted at people who :
    * have just passed their test
    * are returning to riding
    * are upgrading to a bigger bike
    * feel their skills are a bit rusty

    As training is tailored to your needs, you do as little or as much training as required - mostly to help reduce key risk areas in on-road riding, such as bend negotiation, overtaking, filtering, positioning and junctions.

    ERS training starts when you book an ERS assessment with one of the expert trainers from the Driving Standards Agency (DSA) voluntary Register of Post-Test Motorcycle Trainers (RPMT).

    The assessment will identify your main strengths and weaknesses but there is no 'pass' or 'fail' - no test is involved and you cannot lose your licence. If your riding skills are satisfactory, the process ends there and you will be issued with an ERS certificate.

    If you do need training, the trainer will prepare a personalised training plan for you and concentrate on specific areas needing attention, rather than taking a �one size fits all� approach.

    Once you've completed your training, you'll receive a report and a 'DSA Certificate of Competence - Enhanced Rider Bonus', which then qualifies you for an insurance discount.
    Typical cost of ERS training
    The cost of the training will vary from provider to provider, and often from rider to rider dependent on individual needs. Talk to your local ERS trainers to find the best choice for you.

    IAM training

    IAM training
    Summary:
    How much does it cost? £139 plus a voluntary contribution to your observers petrol costs, this includes your test and unlimited observed rides.
    How do I join?: Go to www.iam.org.uk
    Should I do it?: Yes.
    IAM works by having a series of groups around the country, each has its own observers and leaders of the group, and the IAM supervises these groups and ensures all training is up to standard. To join the IAM you buy the "skills for life" program on the IAM website, currently costing £139 but it goes up each year. Once you have purchased your "skills for life" IAM will send you a pack containing a form which allows you to join your local IAM group, instructions on how to join, the IAM "how to be a better rider" book, a logbook and a form for booking your test.

    Once you have found your local group you ring/text/email them and join as an associate, using the form that the IAM will have sent you. You will be assigned an observer to follow you on arranged rides and impart advice on how to improve your riding; they will mark your ride out of ten in the following categories:

    * Vehicle Condition
    * Attire
    * Slow Riding
    * Moving off
    * Forward Observation
    * Use of Mirrors and Lifesavers
    * Positioning
    * Compliance with speed limits
    * Awareness of Road Surfaces and weather conditions
    * Progress in built up areas
    * Maintaining Progress
    * Motorways/ Dual Carriageways
    * Overtaking
    * Machine Control
    * General Restraint
    * Aptitude
    * Approach to the System


    These will be assessed on your advanced test and need to be above a 7/10 across the board to pass your test. A 3 is considered the level for a DSA "L plate" pass, and 10+ being Police standard.

    The training involves a series of rides where you will be instructed in skills such as correct road positioning, skilled town riding, the correct use of speed and how to overtake correctly. Once your observer believes that you are up to standard you will be put in for your advanced test; using the form that you received upon purchasing the "skills for life" pack. The advanced test is similar to an observed ride in that you will be followed by an advanced motorcyclist on a variety of roads over an extended ride. During the ride they will judge how safely and effectively you ride. The examiner is normally a police motorcyclist and *always* the best of the best.

    If you pass your IAM test you will become a full member of your local group and gain the benefits that all IAM members receive: Cheaper insurance, a safer riding style and the knowledge that you are a better road user than 90% of the people around you. If you wish to give something back to the group you can apply to become an observer yourself, your local group will train you to a level that allows you to teach other associates to become better riders, what could be more rewarding? :p:

    ROSPA test

    Cost- £54 for advanced riding test +£20 Annual fee for joining ROSPA
    The Groups
    Groups have volunteer tutors; they have all passed the advanced test themselves at a high grade and have also been trained and assessed in order to meet the requirements to provide training for the advanced test. They will all be registered tutors with RoSPA Advanced Drivers and Riders. Some approved tutors may have also undertaken further training in advanced instruction and have become advanced tutors. They also take retests every three years so you can be sure that you will receive a high level of training.

    What happens when I join a group?
    As a new member wishing to receive training you will be assigned to one of the group's tutors. You will both agree a convenient training session, usually weekly or fortnightly, lasting for 1-2 hours.

    The sessions are free. You will use your own vehicle for training and the tutors will give you guidance and advice. There is no limit to the number of lessons you are given - the groups are fully aware that everybody learns at a different pace and a training programme will be developed that best suits you.

    Training will continue at a steady pace until your tutor feels that you are ready for the test. Once you have passed your test, training and guidance through the local group will continue because we feel that a good rider never stops learning and skills need to be developed to keep up with today's ever changing traffic conditions.

    There are three standards of 'pass', gold being seen as the 'best' you can get outside of being a professional instructor or police rider.

    Gold
    This grade is recognised as the highest riding award available to the public. It will be awarded only to the polished systematic rider, who displays a complete understanding and appropriate application of the principles outlined in Motorcycle Roadcraft. The candidate will display a confidence and ability throughout the whole test which leads the examiner to consider that, if afforded the opportunity, the candidate has the potential with the basics already in place to do well on a police advanced course. The candidate's performance must be consistent throughout the whole of the test and so any lapses may result in a lower grade. Awards of this grade will therefore be reserved for the very best riders.

    Silver
    This grade will be awarded to riders who are well above the average. These riders will produce consistently safe and systematic rides but perhaps without the final polish, flair and smoothness of the Gold riders. They will demonstrate a thorough knowledge of the system of motorcycle control. Candidates must be able to ride up to the permitted speed limit where it is safe to do so but vary speed according to circumstances and conditions. It must be emphasised that silver is an extremely high grade and a commendable achievement.

    Bronze
    This grade will be awarded to riders whose performance is significantly above the standard required to pass the 'L' riding test. These riders will show a basic knowledge of Motorcycle Roadcraft but lack the ability to apply the system consistently throughout the test. The ride should be entirely safe, observing traffic signs, responding correctly to hazards and should display advanced riding techniques.

    Candidates who fall below the minimum pass will be classified as 'fail'.

    Once you have passed your test, you will be required to maintain your standard of riding by taking a re-test every three years, this is free to Members. When your retest is due we will send you a reminder and booking form. You must take your retest within a reasonable time of the due date in order to keep your Membership.
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    Motor biking is not the cheapest hobby, you have to pay for:
    -insurance
    -road tax (£35-£75)
    - petrol (140p a litre, normally 50mpg for me)
    - plus the maintenance (new tyres front and back £250, chain and sprockets £120, chain lube £10, oil £20, oil filter £8, spark plugs £8 ish each

    If you can fix bikes yourself, such as using a Haynes manual, it will work out cheaper. Good equipment lasts years, so it pays to invest if you are planning to bike long term. If you get a faired bike and you crash it, it’s going to cost a lot.

    Maintenance


    While you can't carry out an MOT on your bike, if your bike is past the manufacturer’s warranty you may find that working on your bike yourself will save you a fair bit, especially as a basic service may cost over £100, and all it normally includes will be:

    - Check operation of all Bulbs- turn on all your lights and check they work
    -Chain Tension Adjustment and Lubrication- read your service manual, you will be told the chain needs between 2.5 to 3.5cm of slack, if it is too loose, find the tightest bit, loosen the rear wheel, tighten it until it is right, tighten everything back up and lube it. Or get a scotoiler.
    Check front and rear drive sprockets - These should get replaced when the chain does, about every 10,000 or so miles, or more depending on how well you care for your chain.

    Oil and Filter Change - Check the level of your oil, it should be between the max and min on your bike, check either the dipstick or the window, if it is low top it up! No oil and you will destroy you engine. check this before each ride . To change the oil, run the bike so it is warm, stand it upright, place a container under the sump plug, undo the sump plug and allow to drain. Then undo the oil filter and hand screw the replacement in, only hand tighten. Place the sump plug back in (tighten properly) and then refill with oil, don't over fill!
    Check and adjust tyre pressures - low tyre pressure will affect handling, and can cause you to crash, as well as reduce mpg. It should say on the swing arm the optimum pressure, but you may find you prefer it slightly differently, check weekly!
    -Check all brake pads - have a look, can you still see the brake pad?
    Check and top up brake fluid levels - As brake fluid gets old it goes darker and should be replaced every couple of years, but if the level drops it is a good indication that you may need to replace your brake pads!
    Check steering bearings - bike on centre stand and move the handle bars one way to the other, if it feels notchy, then they may need to be replaced
    Check rear linkage bearings - First off set your bike on a stand and remove the rear tyre. Try to move the swing arm from side to side(opposite way it pivots normally) if u get any play even the smallest then the swing arm bearings are bad and need replaced.
    Adjust and lubrication of all cables
    Check tightness of vital nuts and bolts
    Check suspension operation
    - when you are riding are you thrown everywhere when you hit a bump, do you feel every bump
    Check the Charging rate of the battery using a multi-meter.
    Change the spark plugs remove spark plug gap, unscrew, replace, and put cap back on for each.

    If you don't know what you are doing, a Haynes Manual or the bikes service manual should help. The Haynes has pictures and step by step instructions; it is probably the best £15 i ever spent.

    Basic tools needed?
    Battery charger! - For when you leave the lights on, the reg/rec goes, long term storage
    Screwdrivers- Philips and flat heads
    Socket set and ratchets 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 17, and 22 mm
    Spanners, from an 8mm to a 14mm
    Pliers
    Adjustable Spanner
    Hammer
    Feeler gauges to check spark plug gaps
    Spark plug remover (often in the bike toolkit)
    Chain splitter
    Chain Lube
    Brake Fluid
    Oil (check what your bike needs, motorbike NOT car oil!!
    Muc Off to clean it
    Autosol to polish the exhaust
    Paraffin to remove oil
    Penetrating fluid, WD40 or the like
    *NOTE* I am not a trained mechanic, if you are unsure, ask, or just don't do it

    Daily checks
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    Members List
    Bathwiggle(Tribal Queen): 2000 Suzuki SV650s
    MHorman: 1998 Yamaha FZS 600"Fazer"(Red/Black)/2004 Honda CRF230(Red/Black)
    Chilledice
    : Had 2009 Kawasaki Ninja (Green) -Answers to the name Yoshi./ 2005 BMW F650 GS
    LandyJon: 1999 Suzuki SV650s and White Street triple
    Boristhethird: 1988 Honda Bros 400 Fazer
    Lantana: 2007 Suzuki SV650
    Smilingsam: CB125
    Adamski91- Bandit
    Hravan - Yamaha Vity 125
    Juno GN125
    F4LL3N SV650/CBR600F / Blade 954
    Imperial_Maniac: Suzuki SV650
    gbduo:
    2009 Triumph Street Triple 675

    WalkerPassingby -FZ6 S2

    Members without bikes:
    Loz17
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    Darren Hyland

    http://www.google.co.uk/maps/ms?ie=U...266fcb3de1239a

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    IN!

    Need to get the chain/sprocket replaced on my bike.

    They're completely fubar'd tbh.
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    This was very clever of me!
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    The chain and sprocket I have are in really good condition tbh, I just need a bike to go around them :lol:
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    (Original post by Bathwiggle)
    This was very clever of me!

    I was impressed that you could copy them exactly.

    (Original post by Maccees)
    The chain and sprocket I have are in really good condition tbh, I just need a bike to go around them :lol:
    What's up with your bike?



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    (Original post by Motorbiker)
    I was impressed that you could copy them exactly.
    Hehe.

    I've just had 7 people watching me play with the sv. the fan doesn't seem to be working and need the volt meter to try and work it out.
    I've come n to get away from them
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    (Original post by Motorbiker)
    What's up with your bike?
    Well it was made in China and it's basically gone downhill from there :lol:

    Bought it for £400 though and once I get round to stripping it I should get that (possibly a bit more) back. Lost my p/t job a few months ago though so I can't afford to run a car and a bike atm. Once I get a new one I'll be getting something else hopefully.
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    Ugsy had a new chain and sprokcet recently
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    Xt350 was way expensive, silly man isn't going to sell it for 1200 quid.


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    (Original post by Imperial_Maniac)
    Varadero 125's are lovely, but their bigger brothers...I hate with a fiery passion.

    This is only because I used to have to push the buggers about and they're like a bus- you'd be screwed if you dropped one.
    I've just been out on my XL125 tonight - did about 30 miles.

    I wouldn't be worried about getting a big one back up. Picking any big bike up on your own is pretty easy it's just the damage that'll make you cringe!

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    (Original post by Motorbiker)
    A 125cc bike would do the job well tbh and be quicker than public transport. Can filter through the traffic nicely.

    I would get a 125cc bike atm and then pass your bigger test when you can and then when you feel the need to upgrade then go for it.

    I commute to university with a mix between motorbike and bicycle and it's quite good. Can normally park for free in a lot of places.

    Also, i need to go make Mk 4 at some point.

    Quoting this from the other thread xD
    I was thinking about that, but I thought again. Right now I'm in no hurry to buy a bike, so if I do buy one it'll be by the end of this year/early 2014 and I'll be a few months away from turning 19 so I might as well just get a bigger bike and restrict it.

    I've been curious though, where do you put your helmet? and how do you go to uni with full motorcycle gear on?
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    (Original post by Islam Hamza)
    Quoting this from the other thread xD
    I was thinking about that, but I thought again. Right now I'm in no hurry to buy a bike, so if I do buy one it'll be by the end of this year/early 2014 and I'll be a few months away from turning 19 so I might as well just get a bigger bike and restrict it.

    I've been curious though, where do you put your helmet? and how do you go to uni with full motorcycle gear on?
    True but if you do a cbt today you could be riding your 125 this afternoon.

    My helmet goes in my topbox on my bike, my jacket fits in there as well. Then I have my reinforced jeans and boys on when walking around. And if you don't want an ugly topbox then use a locker.



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    (Original post by Islam Hamza)
    Quoting this from the other thread xD
    I was thinking about that, but I thought again. Right now I'm in no hurry to buy a bike, so if I do buy one it'll be by the end of this year/early 2014 and I'll be a few months away from turning 19 so I might as well just get a bigger bike and restrict it.

    I've been curious though, where do you put your helmet? and how do you go to uni with full motorcycle gear on?
    i just wore draggin jeans and a bike jacket, jacket i carried and helmet i locked to the helmet lock on the bikke. Boots i just wore hiking boots
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    Hi all, how do I go about joining?

    I've got a Triumph Tiger 800, been riding about 5 years now.
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    (Original post by ScottScott)
    Hi all, how do I go about joining?

    I've got a Triumph Tiger 800, been riding about 5 years now.
    http://www.thestudentroom.co.uk/group.php?groupid=330

    Then poke martin about adding you. He normally forgets. Any pics of your Tiger?
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    Excellent, I have done that!

    Certainly do!

    Had her for about 2 years now.

    Name:  upload1.jpg
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    Name:  upload2.jpg
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    'Tis the black one.
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    (Original post by Bathwiggle)
    i just wore draggin jeans and a bike jacket, jacket i carried and helmet i locked to the helmet lock on the bikke. Boots i just wore hiking boots
    They've gone up a lot lately.
    I bought my Kevlar lined RST jeans 2 years ago for 60 quid when such things weren't very popular. Same shop asking nearly £150 for them now!
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    Yeh, I noticed the vast increase in price.
    I have seen some cheaper ones around but Draggin Jeans do seem to command a higher price.
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    Is 12,000 a lot of miles for a 50cc bike?

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